New 3500 project

R

Rickyp6

New Member
I have purchased a 3500 recently as an abandoned project from a well known auction

The trouble I have is the edelbrock carb has not been finished, I need to figure out how the throttle cable linkage connects up and the kick down cable, is it worth buying a kit?

Also I cannot get it to run, it speak but just about turns over and stops, today I noticed the leads were not on the correct firing order so changed them round bur this has achieved nothing, it has a power spark distributor, this was loose which makes me think there may have been a timing issue

Anyone any thoughts, I’ll post some pictures
 

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The caps aren't on the carb rods, that won't help.

See where the rotor arm is pointing when No. 1 cylinder is on it's firing stroke.

Did the owner not give you any idea as to why it doesn't start?
 
I bought it as a non runner from auction so no owner details,

I’ve put the little tabs over the rods now, I’ll get a timing lamp to try, its almost firing up and I’m now getting a few puffs and back fires before the battery gives up
 
Cranking it over and over until the battery dies, is never a good idea.

How much do you know about these engines?

What have you done so far to get it to start?
 
If the starter/battery is giving up easily then check and clean the engine earth straps, you may find it's earthing through the handbrake cable.
 
quattro said:
Cranking it over and over until the battery dies, is never a good idea.

How much do you know about these engines?

What have you done so far to get it to start?
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Someone has spent a lot on this car, I can see the engine looks like it’s been rebuilt and a recon gearbox, all mechanical parts look like they are new throughout the car,

I have connect the choke cable, checked firing order which was wrong according going off where leads ran off the cap, did an oil change, checked wiring to and from coil and there is a spark, dizzy bracket is loose so like someone’s got so far and been just about to connect the throttle linkage and get it running, hence checking timing etc

I’ve had a few p6b in various engines but never actually had to do too much mechanically just bodywork and simple things, because this has been modified Haynes manual is not a great help,
 
Small development tonight, after looking into the distributor more, when the timing marks are at tdc, the rotor arm is sitting at cylinder 3 roughly, top of the dizzy cap, so it appears to be a quarter turn out, anyone fitted a power spark distributor?

I can’t turn it enough without the coil connector fouling a water pipe inbetween the engine and dizzy
 
The quick easy way is to move the leads round to a suitable position on the cap. The proper way is to take the dist out and turn the oil pump shaft round to the right position and replace the dist with the rotor arm in the correct position bearing mind that it will rotate as the gear engages, this may take a few goes to get it to seat back down.
 
"earthing through the handbrake cable" - thats a Mini fault isnt it? Did that once!
 
Rickyp6 said:
Small development tonight, after looking into the distributor more, when the timing marks are at tdc, the rotor arm is sitting at cylinder 3 roughly, top of the dizzy cap, so it appears to be a quarter turn out, anyone fitted a power spark distributor?
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Yeah, you really need to get that dizzy sorted before going any further.

I haven't messed with a distributor for a while but I would do this - I am sure someone will step in if I miss anything :)

Mark the position of the No.1 plug lead on the housing, then remove the dist cap. Turn the engine (Ignition off) until the timing marks are at around 6°BTDC, then remove the O/S rocker cover and move the engine back and forward. The valves on No, 6 cylinder should be rocking. If not, turn the engine a full 360° and try again. This will put the engine at No. 1 firing stroke.

Now turn the dist slowly until the points just start to open and the rotor arm is pointing directly at your mark on the housing. If that works, tighten the clamp bolt and you're good to go. If not, take a picture and post it here.

As you're in there, check the cap for tracking, it may look like someone had drawn a line with a pencil, or light burn marks. Check the contacts in the cap are clean, check the rotor arm is sat correctly, and the centre point and end are both clean. Check the points are clean and set to the correct gap, check the earth wire is connected and the screws are tight.

If that doesn't work take one of the plugs out and spin her over, to check you have a nice fat blue spark.


Richard
 
Image of water pipe, the dizzy is electric ignition

I think it’s a fuel issue now after getting the tdc and firing order correct, the carb is set differently on just about every picture I am looking at, breather hoses different, throttle linkage different

I get a spark no problem

Also I have put fresh fuel in, the fuel was a off brown colour and didn’t smell like petrol anymore
 

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I would get the dizzy right first.

The first thing you need to do with the carb is to push the fuel pipe on better and get a decent clip on it, you really don't want that coming off of there.
 
Had it running earlier,

I need to get the throttle linkage sorted properly, I jammed open the throttle fully and it fired up, I also attached the breather hose to the front of the carb,

timing is spot on now,

There’s a few hoses and clips needing fitted correctly, I just need to make sure everything’s running etc then finally nip everything together
 
Rickyp6 said:
I also attached the breather hose to the front of the carb,
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The PCV port at the front is designed for use with a PCV valve, not for connecting straight to the breather hoses.

How is the throttle cable connected up? Does it actually work? and is that rose jointed rod for the kickdown?
 
quattro said:
The PCV port at the front is designed for use with a PCV valve, not for connecting straight to the breather hoses.

How is the throttle cable connected up? Does it actually work? and is that rose jointed rod for the kickdown?
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I have connected the breather up to the front of the carb which has a pcv valve in between, I either take this away and join up the 2 breathers if better

I had the engine running earlier, I have made a set up as shown on here just needs a stronger L bracket and rod adjustments so pedal travel is better

Can I connect the kick down cable to the same part where the throttle is now joined? I know this will require more custom bracket etc or if anyone has a simpler method

Also noticed none of the gauges work which will be another task
 
Rickyp6 said:
I have connected the breather up to the front of the carb which has a pcv valve in between, I either take this away and join up the 2 breathers if better

I had the engine running earlier, I have made a set up as shown on here just needs a stronger L bracket and rod adjustments so pedal travel is better

Can I connect the kick down cable to the same part where the throttle is now joined? I know this will require more custom bracket etc or if anyone has a simpler method

Also noticed none of the gauges work which will be another task
Click to expand...

BIB, Try earthing the sender wires of the fuel and/or temp senders, if the gauge doesn't respond then check the voltage stabiliser.
 
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