LT77 gearbox in 3500s

[pat180269]

Does this lot look right for going in a p6?

 

[mrtask]

Looks like just the ticket.

 

[pat180269]

What other parts if any are required ?
Spigot bearing , clutch, clutch arm, slave cylinder, change to clutch master, flywheel ?

Also from the numbers on the box it looks like its originally from a tr7 (CLxxxxxxxC). Will this be ok behind a v8?

 

[mrtask]

Yeah. All that too. I, errrm, haven't actually carried out my conversion yet, but I think that was pretty much my parts list. You need a fluid reservoir from a manual with two outlets, one for the brakes, one for the clutch. If anything else occurs to me I'll post it. Someone more knowledgeable will doubtless be along to drop real wisdom soon enough. A three pedal box if your car is an automatic. The LT77 rear crossmember will need a bit of adapting if that is the case. Search on here, it has all been covered in the past, you just have to dig up the old posts.

 

[harveyp6]

What other parts if any are required ?
Spigot bearing , clutch, clutch arm, slave cylinder, change to clutch master, flywheel ?

Spigot bearing, SD1 V8 clutch complete, & clutch arm all required. You can use the 3500s slave cylinder with a 1/4" spacer plate, or flare a metric fitting on to the clutch hose and use the SD1 cylinder. Clutch master and flywheel are OK. That prop needs to be from a 3500 auto P6.

Also from the numbers on the box it looks like its originally from a tr7 (CLxxxxxxxC). Will this be ok behind a v8?

It should be fine.

 

[pat180269]

Ok thanks. Is the spacer plate to move the slave away from the bellhousing?

I suspect i have a leak from the rear rope seal which i intend to deal with at the same time. Can this be done with the box removed or is it an engine out job ?

 

[harveyp6]

Ok thanks. Is the spacer plate to move the slave away from the bellhousing?

Yes.

I suspect i have a leak from the rear rope seal which i intend to deal with at the same time. Can this be done with the box removed or is it an engine out job ?

It can be done with the box out and flywheel off, but you need the chinese finger tool to pull the top half of the seal around, and you can't use the standard seal for that as it isn't long enough, you need something longer to allow for the extra bit that the tool needs to grip on to.
Make sure the engine breather system is all as it should be, and totally clear.

 

[pat180269]

Will do. Thanks.

 

[unstable load]

Pedal box, master cylinder, reservoir with 2 outlets, plumbing to slave, slave, flywheel, clutch assembly, clutch lever, release bearing, gearbox, spigot beating/bush.
Big buggering stick to massage the tunnel a bit for clearance if needed.
I used the auto propshaft.

 

[The Rovering Member]

It can be done with the box out and flywheel off, but you need the chinese finger tool to pull the top half of the seal around, and you can't use the standard seal for that as it isn't long enough, you need something longer to allow for the extra bit that the tool needs to grip on to.
Make sure the engine breather system is all as it should be, and totally clear.

My P5B had TK Bedford pre-shaped rope seals put in around twenty eight years ago which haven't dropped any oil since. It was with the engine out but l recall they were quite long so should be ok with a Chinese finger install.