My 3500s project - future daily drive


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On the subject of wheel studs and nuts - it might/not save you time and cash to know you can buy lug nuts for those wheels to fit your existing studs, in black, from Wins. Depends maybe on the finish you want - if I have understood it right you need the front SD1 studs x 20 and then you have to source the correct chromed nuts for them if you decide to convert the hubs.

Word of warning - do them up gently! I snapped two studs with hardly any effort at all :oops: 62 lb/ft seems to be the correct torque.
Hi guys, thanks for the replies -

Ron thanks for the advice on the scuttle and the gotcha on the heads - I will see if I can get the scuttle off and check out the seal you mentioned next time I am over. Will also look into what I need to do with bolts on the heads. I have 10 bolts on my Defender, but these were replacing SD1 heads so were a straight swap, didn't realise that going from the P6 heads to the latest would need any changes. :oops:

Tor - I have just sourced a set of SD1 Vitesse nuts for £10 + postage so will most likely be trying to get myself a set of Ford from somewhere locally - I was thinking that the Wins nuts would be good if I couldnt find any SD1 nuts at a decent price. They might still be an option if the ones that arrive are wrong! :shock:




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Hi Jamie,

Then you'll be after SD1 studs, which means the necessary front hub grease caps should be an easy thing to sort while at it.

Good luck sorting that water ingress!

My youngest brother (he's not that young- 2nd year of uni) was sitting in the car and mucking about when the gearstick came adrift and would move up and down. Investigation found that the spherical seat had broken up and the bush on the end has long gone.

I am resigned to having to fork out for a new seat but may try to get a new bottom bush made up does anyone have any pics of a good one for reference?


Take a look at my topic, Dutch Rover 2200TC. The last discussion is about some gearlever issues including some good advice and exploded views. :) The spherical seats are easy to come by, so that's not going to be a problem!
Where abouts in farnham are you?

I happen to be in the farnham area as well, and i cant say ive seen the p6!

I do recognise the 110, though.


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Hi Jamie,

Good-looking thread developing!

If you're after SD1 front studs, you might try a message to Hugh Chambers, who sells on ebay as room05. He's helped me out in the past on a number of SD1 bits.

Also, you can trim the P6 front grease caps...or just fit SD1 caps and the wheel doesn't then foul.

Good luck!

Hey guys, thanks again for all the kind comments. I have been crazy busy at work, and also my wife and I are in the process of selling our house - that had got very complicated and was taking up a huge amount of time however we finally exchanged yesterday so I can finally focus on the car! I have been tinkering away where possible however so I will do an update with lots of photos over the next few days if I can.

However in the meantime to reply to a couple of comments:

Car is in Weybridge at my parents place - hence the reason it wont have been around in Farnham :roll: and that is also why it is difficult to get to work on it :cry: I tend to try and drop in on my way home from work one night a week if I can. I am actually in Upper Hale.

I have Ford studs for my SD1 wheels, I got some SD1 nuts from a guy breaking them on ebay for £15 including postage :D


Gearstick is fixed.

Leak into footwell appears to be fixed - touchwood!
I promised an update and so here it is!

Last time I posted anything the gearbox bush had just disintegrated, and on removal of the stick we found that the bush (acorn?) on the end of the stick was gone too.

I ordered a new spherical seat, and after speaking to my parents neighbour, he turned up a new acorn for me - or a very good approximation of one, neither of us having seen one in the flesh:

This was a press fit on the end of the shaft, but was glued on too with some engineering adhesive.

I then refitted the centre console.

The carbs had never been quite right, so I gave it a third go at getting done. I took the piston and damper assemblies off and then slackened all the linkages and stop screws. I then set both stop screws so that they were just touching the stop without picking up either butterfly. Then I tweaked and retweaked the connecting linkage until both carbs opened at the same time, or as close as possible anyway. Finally I adjusted the jet to the same height on each using a set of verniers, dropped the tops back on and then leaned both out equal amounts. It then sounded like a true v8 again!

I replaced all the coolant hoses with new ones, and new stainless clips, and wire brushed some spots of rust and chucked some red oxide on here and there:

At this point when idling for extended periods it would lift the rad cap and drop coolant on switchoff.The temp gauge would be in the green but at the top end of it.
I had already done a quick flush, and also washed the fins through as they had quite a lot of cobweb-like material on them, but this only helped a little. I decided to go for it properly, I removed the rad, and flushed it through before chucking these in. Moving does have it benefits as you do find stuff at the back of cupboards (No brand loyalty here!):

Rad out:

Pickling with vinegar for a few hours:

Then thoroughly washed through and quite a lot of crud and limescale came out! I should have done it longer but didnt want to push it as things are a little crusty along the bottom anyway.

With rad back in I also put on a new cap and this seems to have solved the issue.

So then it was onto the subject of wheels. I had these SD1 nuts:

So I ordered a few Ford studs off ebay, just a handful until I was sure it would all work. These fitted the hub fine (thanks to Quattro's thread I was sure they would already). But ended up being too long and so were bottom out in the nut before the wheel was clamped up.

Again my parents neighbour Chris came to the rescue, and he turned them down for me. They were retested and we now have studs that clamp up the wheels and dont bottom out 8)

Now I just need to get my new tyres fitted to the SD1 rims and put them on the car!

Then onto the interior. I hoovered it out again and then removed the seats and cleaned and fed them. Here is the passenger side front:

Then onto today, and I foolishly asked my Dad to book an MOT for me as I fancied a day off and needed something to do. This morning I zoomed over there and with my brother (gearstick breaker) we started feverishly cleaning everything in sight:

the smasher at work

Then it was off to the MOT station!

Where it passed :D :) :D It was their first P6 and they were very enthusiatic about it, loved it in fact. He tapped away with his hammer but could not find anything and he was shocked at how solid it was. He said I had got quote unquote "a minter".

So then I went straight to the post office and we spent the afternoon cruising about:

Before coming home:

so all in all a good day. And even with the hot weather it didnt overheat or drop any water :LOL:

Just need to fix the fuel gauge now as it shows empty the entire time! Gauge works, so sender must be stuck/sunk/dead.

Watch this space...


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Staff member
Hi Quagmire,

It is all coming together nicely, and well done on the MOT.

I can see that you oil pressure gauge is reading incorrectly as well with 60psi at just over 1000rpm and coolant temp at 85 degrees C. What type of pressure transmitter has been fitted? What does it look like?

Ha! Well spotted Ron! The gauge has been behaving normally so far usually indicating around 40-45ish when cold, I hadn't noticed the duff reading in the photo :oops: , will keep an eye on it. Should be going down on a hot (for the UK) day like today, not up!

Thanks for the headsup :D
My new wheels got a set of new wheels last night. Had to adjust the drivers side d-post a little, nothing serious.

I love driving it! Quiet, smooth, solid, refined and brisk as well when you want it to be.

Next is:

Investigate oil pressure gauge occasionally giving whacky readings. Will verify if it is actually high oil pressure or just wonky sender/ electrics.

Sort fuel sender

Electric fan.
Well after doing just over a hundred miles at the weekend puttering about with no issues I decided to take the plunge and drive the ~35mile commute to work up the M3 and into Kingston.

Journey in was uneventful quiet and smooth, and I made it safely to the NCP:

But as the day went on, temperatures became a bit of a concern - I havent done enough miles in it yet to be 100% confident of its behaviour in traffic in hot conditions, and the metoffice observations were pretty grim reading!:

I had work to do so stayed a little late to reduce my chances of getting stuck in traffic, I got out of Kingston with no issues and stopped for fuel before i got on the A316. Error! The heatsoak from parking up caused what I believe to be vapourisation problems and the car conked out 500 yards from the petrol station. I was fortunate that it died on the way up the sliproad and I managed to crawl into the bus stop. 500ft further up the road and I would have been on the A316 itself and totally buggered!

So after taking this picture I popped the bonnet, told my wife I was going to be late and waited. After half an hour it had cooled enough to run properly and away I went.

At the weekend my brother gave me a few spares he needed to get rid of, including a discovery radiator and fan and the fan from a rover 220. The rad is waaay to big for a P6 (Its something like 33" long), but I might see if I can shoehorn it into my 90 as the rad on that has no cooling fins left at all. The Disco fan however looks promising, although its only a 12". The 16" rover fan is too large to squeeze in- I want to get something setup as a puller if I can.

Good points:

The oil pressure gauge us behaving itself - although oil pressure at idle dropped to somewhere between 10-15psi this afternoon in the heat, thats not too bad though I dont think.

Water temp is staying in the green, even in this heat. :D

Fuel economy looks to be somewhere around 23mpg at the mo. Not bad for something rudely awoken from 10yrs of slumber. 8)

The ride is excellent, and the brakes continue to sharpen up. It pulls like a train too!

Bad points:

The diff is leaking a little, I had a small puddle of oil left in the space when I backed out, maybe 3-4" in diameter.

Fuel vaporisation! :evil:

Fuel sender... still not looked at it. :oops:

I will be spending much more time washing the P6 than I ever did with the Landrover, because it looks much better shiny! :p

So the new list of things to do is now:

1 - Check diff, i am assuming there is some kind of breather assembly on top? My experience with landrovers is that when something starts to chuck oil, it quite often is a sign of a blocked breather.

2- Investigate rear mounting my electric fuel pump (left over from my 90 when I converted to EFI and ditched the low pressure pump).

3- See what can be done with one of the electric fans, if anything.

Updates to follow sometime after Thursday, when I will try to get some of these things done....


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Staff member
There is an oil seal for each differential drive shaft, and these can leak just as the pinion oil seal can leak. If the breather atop the diff is clear, then one or both of the drive shaft oil seals will likely require replacing. Sadly it is not straight forward to replace one as a press become involved.

If your electric fuel pump is within the engine bay, what type is it? Some pumps are pullers and others are pushers, and their correct location is a function of this.