Lt77 conversion requirements

Thanks for the above. I should have stated my problem more fully. I suspect that my current rear box mounts have sagged some - the gearchange mount seems lower than it should be, and the radiator fan runs close to the shroud at the top, and is definitely not parallel to the core -although that may be normal, but...The engine has a distinct incline to the rear. All this means I doubt that I have a reference for where the drive flange should be height wise. If I knew where it should be relative to the tunnel above I would have some idea how much the mounts have sagged, and if I should do them before I get the LT77 ready to go in. Havent had mine over 50mph/80kph yet, no vibration apparent so far. I have an auto prop shaft ready to go in with the LT77, and it took some cleaning and careful examination to locate the alignment arrows, and they do line up well now, although they werent a;ligned when I got it. IIRC the WSM specifies two different alignments of the UJs?
thanks
 
Harvey will know the prop specs. I see you have a 3500s, so the rear flange height may be different to an auto (which is what I started with)
All I can suggest is you put a jack under the box and raise the rear until the mounts look like they would un sagged and take a measurement.
I am not even sure if un sagged is a bona fide term, but you get my drift.
 
I have an auto prop shaft ready to go in with the LT77, and it took some cleaning and careful examination to locate the alignment arrows, and they do line up well now, although they werent a;ligned when I got it. IIRC the WSM specifies two different alignments of the UJs?
There are two different alignments, but if the 2 arrows are lined up, if the two parts of the prop are a matched pair you shouldn't have any problems. If you were to have problems then you could measure the angle of offset and compare it to the figures in the WM. Your car should have the later spec.
 
Understood the part about the splines difference between LT77 and 3500s, but the pressure plate seems to be acceptable in the conversion guide?

Also seems to be a self centering option for the SD1 Clutch pressure plate and bearing, I’m not sure of the subtle differences between them?
The pressure palate should be fine as long as the diameters and thicknesses of the driven plates is the same, IMO.
I'd fit a new one if uncertain about age and condition.
 
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