My Rover

IAmTheResurrection said:
ghce said:
Just think if there had been an indian factory we would have had curry as well :roll:

Curry as a word was invented by the British... as was the chicken tikka masala. You go into a restaurant in India and ask for a chicken tikka masala curry and chances are they'll look at you like you've got two heads. I've never been, though, so can't say definitively...

Anglo Indians (which is a proper class category... also invented by the English :roll: ) would know what you meant though.

Forget curries, go and find a place that makes proper Karti Rolls - mouth wateringly delicious...
Top it off with a Russa Goulah (I forget how to spell it) or a Gulab Jami. Fantastic.
Unfortunately I can only make Paratahs but my future mother in law and partner are awesome cooks.

/offtopic conversation about my love of Indian food.
 
Saffron was actually a Triumph colour that was applied to only a handful of Rovers, mine being one of them. Only the New Zealand assembled Rovers received this colour, and I expect the same applies to Tumeric. Paprika on the other hand was a U.K colour.

Saffron, the World's most expensive spice.
Ron.
 
I have heard the saffron colour discribed in some colourful ways, perhaps the most colourful related to the colour of babies nappies :mrgreen:

graeme
 
What would be the point in that ? A P6 that overheats , buckles its heads and stretches it's timing chains?
OK ,so a Stag's problems can be overcome but spend the same money on a Rover V8 and you'd have something worthwhile
 
DaveHerns said:
What would be the point in that ? A P6 that overheats, buckles its heads and stretches it's timing chains?
OK ,so a Stag's problems can be overcome but spend the same money on a Rover V8 and you'd have something worthwhile

As you rightly say, the Stag V8's problems can all be overcome, at a certain cost. The reason I say I'd like one in a P6 is because, quite simply and very superficially, I love the noise it makes, that tearing-calico howl at high revs. There's nothing else quite like it. One day I'm going to have a Magenta Stag too... dream on... Incidentally, something else it seems we agree on - you've got a current-generation Citroen C5? I do like them...

EDIT: Oops! Just remembered Chris York had politely requested that I not post further for some time...
 
Anyway, back on topic. It's great to see some pictures of your car Ron. You mentioned preventative maintenance earlier and I know you did the rear wheel bearings recently, but what's next on the list?
 
testrider wrote,...
Anyway, back on topic. It's great to see some pictures of your car Ron. You mentioned preventative maintenance earlier and I know you did the rear wheel bearings recently, but what's next on the list?

Thanks Paul for putting the topic back on track, much appreciated.

Next on the list is an oil and filter change, which I'll likely do either today or tomorrow. I grease the tailshaft sliding joint along with the two universal joints around every 2000 miles, so I'll also be doing these in the next few days. I appreciate that the book says every 6000 miles for the sliding joint, but I feel that you can't grease them too much, plus my tailshaft will spin past a quarter of a million miles at some point this year, so I feel it has deserved a bit of pampering.

I do need to remove the driver's door trip so as to access the winder mechanism, as on occasions it feels a little stiff. By the sound and feel of it, a new application of grease will see it right.. :wink: I'll take some pics when I do so.

All the best,
Ron.
 
That's the only way to look after a car, in my view, Ron! Start with the manufactureers service schedule but modify it (ie add to it) according to your own knowledge and experience!

I presume the oil and filter change is at 3,000 / 6 months? How heavily do you grease the UJ's? I was taught that if you overdid it the needles didn't have enough room to move about, so then they overheated the grease, it ran out and then the bearings failed - as per roller bearings such as wheel bearings. What do you think?

For the UK you can also add quite a bit of body maintenance! Apart from the obvious one of keeping the paint well polished for protection, I'd recommend a thorough underneath, and particularely up into the rear wheelarches, pressure wash. Also a periodic - annual or biennial - wings off to check on the underseal and the splash rubbers.

Chris
 
I must admit that I've never greased the sliding joint on my propshaft Ron. I've done about 14000 of the 46000 miles on the car so it's probably well over due.

Do you grease the driveshaft UJ's at the same time?
 
I tend to do the tailshaft sliding joint at the 6K service along with the gearbox and diff oil (engine oil and filter at 3K). I'll be adding the driveshaft UJs to that list now that they've been replaced. Last time I had the propshaft off to do the front UJ the sliding joint looked well greased.

Personal preference within the bounds of the official service schedule as Chris says.

Dave
 
Hello Chris,

With my original 3.5 litre engine, I would typically change the oil and filter every 2000 to 2500 miles. This would always be covered in less than 6 months, so I would not normally monitor the time frame. With my 4.6 litre engine I am doing the changes at no more than 2000 miles which is likely too premature for many, but look inside my engine now with 40,000 miles covered since June 2007 and it still looks brand new..all bright and silver and no brown stains or grit in sight.

With the uni joints Chris, I grease them till the old grease purges from the seals. I did the same with the last pair of tailshaft uni joints which were removed in 2007 after 155,000 miles and 21 years of service. The original OEM sealed units lasted 12 years and just on 51,000 miles.

Ron.

P.S : Hello Paul, just saw your post... :) Yes I do...grease the uni joints at the same time as the sliding joint. I have two grease guns for these, one filled with Castol LM for the sliding joint, the other filled with Castrol EPL-2 for the uni joints. Both my half shafts have sealed GKN Spicer units that need no attention.
 
I know you can overgrease wheel bearings but surely there's less movement in a propshaft UJ to overheat the grease ?
 
Over on Geoff's thread, the discussion turned to extractors and exhaust systems. So to continue with the discussion here I'll post again what I wrote there.

"Hello Chris,

In Australia, the term extractors actually applies to both the 4-1 and the 4-2-1 designs. To further differentiate, tri-y applies to 4-2-1, so tri-y extractors as opposed to extractors.

I did a fair amount of investigating prior to choosing to stay with the cast manifolds. I looked at both 3.5 and 3.9 Range Rover manifolds, which by their design are a 4-2-1 system. Both sides are distinct as tri-y systems usually are, but this presented a problem as there is insufficient space to fit from memory the n/s. So I would need to buy two pairs and use what would normally be the o/s on both sides. I would then have 4 X 1.5" down pipes to contend with. Rather than joining all 4 into one large 3" pipe at the transmission, I'd probably have opted for joining directly beneath the manifolds and then running two 1 5/8" pipes into a 2 1/4" or so main pipe. I also looked at 4.6 factory manifolds but their design ruled out fitment all together. I measured the ports, both entry and exit for Range Rover 3.5, 3.9 and 4.6 litre factory manifolds and compared to the P6 manifolds. Surprisingly, the P6 manifolds have the largest entry ports, but the smallest exit ports at 1 1/2". The 3.5 and 3.9 have two 1 1/2" exits per manifold and the 4.6 have a single 2 1/4" exit.

If I opted for a custom 4-2-1 system, I would have chosen 1 1/2" primaries, 1 5/8" secondaries and a 2" collector feeding both sides into a 2 1/4" main pipe.

As it stands I kept the P6 factory manifolds with their 1 1/2" down pipes feeding into a 2" main pipe which increases to 2 1/4" then 2 1/2" and finally 3" before exiting. Sound wise it is bl**dy loud when revved, goodness knows how much louder it would have been with a custom set of pipes too.

Ron"

Now to continue the discussion with new material.....

I can’t say how much of a loss the standard cast iron P6B manifolds may have cost me compared to a set of extractors, but what I can say is that with everything set as it is now, high flow air cleaners, needles polished, timing advanced, large bore exhaust system with flow through muffler and resonator in place, the dyno run would tell all.

At the time my 4.6 had only seen 2500 miles (4000km), so it might be fair to say that if a repeat was undertaken, the likely hood is a further improvement given the engine was still quite tight at the time.

The dyno run showed 142 Horsepower being delivered to the rear wheels @4750rpm. My engine is built as a Range Rover engine with the emphasis on torque, so in that regard was most impressed.

Working backwards to estimate engine power, transmission losses of 17% are pretty normal for an auto transmission, especially one without a lock up torque converter. So that delivers 171 Horsepower to the flywheel. Power loss from all the ancillaries is in the order of 33 Horsepower, so gross engine output is in the order of 204 Horsepower which is as would be expected from such an engine, and in line with similar Thor engines as fitted into Range Rovers.

So on the face of it, the cast iron manifolds don’t do too badly. I expect that my exhaust system after that may have helped quite a bit.

F1000025.jpg


Ron
 
Well I carried out some routine maintenance today. The weather was perfect for a Winter's day, no wind to speak of, blue sky and 18 degrees C..perfect. So naturally, I was under the Rover! I had covered just over 2000 miles since I last greased the tailshaft uni joints, so along with the sliding joint it was time for some grease.. :)

Then it was spark plug time with just over 12,000 miles covered since I fitted them last November. So out they came and in with a new set, leaving the gaps this time at 29 thou which is how the new ones came. I have been thinking of trying a slightly wider gap for a while, so I'll see how it goes. From my understanding, the higher the compression, the smaller the gap needs to be, or the higher the engine revs, the smaller the gap needs to be. Most Range Rovers with the Rover V8 engine run with an initial gap of 32 thou, so nothing like an experiment... :wink:

P6260193.jpg

R/H cylinder head with spark plugs removed.

P6260196.jpg

I apply a little anti seize to the threads. Apparently, the use of such is quite contraversial, some are fully in favour, others totally against. I used to use graphite grease on plug threads with my original 3.5 but decided to use anti seize with the 4.6.

This tube I have had for 20 years or so. Perfect for water pump bolts and all engine bolts. Never had a bolt that would not undo once this has been applied.

Ron.
 
My understanding is that the higher the compression, the more dificult it is for the spark to jump the gap, that's why you can have a good spark with a splug out of the engine, and then get no spark with the plug fitted and under load.

On the flip side you generally want the biggest gap you can get away with, to give a bigger spark to ignite weaker mixtures to aid fuel economy.

That's why you end up with electronic ignition so you can have very powerfull coils and get really big sparks in all conditions.

That's the way I see it anyway :LOL:
 
The higher the compression and the weaker the mixture the harder it is to ignite
Yet modern cars with the above run with bigger plug gaps
I'm tempted to suggest you need the biggest gap your ignition system can cope with
 
Next on my list of on going maintenance was the replacement of the front shock rubbers.

These bushes look a little tired...
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P7010207.jpg


P7010209.jpg


Using the tool that my Dad made in 1978 after he purchased the Rover...
P7010210.jpg


They could have gone for longer, but might as well replace them.
P7010211.jpg


P7010213.jpg


Top and bottom rubbers fitted..
P7010215.jpg


Compress rubbers
P7010216.jpg


Fit split pin. Reused the existing one as it is still ok.
P7010217.jpg


All done on the O/S, now repeat on the N/S.
P7010218.jpg


P7010219.jpg


I'll have to give this all a clean too, looks rather grubby.

Ron.
 
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