My '72 P6 V8 is back in use on UK roads and once again wearing its silver on black 'K' plates!

Crikey, Ron, that's truly exorbitant. I hope you never need another radiator!
What is a reasonable life expectancy for a car radiator?
Absolutely, what a rip off.

It used to be like 10 years or more with correct coolant/maintenance. These days I am getting nothing like that, 3 years if I am lucky. The radiator man that recored mine just recently said that they should last longer than 3 years and that I might have a stray current issue. Apparently, stray currents can significantly reduce the life of your radiator, specifically the core. He went on to say that if your car has a stray current issue, using an all aluminium alloy radiator will make the situation even worse, with that radiator corroding even more quickly compared to the brass and copper models.

Ron.
 
Absolutely, what a rip off.

It used to be like 10 years or more with correct coolant/maintenance. These days I am getting nothing like that, 3 years if I am lucky. The radiator man that recored mine just recently said that they should last longer than 3 years and that I might have a stray current issue. Apparently, stray currents can significantly reduce the life of your radiator, specifically the core. He went on to say that if your car has a stray current issue, using an all aluminium alloy radiator will make the situation even worse, with that radiator corroding even more quickly compared to the brass and copper models.

Ron.
Is it because they removed lead from the solder and the joints in the radiator are mechanically more brittle and hence vibration and thermal expansion cycles gets them? The new stuff isn't as good working with electronics also. Admittedly it doesn't poison you though...
 
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Electrolytic corrosion? ideally on any cooling system you want to keep dissimilar metals to a minimum, ideally de-ionised water should be used with a good anti freeze. After a while the water should be dead, i.e all the oxygen boiled out and total dissolved solids very low.
With mixed metals, aluminium, steel, copper/brass it will usually be the steel that corrodes,(acts as an anode) so on a V8 that will be those coolant pipes that run under the inlet manifold and the core plugs. Next it will be the aluminium with corrosion around the waterways in the heads and block. The Ph value needs to be neutral around 7 or slightly alkaline 8 or 9, but this depends on the metals that you are dealing with.
As a plumber /heating tech I have to consider this when designing/fault finding central heating systems as these can suffer the same problems.

John
 
With the modern anti corrosion additives we now have at our disposal it should be many many years. Most old cores got bad due to usual lack of corrosion inhibitor and good care. Had mine recored in 2022 by Guildford radiators in Surrey - £300. It’s a box ticked now and cooling wise it all works as it should and expect to not replace again any year soon!

Dave
 
I had my Rover's radiator recored in November. $1400 o_O that's like 700 Pounds. Complete madness. In 2022, the recore cost was $700, a couple of years earlier, $350. So the cost is basically doubling ever 3 years! Here in Australia the companies that make radiator cores have brand new ones for the Rover. If they don't, they make them to order. I have never had a core that wasn't exactly as it should be, dimension wise.
Went with a 2 core for all the reasons explained in my post. After seeing the results, I won't be using a 3 core radiator again.

Ron.
Hi Ron
It is for that reason that I went to eBay and got an aluminium Holden VB-VH 6 cylinder automatic Radiator for $285. Because it has square corners (cf rounded on the original) required small surgery to the support bracket and minor mods to the mounting system and a different lower hose (uniform diameter throughout). Also an extra small pipe in the neck to accommodate the hose from the inlet manifold


MrTask
If I had't had the viscous fan water pump recond before realising the need for the rad, probably would have bought the Holden unit with integrated cowl/shroud and electric fan for about $350 (175 pounds)
No idea what the shipping cost to UK would be, the one I sourced was from a Melbourne based supplier. but as they are made in China you may be able to find one closer to home.
No issue with quality
 
Electrolytic corrosion? ideally on any cooling system you want to keep dissimilar metals to a minimum, ideally de-ionised water should be used with a good anti freeze. After a while the water should be dead, i.e all the oxygen boiled out and total dissolved solids very low.
With mixed metals, aluminium, steel, copper/brass it will usually be the steel that corrodes,(acts as an anode) so on a V8 that will be those coolant pipes that run under the inlet manifold and the core plugs. Next it will be the aluminium with corrosion around the waterways in the heads and block. The Ph value needs to be neutral around 7 or slightly alkaline 8 or 9, but this depends on the metals that you are dealing with.
As a plumber /heating tech I have to consider this when designing/fault finding central heating systems as these can suffer the same problems.

John
Hi John,

The 4.6 litre V8 went in during 2007, and from that time I have used Penrite coolant mixed to a maximum ratio of 50%. The problem is not the coolant, rather there is something else at play. Since 2007, the engine has covered well over 300,000 km with the radiator issue really only starting some 10 years after installation.

Ron.
 
Not so long ago I wrote up how had the front suspension of my car rebuilt with standard bushes in the swing arms, and new poly buffers in the front spring cups. Unfortunately I wasn't able to fit the new shocks I had custom made, having mistakenly ordered the wrong O/D poly bushes and consequently having received shocks with lower eyelets too big to fit the beefed-up threaded lower shock mounting studs. Darn and tarnation!
After subsequently obtaining the right bushes and having the shock eyelets swapped for the correct size, the next task was finding a competent and trustworthy mechanic to fit them.
I don't own a trolley jack. It turned out I'd need three of them, plus two burly fellows pressing down on the inner wings to get the job done!
The chap I had been using was unable to take on any more work, but word of mouth sent me to a discrete row of unmarked lock-ups not at all far from where I live. I met a couple of nice 'old school' car guys, the one of whom does wrenching, the other bodywork and paint. Both Rover owners. Suffice to say fitting the shocks was the expected pain in the proverbial, but now they're on the plague of metallic 'knuckling' noises are finally banished. That took an age to rectify, but I'm so happy I got there in the end. Speed humps used to drive me to distraction, all those awful loud groans and creaks. Gone! At long last. Back to how it performed eleven years ago when I completed my rebuild, and first fitted poly bushes, stiffer shorter springs and adjustable shocks.
The noise was coming from the shocks themselves, so a hat tip to GrimV8 for the diagnosis way back at the beginning of the year, and to the guy in my 'hood who fitted the new replacement shocks and poly bushes, for a great price considering the hassle that turned out to be!
Bushes are by Powerflex, adjustable shocks from GAZ again, set to the middle setting of about twenty clicks between soft and hardest rebound.
Now to attend to the grinding noises from the rear... Diagnosis is "Diff!". Ho hum. Fortunately I have a spare in the garage. I think I'm going to try and get a second opinion, but I can see a diff refurb on the cards for spring of '23. Ergh. Crush spacers. More expense. Rolls eyes, philosophically.
Oh, yeah, I think I knew the following tip but had forgotten it. Irked by a noisy shrieking belt, making you worry your alternator pulley bearing is shot, or the recently replaced water pump? Johnsons Baby Powder liberally applied to the lower pulley – hey presto – alternator belt is quiet again. I felt like a doofus.
...and why wasn't the screen washer fluid actually reaching my windscreen, despite a brand new bottle and pump? Blocked jets on the bonnet. Doh!
Good thing I've found a chap who knows the simple fixes, and is happy to share them.
Hi there. I have the same front suspension set up on my P6B with Gaz shocks and polybushes. Are you able to share details of the mod to the lower mounting post please? Tx
 
Hi there. I have the same front suspension set up on my P6B with Gaz shocks and polybushes. Are you able to share details of the mod to the lower mounting post please? Tx
Hi JPE. I bought a chassis reinforcement kit from Classeparts in Leighton Buzzard back in about 2006. Extra stiffening plates to be welded onto the base unit to beef up the 'chassis rails' at the front. At the same time I bought their lower shock mod, threaded tubes which fit over the lower mounting points for the front shocks. Instead of locating the lower shock bushes with a split pin, after welding the beefier threaded tubes in place the shocks are held in place by a big nylock nut.
This means standard shocks no longer fit! I need shocks with bigger lower eyelets. GAZ made them for me, but as a special order. The lock nut was then too chunky to engage as far as the nylock. I had to slim the locknuts down a lot for them to fit.
With the benefit of hindsight, I would say the modification wasn't really worth the hassle. Although I do get to quote Dan Ackroyd from The Blues Brothers and say that my car has "Cop shocks, cop suspension" etc.
In this pic you can see the stiffening plates, the reinforcements for the lower suspension strut mounting point, and the beefed up lower shock mount with the slimmed-down lock nut.
p6repair-50.jpg
p6repair-65.jpg
I've since reverted from poly bushes in the front upper swing arms, which squeaked awfully, back to standard bushes. Poly everywherre else though!
 
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Hi mr Task! I also got same mod done via classeparts but it was done in 2011 before I owed my 3500S got some pics somewhere of the work being done. Also the extra strong anti roll bar (police spec). And the adjustable shocks that were fitted in 2020 when I had the front suspension refurbished. I was never really sure of the difference it made as had not experienced standard set up. But I took my friend Paul (hi Paul) who also has a standard 3500S 1972 out as a passenger in mine and after few turns off roundabouts he immediately commented on its handling and the difference in body roll etc. So I guess it works!

Dave
 
Hi JPE. I bought a chassis reinforcement kit from Classeparts in Leighton Buzzard back in about 2006. Extra stiffening plates to be welded onto the base unit to beef up the 'chassis rails' at the front. At the same time I bought their lower shock mod, threaded tubes which fit over the lower mounting points for the front shocks. Instead of locating the lower shock bushes with a split pin, after welding the beefier threaded tubes in place the shocks are held in place by a big nylock nut.
This means standard shocks no longer fit! I need shocks with bigger lower eyelets. GAZ made them for me, but as a special order. The lock nut was then too chunky to engage as far as the nylock. I had to slim the locknuts down a lot for them to fit.
With the benefit of hindsight, I would say the modification wasn't really worth the hassle. Although I do get to quote Dan Ackroyd from The Blues Brothers and say that my car has "Cop shocks, cop suspension" etc.
In this pic you can see the stiffening plates, the reinforcements for the lower suspension strut mounting point, and the beefed up lower shock mount with the slinmmed-down lock nut.
View attachment 28050
View attachment 28051
I've since reverted from poly bushes in the front upper swing arms, which squeaked awfully, back to standard bushes. Poly everywherre else though!
Sounds like a lot of work but looks good and no doubt does the job! Alan did a lot of work on my 1st P6 and I always wanted to do the lower shock mount upgrades. I understand that he does not have any more of these or the uprated ARBs. Am wondering whether it would be possible to replace the lower mounting post with a sleeved bolt to accept a washer and nylock nut fitting.
 
You just cut a thread on the pin that is there, fit a slim nyloc nut and drive on.
Exactly. Then if you ever need to change out the front shocks, there'd be no extra expense and long wait for special order items. Standard replacement shocks would still fit.
Also, don't fit hard (solid!) shock mount bushes made out of a white plastic material called Delrin, like the ones I initially fitted, as supplied by Classeparts! Not fit for purpose! Stick with purple Poly.
 
Exactly. Then if you ever need to change out the front shocks, there'd be no extra expense and long wait for special order items. Standard replacement shocks would still fit.
Also, don't fit hard (solid!) shock mount bushes made out of a white plastic material called Delrin, like the ones I initially fitted, as supplied by Classeparts! Not fit for purpose! Stick with purple Poly.
Tx for the sound advice.
PS. I'm near Heathrow if you ever fancy meeting up. Will hopefully be at the Ace cafe meet tonite...
 
Ok, tx. Do you know what size die and nut is needed?
M16 X 1.5 worked fine on my '72 car.

You need to gauge how tight the original split pin arrangement holds the bushes, then only tighten the nut an equivalent amount, if you wind the nut up too tight the compliance in the bushes will be lost and something will likely break.
 
..... if you wind the nut up too tight the compliance in the bushes will be lost and something will likely break.
That's true........

Screenshot from 2026-02-10 18-04-26.png
We were able to weld this up, works fine.
don't fit hard (solid!) shock mount bushes made out of a white plastic material called Delrin, like the ones I initially fitted, as supplied by Classeparts!

First we kept the nut quite loose, but we got a knocking from the loose fit. Then to take up the gap and give compliance, I used a old bicycle inner tube over the Delrin and kept the nut only hand tight. Worked perfectly for over a decade so far.
 
Found a couple pics from 2011 when the strengthening was done - but not the mod to the shock mounting that’s standard. In 2020 adjustable monroe front shocks were fitted set at mid position.
 

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Found a couple pics from 2011 when the strengthening was done - but not the mod to the shock mounting that’s standard. In 2020 adjustable monroe front shocks were fitted set at mid position.
Hi All. I had a chat with a friendly MoT tester who advised that given the limited room to turn a thread (approx 15mm) a better option would be to cut the post just where the shock ends (approx 20mm from end) and weld a 16mm bolt on the end to accept a lock nut. In this way the load would still be carried on the original post so would not compromise the structural integrity of the fitting. Any thouhts?
Nb As an interim measure an going to add another spacer to take up the gap between the bush and split pin. Does anyone know the split pin size and whether a larger one will fit? Tx
 
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