My 2000TC 'Minstrel' needs a lot of TLC..

#1
After buying my 1972 Rover 2000TC P6 a couple of weeks ago I am finally going to start getting her back to health and ready to go on the road again. Apparently this car had been standing for about the last 18 months or so without being used much. It failed the MOT in November 2015. This is the failure list:
17/11/2015 Fail
Mileage
71860 miles
Mileage Notes
  • The mileage recorded at this MOT is below average for a vehicle of this age. (Average mileage of 200000)
Refusal Notices
Nearside front suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill end capping (2.4.a.3)
Offside front suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill end capping (2.4.a.3)
Offside front suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded inner wing under wheel arch (2.4.a.3)
Nearside suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded floor to sill, front to rear (2.4.a.3)
Nearside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded chassis rail by rear floor (2.4.a.3)
Offside suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded floor to sill at front and rear (2.4.a.3)
Nearside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded sill end capping (2.4.a.3)
Nearside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded inner wing under wheel arch (2.4.a.3)
Service brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.b.7)
Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.b.7)
Front parking brake recording little or no effort brakes not tested due to non running of engine (3.7.b.6a)

Advisory Notices
Unable to check outer sills fully due to sill covers.

As you can see, she is a little under the weather.
Link to photos: Rover P6 2000TC by Restivo57
 
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rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#3
the mot tester was testing the outer sills as though they shouldnt be there from how i read that...? Whatever you do take it somewhere else next time?
 
#4
This what I finished today. I had cut out and prepped a lot of the first part in the last couple of days, what I hadn't done was finished today before welding.
1) Refurbed and replaced box section n/s/r pass seat inside and under car.
2) Cutout and cleaned old rusty plating on n/s/r pass seat inside and under car.
3) Replaced and welded strengthening struts n/s/r pass seat inside and under car.
4) Cutout and cleaned old rusty plating on n/s/r pass seat-floor lower bulkhead.
5) Replaced and welded n/s/r pass seat-floor bulkhead with new plating.
I have included a link below to show before and after photos. The first 2 photos show what was beneath the n/s/r pass seat when it was first removed from the car.

Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs Slideshow by Restivo57
 
#6
the mot tester was testing the outer sills as though they shouldnt be there from how i read that...? Whatever you do take it somewhere else next time?
It definitely won't be going back there. Reading through some of the failures over the last few years there have been some really strange remarks! The outer sills themselves although maybe a little surface rusty, are in pretty good condition. They certainly don't need replacing.
 

PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#7
Along with the cover sill misunderstanding, I've had two P6s and seen many others repaired where the inner wing panels join, just tiny patches. I'm assuming this makes little or no actual difference given none of the suspension locates here and there are plenty of holes drilled in the same panels.
 
#8
Good morning, guys.
Sorry to say not done much on The Minstrel in the last few days. As my son and daughter-in-law are in the process of moving, I've been helping them out. Hope to be back up and firing on all cylinders next week.

Just one other point I wish to make regarding previous MOT's on the The Minstrel. I noticed on a one of the advisories for 18/03/2014 that one of the things brought up was about the number plate. This is what was stated: 'O/S number plate dull'. WTF! The number plates are the original black and silver and are in excellent order. I think they are the originals as well as there is no record of replacing them. Very strange.
Many thanks for all your comments and criticisms. Always welcome. Another set of eyes can be a real bonus.
 

quattro

Administrator
Staff member
#9
My transit just failed its MOT because of the number plate being "dull." To be honest the lettering had faded rather badly and they weren't easy to read.

Has the black turned to grey? Has the silver gone darker because of corrosion?

I take it he means it's faded on the right hand side of one of the plates, but doesn't say whether it's the front or rear?
 
#10
Hi all.
A quick update on progress. First good day I have had to work on The Minstrel for a while. Managed to put the new floor pan in today. Gonna have to seriously think about a new welder. My wire was running more like a bloody machine gun than a welder! Tried allsorts of ways to get the feed smooth. managed it in the end by putting a nut below the feed wheel adjuster. The torch handle's none too brilliant theses days either. Anyway it done what it had to today. Here's a link for the pic: http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160331_152754.jpg
As I said before welding not fantastic but it does the job. My birthday coming up soon to going to have to throw big hints to the family. Lol
I had already repaired the sill to floor and seat to floor bulkhead. So just needed to finish cleaning the edges of the floor pan cutout. Cut the new floor pan to the shape I needed and tacked it in to start. Then welded around the floor pan. I also took the opportunity to strengthen the front seat rear anchor point on the sill/floor. Hoping to start repairing the panel near the rear suspension spring next week. As I ran out of gas today I started cutting some plate to shape. I will then put in a new inner sill below the strengthening box under the r/n/s seat. But that is looking a bit far ahead tonight. Best way I think is to play it by ear and see where we go. Pleased to say The Minstrel is starting to take a bit of shape on the n/s/r floor and n/s/r underneath.
Hopefully back soon with more updates. Cheers all.......Steve :D
 
#11
Hi Quattro
Thanks for the reply.
I cannot see why any comment was made about the number plates as they look perfect to me and anyone else I have asked. I think the Tester just wanted to use more printer ink. Lol
Thanks again......Steve :)
 
#12
Not been able to do much prior to this week due to other commitments and also the fact I had to buy some more gas for the mig welder. I finally managed to start work on The Minstrel Wednesday and yesterday but then the big man upstairs decided the ground was dry and rain stopped play on both days. :'( I did mange to get a little bit done in between the showers which included welding the underside joint of the new floor panel. Work on The Minstrel went well today. This is what I got done:
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160408_111152.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160408_111204.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160408_134003.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160411_123223.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160408_173724.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160408_134136_1.jpg
http://i1161.photobucket.com/albums...C/Rover 2000TC P6 Repairs/20160411_131454.jpg









(A couple of the pics actually show how much rusted plate there is behind the left hand side of the n/s wheel arch. I had to cut a 12" x 8" section of rusted plate out. This was a piece of plate that had been put in at the last restoration! The photos show the underneath behind and to the left of the n/s wheel arch and the n/s inner wheel arch. Had previously cut all the main rust our last week so basically today was just cleaning it up and prep it and weld the new plating on.
Was all going well until about 3pm this afternoon. I ran out of wire. Fortunately I had another 5kg spool in my shed. problem was that the spool itself was broken. So I had to figure a way to cover the side that was broken so I could transfer the wire onto a good spool using an electric drill. Solved that problem by cutting circular plate of metal and cable tied it to the broken spool. Drilled a hole through the centre. Clamped a piece of 1/2" pipe in the vice and put the now fixed spool on it. Put the drill with the new spool attached to it in another vice. Then I very carefully transferred about 1kg of wire to the new spool. By the time I had done that it was about time to clear up and get my dinner. All in all it was a good day's work. Another day tomorrow.
APOLOGIES FOR BAD LINKED PHOTOS. AS I HAD EDITED THEM ON MY PHOTOBUCKET AFTER I ORIGINALLY POSTED THEM ONTO THIS PAGE THEY THEN GOT LOST. I HAVE ADDED NEW ONES TO REPLACE THEM.
 
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#14
First let me apologise for the 'double' photos on the last progress report.

Yesterday I finished cleaning r/n/s footwell and sprayed it with primer. Also primed the inside of the r/n/s seat strengthening box. Forgot to mention before. I welded the seam between the old and the new floor pan underneath where the seat bulkhead and floor plates join. So now there is a good strong seal between the 2 platings.




I finished off welding the plate on the r/n/s/ wheel arch bulkhead and started plating the side of the wheel. arch.


As the wheel arch has to be done in conjunction with fitting and welding the first part of the inner sill I made a 24" x 8" (with a right angle bend at 3") plate to put the first part of the inner sill in place. Tbh, I am not totally happy with it so may redo this plate again rather than try to botch it in place.

When I come to actually fitting and welding the new full inner sill in place I shall be using some .9mm galvanised channel I acquired some years ago. The new length will be about 5ft long. I think it will look better in one piece rather than the patched up way it was done before.

I am going to have seriously think about undersealing the new plating underneath as we are having some pretty damp weather this month.

Can't do anything today as I have to visit the tooth doctor and have some fillings and an extraction. Oh....don't you just love dentists!
 
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#15
Good evening, guys.
Done a bit more today as it was a nice day and I had some time to spend on it.
A few days ago I managed to get a couple of hours on 'Minstrel'. By the time I cut out the old rusty inner sill on the n/s the wasn't too much metal left to weld to. So what I had to was make a rib to weld the new sill to. I cut a strip of metal 45cm x 50mm and then drilled some 6mm holes in it. I 'spot' welded the rib onto what decent metal was left of the old inner sill. I also managed to get a few welds about 25mm long on the rib as well. That made a nice strong plate to weld the sill to.

Today I found some Red Oxide paint on the shelf in my shed (or rather, my son Shane did!). After managing to get the lid off (I have no idea the last time it was opened, but it's got to be more than 5 years!) we found a nice thick layer of dried paint. Possibly about 1/2" thick! We managed to get rid of that using a carrier bag and then slinging it in the bin. Shane added a bit of thinner to the paint and using a paddle on a drill mixed the paint up nice. I then took it and painted the new metal on the underside of the car. At least that gives it a bit of protection while we still have some damp weather.

Working on the inner sill below the rear passenger door sill. I prepped (cleaning any raised welds) and cleaned where I welded the new plating on the box strengthener underneath the N/S/R passenger seat under the car. I then measured and cut a plate of 0.9 galvanised steel and cleaned the edges which includes ensuring the zinc is cleaned off to 17mm - 25mm for welding to the car. Again I drilled a few 6mm holes to 'spot' weld the sill to the new rib I had put in. It didn't really need the 'spots' as the main welds to the rib would be plenty strong enough, but it didn't hurt to do a little overkill, I suppose. I welded the first part of the new N/S inner sill. I was hoping to put the new inner sill in 1 length front to rear. However due to the way I have been repairing and replacing panels, it is better to do it in sections. By the time I have finished the sill it will all look as one anyway. For some reason or other after check the O/S the new sill does not come right up to the wheel arch. I thought it would have done. The sill on the o/s stops short of the end of the sill cover. I think I am going to add a plate to the new sill add make up the 1" or so to meet up with the wheel arch as to me it doesn't look right. Got to admit though, apart from that last part I was really pleased with final look of the new inner sill.




Nearly out of gas again, so will have to sort that out in the next few days. May have enough just finish that sill I done today, fingers crossed.

More to follow next week.
Just found out the photos have been deleted by me when sorting my photobucket out. Sorry for this. My fault. Here are the new links for them:

 
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sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#16
Looking good Stephen! One word of warning, it looks like you are using galvanized steel for the plating. While that's good from a corrosion point of view, its very bad from a health point of view when welding. You want to grind off the zinc near where you are welding, apart from the fact it will be horrible to weld through it also gives off nasty gases when hot. You most definitiely don't want to be breathing that stuff!

If you have ground off the zinc and I didn't spot it feel free to tell me to shut up!

Best,

Steven
 
#17
Thanks for the reply, Steven. Yes, I do make sure the zinc is ground off before I weld it. I just reread my post and I hadn't actually stated that I cleaned the zinc off before welding. This has now been rectified. Thanks for pointing it out, Steven. So far The Minstrel has had plating from a washing machine, a tumble dryer and a fridge as well as galvanised plate used on her! Just wondering when to start on the kitchen sink! :confused::eek::D

p.s. I never tell anyone to shut up. You may need their help in the future. Lol.
 
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#19
Good morning, people.
Well, I am leaving the welding for a few days and going to concentrate on putting the new window scrapers in. These I got from J.R.Wadhams for £29.00 inc pp. I know a lot of you are saying get the dearer ones but unfortunately I have stick to my means. Shane and I started Monday on the drivers door/window first. We undone to 3 of the window frame bolts on the sides of the door. When it came to undoing the 4th we found it was rusted in. So I had to use an impact punch to loosen it which really messed the head up. We removed all of the sealer that was in both of the window frame uprights at the edge of the door. As we weren't too sure how to take the strip out we undone all the winder mechanism as well to give us more movement. That did help as I was able to lift the window carriage to clean the window scraper holding bar and respray it black. (see photos). There were only 3 bolts out of 6 bolts holding the old scraper in place! I was pretty surprised as to how good a condition that bar was in with very little rust at all on it. Using the old scraper as a template I cut the new one to shape. I then greased the new rubber to help with inserting it in place. Made it a lot easier to stretch it into place as well. We found that we needed to really push the rubber down and then bolt it so that the seal would 'fold' towards the window. I replaced the original bolts and put the 6 back that there should have been. I took the black panel from inside the door which holds the walnut strip down to my workshop and cleaned all the old paint and crap off then resprayed it black.










Yesterday I managed to get the front passenger door done pretty easily as I found out I did not have to take all the bolts out as I had on the driver door. Shame I hadn't known that when I done the other door! :) The window frame bolts all came off very easy. When I lifted the window frame so I could clean and respray the bar I found again half the bolts were missing! The old seal was harder to remove as there was a bit more rust holding it in. After taking the old seal out I then basically repeated what I had done on the driver door.



I am going to start on the r/n/s door tomorrow. I am pleased to say things are going well with The Minstrel.
 
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