Discussion in 'Members Projects' started by corazon, Jan 22, 2012.
Good going Jim, its going to be a pleasure using that to carry out the build.
I made one for my morris minor convertible, a scaffold pole through the middle and an A frame stand at each end.
worked a treat, used a small block and tackle mounted in the ceiling of the room to safely rotate the frame to any desired position...
materials cost $300, labor free, time about one day of toil...
Ohh and 3 cans of green aerosol spray to make it look pretty
I bought a new one from ebay for £200 designed specifically for the P6B. After redesigning it to actually fit a P6B, I used it to rebuild Sparky, then sold if for £120
It really did make the work a great deal easier, and I mean a great deal.
Here's my NADA on a roll over jig.
Once balanced can rotate with one hand.
Corazon, your man cave looks like a wicked place to work! Well lit, nice big door, and now a rollover jig to boot. How I wish I had one of those!
Those fat and sparkly rims in the background will be a good motivation to get that P6 back together now! Crack on, keep the updates coming thick and fast.
It’s already so handy just assessing different areas of the shell that were tricky to see before
I nearly made one but decided to go with a tried and tested design from Lee @ BrightSparksWelding. He advertises on eBay and will copy your bumper irons to make brackets that will actually fit the car. £290 + postage but his are made with much chunkier steel than most on eBay, fully height adjustable.
Plus all the time I’ve been spending on making other tooling recently I thought I really should concentrate my energies on the actual car!
Thanks, my current workshop has completely spoiled me I’ll admit. I’ll be losing it soon as this house is on the market for sale. Luckily I’ve secured another great space as part of where I’ll be living next. It’s a shared barn but the owner has a 4 post ramp which will be mighty useful!
Some daylight shots of the mess I’m cutting out and doing properly, along with any other areas the blasting uncovers..
Much of the sills was done very cheaply (as you’ll see) by a friend’s step dad soon after I bought the car 9 years ago. This was to get through MoT and enable me to keep the car on the road, so I’m very grateful he helped me out all those years before I could weld etc.
Having said that, the welds are some of the worst I’ve seen, and it’ll come as no surprise I began to get wet carpets soon after the work was done.
Full length sill panels (inner and base unit) ordered from Wadhams, along with some others to save time such as headlamp splash panels. Everything else I’ll form by hand, shrinker stretcher, bead roller etc.
I can’t wait to see it blasted!
That's some scary welding! Looking forward to seeing your work on it.
That looks like fun, I almost envy you - almost
I was looking at your photo of the heavy duty spring compressor and the 'Porta power ram'. Help me comprehend what I'm looking at!
The horseshoe compressor isn't hydraulic, is it? Is it opened and closed by a threaded nut using an open ended spanner?
You used that hydraulic pump to extend the 'power ram' to lift the swivel pillar so as to partly compress the coil, then held and further compressed the road spring with the horseshoe clamp, which only clamped three coils of the spring but which did the trick?
I have to dismantle my front suspension to replace the rubber bushes on the lever that fits in the front spring cups. I want to get a tool that will fit in the wheel well and grip my 130% uprated and slightly shorter springs really safely.
I'm looking at the compressor in your pic and wondering how the horseshoes grip the slanted coils!?
I welcome your thoughts!
Exactly, the compressor is a heavy duty threaded shaft with one moving jaw block. Nothing hydraulic about it. It comes with removable 'horseshoes' in different sizes. It's a well designed chunky tool, very happy with it.
Each horseshoe has an offset/twist to it so it matches and grips the spring coils correctly as they slant. Hard to describe, instantly clear when you have it in front of you.
Mine was particularly tricky as the shell was fully stripped/no engine weight etc, and I had that damaged bowed spring..
You could use a jack and block of wood instead of the porta power, or indeed just follow Ron's front spring removal thread and use the new compressors without supporting the bellcrank arm.
Once the coils are compressed safely it is just a matter of undoing the the 4 nuts inside the car incrementally until the arm drops far enough to remove the spring.
You may well be able to catch more coils with your springs, but 3 was ample to compress and decompress safely.
Hope that helps, definitely best to get your head around the task fully before attempting it.
Just be methodical and take your time
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