My non Rover passion

gstefos2000

New Member
Following my Rover project

Greek S1 tc (Long project)

This is my non Rover passion.

My long involvement in automotive restorations and modifications started with my father’s 1954 Ford Anglia 100E when I was still a child. My grandfather had some lories and a pre ww2 Buick that I never saw. Having a parent as a teacher is very useful especially when he has always right, but it took me ages to stand over his shadow as a mechanic. I first became an electrician, a territory that was not so familiar to him. My first love was a military Fordson W.O.T.2 which was abandoned in a field. As a high school student, I needed his support but I couldn’t persuade him for the necessity to restore it. It remained an unfulfilled dream.

Years later when I was studying to become mechanical engineer, I bought my first Dodge M37 (the closest thing to the W.O.T. I could find), with the intention to build a multipurpose agricultural truck. It is now highly modified, powered by a low rev and high completion 4cyl diesel Mercedes OM314. Among others its brake system is improved and there is a P.T.O. shaft present. It is also obvious that it lacks style.
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When most mechanical problems were solved I tried to improve the look of it. Anyway, I failed to get license for a limited production. This was my last and only attempt to correlate job and hobby. From that point I decided to build things only for my pleasure.
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This is me driving through Pindos mountains.
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Diesel M37 was reliable and fun to drive, even in the hardest conditions. As the years went by, originality became an issue too. So when the Greek army started to sell off all M-series trucks, I bought a top condition gasser, loaded with all possible goodies.
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The preceded M151 belongs to a friend.
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Later I and my family started to attend some local events (river parties). It was obvious that we needed something bigger to use as a shelter for kids while crossing into the wild.
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This is a 1951 M35, converted from gasser to diesel by the Greek army.
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At the same time I came across a V17A MTQ, presumed to be the only one still existing in Europe. It was complete and its stuck engine needed only a new liner and piston. (And an overhaul of brake system, fuel system, electric …….etc) Who could resist letting it join the bunch? Now it is fully operational.
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At some point we arranged a crossing trough Araxthos river. Having so many winches this could be done with safety.
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If you think that I went over the limits, look what competition has done. One of my friends restores and flies a helicopter.
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There is a military S280 shelter that can be loaded on the M35 bed. The combination makes a great camper. Since I don’t own one yet, I made a Frankenstein alternative and drove it to Basilitha Snow Park. The altitude is almost 2000m and it is freezing out there. During the night temperature dropped to - 18 Celsius.
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On the same trip at sea level, temperature was 30 degree higher.
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DSCN3855.jpg This Jeep is one of my experimental vehicles. Every year I was releasing a new edition. (Currently more than Microsoft windows) It has a Mahindra diesel engine, same as Ford Sierra and Peugeot 504 diesel. I designed a new steering system, hence most of the new editions. I also designed a much improved brake system. It’s definitely my biggest failure. I consumed so much effort for so little results. This is where I chose to develop my galvanizing methods.

It has an all original sibling too. Both are stripped down at the same time.
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The one with the diesel engine
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and the original M38A1.
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This is one of the two galvanized chassis. Obviously I was inspired by the same process initially applied on Land Rovers. It was a very easy job because this is mostly an open structure and designing zing drainage is simple. But there are 4 specific suspension holes that there is no thread tap to clear them. So I inserted silicone and zing didn’t cover them. (Silicon withstands for some time on 435 degree Celsius) There wasn’t any evidence of heat distortion.

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Some detail picturesSep28182.JPG

I use a light pass with an inox polishing disc. This removes zing dirt and burry spots. The protective film is much thicker than the removed material.

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The method isn’t faultless. Red rust shown in the picture is the result of poor neutralizing before the last dipping. I have a small sandblasting gun for this purpose. It doesn’t eliminate the problem to the root but cathodic protection in conjunction with paint does.
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On the other hand fuel tanks are extremely difficult to be done correctly. Watch the small drain holes. They are going to be covered with copper patches, soldered with tin rods. (Not all holes) Bath surface must be clean from floating dirt before emersion. If this dirt enters the tank, as it is loosely bonded with zing film, it soon clogs fuel filters. Grinding the inside dirt isn’t always possible because the diaphragms prevent access. If the job is done correctly the tank lasts for ages. I had a great advantage because I could do this job entirely by my own at the company I was working. Note that special care must be taken to prepare a metal fuel tank to accept heat or flame in order to avoid an unwanted space travel.

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Bodies are repaired, sandblasted and galvanized.
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All panels are ready.Dec26223.JPG

Now expensive and specific for zing epoxy primer and also epoxy color are needed. The result pays you back.
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This is the most neglected body shell ever. The wrinkles were present before heat distortion. After the hot bath emersion, diagonal bolting points were misaligned by an inch or so. Using long bolts on chassis, pulled the flexible body into place and cured the problem. This is not acceptable on a Rover base unit so this process is out of the question for the P6. On the contrary on a Jeep, the finished look is not so bad. It gives the impression of a Korean War survivor. Dec26226.JPG

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Some details. Due to surface tension, it is guaranteed that an adequate film of zing will build up on any clean and well prepared steel surface. A deep seam penetration is also anticipated. On the other hand oil and paint destroys this film and the remaining of cleaning acids rapidly dissolves zing and corrodes metal. In a period of 15 years there was only one spot with many overlaps that kept acid and developed a small problem which was easily fixed. Dec26235.JPG

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Assembly has started. Body is primed and painted at the same time.
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The M38A1 in the back is left to be finished later.Dec26247.JPG

Adding brake and fuel parts.
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And the reconditioned radiator
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Some wrinkles are acceptable on the Jeep but Rover’s quarter panel is a big failure.
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Thanks, that makes very interesting reading. I have restored a Land Rover 109 and also went down the route of galvanising all the parts that I could. As I live near the sea in damp North Wales, any protection from corrosion is welcome. So far the parts of the P6 I've successfully had done are the sill covers, DeDion elbows and lower links, engine mounts, towbar, bumper brackets, number plate bracket (one warped too much) brake protectors and a few assorted oddments.
After blasting, as sent for galvanising:
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Galvanised:
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I don't know, I just drop off at Mona F&T (local steel company) who act as agents and collect a couple of days later. I suspect it goes somewhere in the Liverpool area. Blasting is done at another place. In between, I take the parts home for any small repairs and to clean off any remaining blasting medium. The latter is important and something I didn't do on my first batch which resulted in a few small pockets not taking the zinc.
 
Thanks to all. I am glad you like it.

Oldbloke
Transmission PTO conversion is easy on a M37. There is a factory output shaft which drives the winch.
You simply have to redirect it.
Making ice cream this way at a show would be a great attraction.



Willy Eckerslyke
This is a very nice job. I am sure the additional effort to inspect and clean after sandblast, paid an important role to the finished product. Assembly will be a joy.
I date to suggest you to powder coat some parts like DeDion elbows and bumper brackets. This way you avoid expensive primer and end up with a highly rust resistant result. Of course some exterior parts need to be painted conventionally to match car colour and be able to be repainted easily.
I guarantee that P6 front and rear valances and outer sill covers can be galvanized without warping.
I had success with a rear decker panel too.
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Rear quarter panel was a failure. I don’t dare to try on wings and door frames yet. The factory I was working is now closed so I send my parts to a fine galvanizer in Athens. This way I lost control over the process and I can’t design improvements.

George
 
Right... you are deep into all that american iron! :eek:

But i am not jealous. ;)
As a kid i inhaled a lot of fumes from various 2286 cc 4 pot petrol, so i am addicted for the rest of my life. :D
 
Demetris

You remind me my expatriate friend Spyros. Among others he owns a 2.25 petrol 109 with capstan winch and a fine collection of Ford tractors. He inhaled so many British fumes that he deserves the title of sir. I am teasing him with Lucas jokes.

American iron can’t replace the excitement and memories brought to mind by the smell of an old British car interior.

George
 
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