Most compact Rover v8 set-up.

Oldskoolrob

Oldskoolrob

Active Member
Howdy Groovers.
So while I wait for my engine/box to be freighted from all over the place I got to thinking of how to set it up for the smallest footprint, as length will be an issue in the Cortina Engine bay. It it true that the p6 timing cover and Buick 231 V6 water-pump give the shortest overall length? As for the oil pump - I've seen variations that point the oil filter in a myriad of directions - what are my options there? Is there a set-up that points it straight down (not down and to the front)? As for sumps, which Rv8's had front bowl sumps? I know I'm in for some custom fab to get it all in there but I'd like to use as much off-the-shelf stuff as possible....
 
Hi, Oil pump - the P5b pump cover points the filter straight down as you require but it has the earlier less common 13/16" thread as opposed to the later 3/4". However there are spin on adaptors with two unions to pipe off to a remote filter head. There used to be a aftermarket replacement pump cover with two side mounted unions for even more restricted areas.

Sump pan - SD1 sumps have the deep part at the front.

Water pumps - Here I can't be much help with your suggestion not being commonly available over here, perhaps others may know. Here in the UK the shortest one is the P6b (so called 'short nose') albeit with a price penalty.

I think your biggest challenge will be getting the right hand exhaust out/back past the steering box, you will have to be creative.

HTH.

Colin
 
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Look at a Buick pump - just have to find a pulley. They are VERY cheap in USA - I bought one on spec last year, landed in Oz for A$63.
Look up on ebay....GMB 130-1420 . Very short nose.
 
colnerov said:
Sump pan - SD1 sumps have the deep part at the front.
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No they don't, because they have a flat bracket off the well of the sump at the rear that bolts into the bottom of the bellhousing to act as a strengthener. It's also why you can't use an SD1 sump on a P6B auto.

I can't think of a RV8 that has a front well.
 
Oldskoolrob, you might find good info on shoehorning an RV8 into a Cortina over on the V8 Owners Forum website. There used to be a few chaps on there who had done that. That seems to be (or at least used to be) where the folks who know all the different permutations of RV8 bits'n'pieces shared their experience and showed off their custom creations.
 
If you want a front well Rover sump use a 1mm disc and a welder and make one, or give the job to someone who can. Lets face it, if you are going to transplant a Rover V8 into a different make of car it is not going to be plug and play is it.
Same with an oil filter, fit a take off with unions and run pipes to a remote filter head, put the filter out of the way.
Always a good idea to look further down the road than just packaging the lump - ie, will the trans take the power / how about the axle ? suspension ? brakes ??
All of a sudden the $$$$ look to be in the oh $h1t territory - been there !
 
harveyp6 said:
No they don't, because they have a flat bracket off the well of the sump at the rear that bolts into the bottom of the bellhousing to act as a strengthener. It's also why you can't use an SD1 sump on a P6B auto.

I can't think of a RV8 that has a front well.
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Hi, Ahh, yes, that was brain fade. When I required it many years ago for one project I sectioned an SD1 sump and flipped it round. I forgot about that one. Apologies!

Colin
 
Rear axle from an Oz cortina that had a 4L Falcon engine ought to be able to take the power. Maybe the brakes, but....
 
arthuy said:
I seem to remember that the mgb v8 has a remote oil filter set up if you are struggling for space.
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Hi, Remote oil filters were de-rigueur when putting the RV8 into series Land Rovers. MGB exhaust or 'block hugger' exhaust manifolds may give a bit more clearance.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, Remote oil filters were de-rigueur when putting the RV8 into series Land Rovers.
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Oh I remember it well. The kits never specified a remote filter, but if you didn't use one the front of the engine had to be far too high so that there was no risk of the front diff hitting the filter. The remote solved that. At the time a couple of my mates were doing that conversion all the time, and I was buying a P6B 2 or 3 times a week, removing the engine and selling it to them for the price I paid for the car, so all the rest was basically costing me nothing. If it was a 3500S I got even more off them as they had the flywheel as well.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm assuming a custom sump and remote filter will be order of the day. May also go a remote water pump too. Only problem is that all the remote stuff has to go somewhere too! Brakes are getting an upgrade to assisted dual circuit, box will probably (hopefully) be a BW66, maybe a Ford C4. Rear axle is a BW78 I think, and will hold (I hope) due to the shock absorbing auto, and a light foot as car will be a cruiser....
 
I've just bought (cheap) a 4.0L Thor engine. Will be top-hat linered soon. I am looking at using the front cover, with the crank driven oil pump, Nodiz pro to provide sparks. The sump is a different shape at the front and deeper at the back, so will be modded. The front is about 20mm shorter, at the drive belt. with sepentine belt. I am looking to run an electric fan, so want as much room between the engine and radiator as possible. May all go wrong if the power steering pump that came with the engine can't drive the power steering box.
Jim.
 
Hi Geordie Jim
I have a 4.6 block that I need to have tophat liners fitted too.
Who did you get to fit them?
Thanks Paul.
 
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