My mean green hornet

Working on strengthening the rear strut mounts today. This is part 1, boxing the factory mount in. Next I’ll work my way up onto the chassis rail and tie a few other areas in.


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More to follow soon

Jim
 
Jim, that looks strong. We do think that the wheel is moving rear ward during braking when using uprated rubber, and also the racer had a wishbone mounting failure in the early days, but I do not know which mount failed, the strut or main arm.
So what you are doing should combat the issue of strut weakness. If the main arm is able to flex I cannot see there being a problem with it.

My next task will be to source a spherical bearing for the strut rod to better support the inboard end.
It is a pleasure following your journey.

M
 
Thanks Mark, likewise!

Part 2. The left gusset ties together the mount, chassis rail and bulkhead

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Jim
 
A slight return to the front mounts today. I’d been meaning to sort out some spacer tubes to further reinforce and make neat and functional for assembly/disassembly.
This is seamless mechanical tubing with a nice satisfying fit for 19mm or 3/4 socket (I’m using larger 1/2” unf bolts with my new joints) Not much room for error on setup and welding but I’ll make it work.
The tubes will be welded to the factory metal first, new plate then slid over and welded into position.

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Jim
 
Darting around a bit today. I came across the car’s ARB mounts looking for something else, and with the bellcrank casting already on my bench it seemed the perfect time to do what I’d been planning for years.
Upgrade from 5/16 to 3/8 UNF bolts. Ignore the bolt length, they’re the only 3/8 I had in stock.
I shall likely use socket caphead bolts so that the head doesn’t sit proud.

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Jim
 
Do you mean in order to use a cap head and have it flush you will mill a recess into the cap ? Is there enough meat for that ? looks pretty close to the edge to me.
 
No, sorry that wasn't very clear. A 3/8 hex head being 9/16 AF would not be fully within the dimensions, the corners would protrude over the edges slightly looking from above, or below as it would be..I think the tensile area for clamping would be ok but I'd prefer a fitting to not overhang if you know what I mean?
 
I know it’s a trivial thing but the devil is in the detail. I feel much happier with the fitment of these. I am aware of the potential problems with 12.9 grade fasteners and bzp, but they are from a reputable company (Margnors) and thought in this application nothing too dramatic would happen if one did end up breaking (highly unlikely I think)

When I come to final assembly I’ll use a light loctite on them.

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No real progress today unfortunately, lots of distractions!

Jim
 
Chassis Rail repair.
I cut and flanged a panel to sort the rust in the outer pressing of the chassis rail.

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But to be able to properly plug weld to the inner pressing on the flange, that also needed a small repair, which I extended as the steel was fairly pitted nearby.

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And then the wire ran out so marks the end of the fun for today

Jim
 
Still no mig wire delivery unfortunately, but I did receive this seamless CDS for my adjustable lower arms. 1.1/4”x1/8” wall (31.75mm x 3mm wall) nice and chunky for the 3/4” joints etc

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Jim
 
It’s from McGill motorsport, ordered a couple to see quality and fit as they’re only £4 each delivered in 3/4 size.
They’re perfect for the job and plenty of material to mill a couple of flats into for a spanner should I decide to.

I’ve used their other tube adapters before but only the cylindrical type without taper that go fully inside tubing. These are much better

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I did have plans to make adjusters from solid bar stock on the lathe but this will be quicker and easier, especially for the LH and RH threads
 
Yes still welding a RH and LH one into a length of tube to form a female turnbuckle.
QA1 do these nice weld on hex tube fittings which slip over tubing, I might machine out an m30 nut and do similar instead of milling flats in the threaded bungs..I’ll decide once I’ve settled on tube length

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If I was making the threaded bungs I’d do them similar to these I think

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But what I was getting at was making the whole turnbuckle from solid bar on the lathe, but no point when the fittings are as cheap and good quality as this!

Jim
 
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