My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!

Mind you thinking about it, I've ridden a lot of horses that require a very light touch, and others that were bloody hard work.

So horses for courses !

My '65 Mustang with an original Ford 3 finger clutch was so heavy that if I got in a traffic jam my left leg would be trembling with the effort involved. My dear lady refused to drive it. The Rover is no problem.
It is possible that the enquirer has a mismatch of cylinder sizes leading to increased effort at the pedal.
 
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Mind you thinking about it, I've ridden a lot of horses that require a very light touch, and others that were bloody hard work.

I've never ridden a horse and don't intend to start now. Far too unpredictable for me, and no brakes either. When I raced motorbikes people were always telling me how dangerous it was. That was nowhere near as dangerous as riding a horse in my opinion....


It is possible that the enquirer has a mismatch of cylinder sizes leading to increased effort at the pedal.

With any conversion that's a possibility, I've also had pressure plates that take a lot of effort to operate.
 
I don't ride 'em now, I just blow up their noses, its far safer.

Yup the pressure plate can be the key. I know OEM Ford against Centreforce, (multifinger) is a world of difference.
The typical Borg and Beck offering for the Rover should be reasonably OK.
Perhaps someone might know the cylinder sizes. I cannot remember what I used now.

Edit
What I meant was, the cylinder sizes for a P6 manual clutch master and an SD1 slave. I think I used a P6 manual master and a P6 manual slave, and this worked out OK. Perhaps the P6 and SD1 slave is the same ?
 
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Stumow in Clarkston, I'm afraid you're a bit too far away for us to be able to drive each others cars for comparison, I'm down in London.
I've not driven another manual V8 P6 so I've no idea how the clutch should feel. All I can say is mine doesn't feel heavy. I used an upright P6 master and an SD1 slave. I haven't driven many modern cars with a manual so I couldn't really say how my car compares. I recently drove a 2017 Opel Corsa and the pedal was about the same as my Rover. The gear selection had absolutely no feel, if anything it was sloppy, whereas with my LT77 you certainly feel every selection, especially when the gearbox oil is still cold.
 
AFAIK they're the same bore size, but the pipe thread is different, and using the P6B slave with an LT77 needs a 1/4" thick spacer between the slave and the bellhousing.

I got caught out by that

H, you have to get out more. But we are all grateful for your encyclopedic knowledge.
 
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I tried to get him out for some unheated workshop japes tomorrow but he's busy.
Probably in front of the woodburner with his nose in a parts catalogue.

I don't ride 'em now, I just blow up their noses, its far safer.

Does the job require specially-ordered tiny sticks of dynamite or does one simply use off-the-shelf bangers?
 
I tried to get him out for some unheated workshop japes tomorrow but he's busy.
Probably in front of the woodburner with his nose in a parts catalogue.



Does the job require specially-ordered tiny sticks of dynamite or does one simply use off-the-shelf bangers?
A gentle puff is all that is required.

H was only saying the other day how much he was looking forward to going out for breakfast with you..... Today at the local greasy spoon ?
 
A gentle puff is all that is required.

H was only saying the other day how much he was looking forward to going out for breakfast with you..... Today at the local greasy spoon ?

Unfortunately not. I've actually failed to reach workshop pottering nirvana myself today, opting for some household loose-end tying. When l finished work this morning l was tired & it was perishin' cold guv'nor, so l let a few hours sleep take hold of me.
Reprehensible behaviour on my part. :confused:
 
Steering this thread back to matters pertaining to my car after that entertaining digression!
I hope this isn't too silly a question. I would like to know if it is possible to remove the rear overriders (one of the rubber buffers needs replacing) without first having to take the back bumper off the car?
Better yet, is it possible to swap out a rubber buffer without even removing the overrider?
 
I would like to know if it is possible to remove the rear overriders (one of the rubber buffers needs replacing) without first having to take the back bumper off the car?

Yes, if the bolt holding it isn't seized solid.

Better yet, is it possible to swap out a rubber buffer without even removing the overrider?

I doubt it, especially on the rear.
 
I was photographed at the Icebreaker meet at Whitewebbs Motor Museum the other week!
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Nice selection of photos of the cars at the event and the exhibits in the museum here: Guy Valentino's photos from the Icebreaker
 
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It was nice chatting to you, Chalky. Your car is in fabulous condition. I was impressed by the bright LED lighting.
 
Being locked down in London is a good excuse to tinker with my car. I finally swapped out the left rear overrider, from which the cracked and dried out rubber buffer was pulling ever further away from the top, for a spare from my parts stash. That had been bugging me for ages!
Then I smugly went for a drive, and promptly scraped my nearside rear door and the lip of the rear arch against the extra-wide heavy duty rear step bumper of a rakishly parked security van. A few inches of paint cracked and flaked off, down to the metal. The box section bumper on the armoured van was, of course, unblemished!
Turns out the painters used a great deal of filler on my doors! I sanded both damaged areas back to clean shiny metal, and applied two thickly brushed coats of Presto BOB 2 primer. Then I moved round to the offside, where I'd done a similarly silly thing some years ago. I hadn't promptly fixed that scrape, so water has got behind the primer and begun to corrode the metal. Fortunately, what I feared would very possibly be a hole in the wing from the inside turned out to just be exterior surface corrosion, where the paint had cracked and allowed the elements in. I've sanded it back until the rust was removed and applied a brush on rust treatment that turns the shiny steel a purplish blue. It almost looks like Admiralty Blue! Tomorrow I'll apply a thick layer of the grey primer, and move on to sorting out the bottom of the offside rear door... I'm working up the courage to look at where the paint on the offside front wing has bubbled and cracked right at the top behind the sidelight tell-tale. That looks like the hardest shape to fill and sand.
Once I've completed the filling and sanding I'm going to have a go at touching in the repaired areas with the small amount of blue paint I have left over. I'm thinking about brushing it on and polishing it back, rather than spraying, as I don't have a compressor and air brush. How far should I overlap the undamaged paintwork with the new brushed coats, so as to be able to buff it back smooth? How long should I leave the newly applied paint to harden, or cure, or whatever the terminology is, before attempting polishing? Anybody on here got experience at DIY car painting with 2K?
 
Started poking at the back bottom corner of the offside rear door. The paint had been blooming for a few years. I now realise I should have paid attention to this far sooner. Beneath the filler (oh, so much filler) there was a disconcerting amount of corrosion. There now exists a new "speed hole", about the size of a five pence piece, in the outer skin just behind the rearmost drain hole in the inner skin. The one the painters had filled up with body filler. !!! Causing all the rainwater that gets into the door to stay put, and eat through from the inside to the exterior. Nice job, paint dudes. Serves me right for not having looked closer when I hung the freshly painted panels eight years ago. :mad:

rear-offisde-door-holes-01.jpg

rear-offisde-door-holes-02.jpg
 
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