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My 3500S Restoration Project

Discussion in 'Members Projects' started by iwish, Dec 23, 2014.

  1. iwish

    iwish Member

    Yes, i would hate to dent the gutter rails when i eventually get round to putting them back on. Fortunately i only had to replace short sections so i was able to leave enough each side to give me a good line to work to, only time will tell.
     
  2. iwish

    iwish Member

    Yes, the worst wear was 1.78mm
     
  3. iwish

    iwish Member

    I am fortunate to have won a large de-greaser on ebay for next to nothing, and i had 25 ltr of bilge cleaner which i had kicking around for years which is a brilliant de-greaser shame the labels are long gone as i would gladly buy it again. As you can see from the pictures below it did a fair job.
     
  4. iwish

    iwish Member

    So here is whats i have been up to.

    I'm happy with the de-greasing results, but it would not take the tarnishing off the inside.

    I took the block and crank to my nearest engineering shop for inspection and it turns out that the bottom end has had a rebuild at some point and just polished the crank and re-honed the cylinders. Although the bearings and piston rings looked good i will replace them whilst i have it stripped down.

    20161127_103011.jpg
    Unfortunately, the engineers shop were not familiar with machining the block to fit a rubber oil seal.
    So i decided to go with the rope seal. This is a bitch of a job, it took all day to press and crush the seal a bit at a time, then turn the crank, then remove and re-lubricate it and start again gradually increasing the pressure on the bolts and using a sash cramp to keep the end cap square as it would tilt using the bolts alone. There's no way you could ever do this with the crank in situ, its far too thick.
    20161208_135154.jpg

    Next was the cylinder heads, i bought some later heads off eBay which were in pretty good shape. I made a jerry built jig so that i could press the old valve stems out and new ones in. with the aid of a 10 ton jack it worked surprisingly well.

    20161230_141526.jpg

    New valve stems and oils seals in place.
    20161230_144759.jpg

    New springs and valves fitted using the old spring caps and colletts. The valve and seats were re-seated the old way.

    20161230_151325.jpg
    Bit of a jump as the pictures between these 2 didn't save for some reason. still it saves you getting bored.
    At this point nearly everything is re-fitted, i upgraded the timing cover and oil pump with an one from a SD1 which is a straight swap and has the bonus of a rubber oil seal.
    New cam shaft and bearings were also fitted.
    20161230_163142.jpg

    Next it was the turn of the carbs, a complete strip down and new carb service kits from Mark Gray whether they needed it or not, who knows.
    20160309_131204.jpg

    Now fully assembled, i decided to upgrade the air filters as the old air box had rusted through in places.
    20170131_144126.jpg
    Work on the gear box is about to commence, i was hoping to replace the 4 speed box with a 5 speed SD1 box, but in over a year of watching they never seem to come up for sale in my area and looking at the price people are asking i'm not sure it warrants the money?
     
  5. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    It depends on the price people are asking, but it's a very worthwhile conversion, and the 4 speed is weak, and parts are had to come by. The rear bearing alone is £174, and laygears unobtainable. I've heard of one new laygear surfacing in the last 30 years or so.

    As for the 5 speed, there are lots of boxes about used for sensible money, it was the V8 bellhousing that was hard to come by, but Rimmers have had these remade and they sell them for £300+VAT IIRC, which will reduce the price of the used ones.
     
  6. mtb_tuli

    mtb_tuli Active Member

    It´s well known know, that the LT77 box is required for many modifications, so prices here in Germany are approx 350-500 EUR for the box only. Harvey is right, it´s the bell housing (and the correct one), but more problems now makes the gear-selector unit on the box (the tricky sellers take it off) and (very expensive) the gear-stick and the pedal box.
    2nd hand bellhousing (at mine the slave cyl housing was cut off and closed with an alu cover, ok...) and the rest quickly adds for another 400-500. Took me one year of intensive search to get all.
    Classiv-rover.nl in the Netherlands currently offers a overhauled LT77 box for a very fair price. Interesting site and guy, he is driving a Rallye P6.
     
  7. unstable load

    unstable load Well-Known Member

    Contact Ashcrofts for a gearbox, they do the LT77 and R380 in 4 and 2 wheel drive, but it isn't going to be easy on the purse.
     

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