Lt77 conversion requirements

I see the notes about spacing the P6 clutch slave out 1/4" from the bellhousing, but what happens about the push rod? The P6 pushrod is threaded for a clevis - does it get swapped for the SD1 pushrod?
thanks
 
Whats the functional difference between spacing the P6 clutch slave away from the bellhousing, and shortening the sd1 pushrod the same amount?
 
Can anybody who has done this conversion advise how the rear mount was attached to the floor please? Pics would be optimal! Also were the original mounting brackets left in place, or cut off? Its not imminent, but I want to have everything worked out and ready. Also the WSM advuses remove the fan blades off the water pump, and the aircleaner, and the exhausts, but does tipping the gearbox downwards endanger anything around the firewall that I need to watch out for?
thanks
 
Here is a pic of mine. I used an SD1 rear mount, cut the ends off and welded new ends to mate up with the floor brackets. No cutting was done to the car as far as I can remember.
IMG_0240 (1).JPG
Since that photo was taken I have found that the propshaft splines on the auto propshaft were fully extended, so I have added a spacer between the gear box and prop.
This is a Britpart 15mm spacer, they also do a thicker one, do check compatibility I only list as an example.
Propshaft Spacer Kit - Britpart DA6339 | Rimmer Bros

You will need to decide how to hook up a speedo, either get a cable made up, or go for the SD1 electronic transducer and fit an electronic speedo, or go custom. I made up a chopper wheel and fixed it to the cable outlet on the g box, then fixed a optical sender to take a signal off the chopper and an electronic speedo from Caerbont mounted in the original hole in the S2 circuit board.
IMG_0204 (1).JPG
 
Thanks. Thats a better solution than the crude thing I did last time(30 years ago!), where I cut the original mounts off the underside, and just bolted the SD1 ends straight to the floor. Back then I used an Auto prop shaft and didnt have any issues - better keep an eye out for a problem this time.
The rear section in your pic doesnt look like a part of SD1 mount that I have - has the rear been replaced as well as the ends that used to bolt up to the SD1 floor mounts? You dont have a pic of the mount before it went on the car by any chance please?
thanks
 
I put my LT77 into an automatic base unit, adapting the SD1 gearbox rear crossmember to the brackets in the tunnel. I cut a bit off the mounts for the BW35 and added it to the SD1 part, to use the third available bracket as well. Cobble-fabbled, but it has held it all in place thus far. In the last pic you can see where I marked a line on the tunnel where the auto output flange was. The LT77 is a bit shorter, so as Cobraboy has said, a spacer on the auto prop is required.adapted-crossmember-1.jpgadapted-crossmember-2.jpgadapted-crossmember-3.jpg
 
Thanks. More food for thought. Are the auto mount points different from those of a manual ? From your asymmetric fabrication, it looks like there is only the one rearward mount ? The vertical holes in the modified SD1 bracket look slightly offset sideways, or is that an illusion?
thanks
 
JP928, the whole thing turned out much shonkier than I had envisaged! As you observe, the holes aren't where I had expected them to be. I measured many times, but still ended up with something other than I expected. Quite a few packing washers were also used. The butchered modified bracket wouldn't get a Kite mark but it has held the box snugly in place (whilst it destroyed itself... another story). Learning by doing, and doing more learning, by making things from scratch scrap!
 
Used the sd1 rear mount and chopped and welded it to fit the original body mounting , so it can all be put back to factory if wanted
 
Thanks. Thats a better solution than the crude thing I did last time(30 years ago!), where I cut the original mounts off the underside, and just bolted the SD1 ends straight to the floor. Back then I used an Auto prop shaft and didnt have any issues - better keep an eye out for a problem this time.
The rear section in your pic doesnt look like a part of SD1 mount that I have - has the rear been replaced as well as the ends that used to bolt up to the SD1 floor mounts? You dont have a pic of the mount before it went on the car by any chance please?
thanks
It was sold to me as an SD1 mount / rear crossmember, I trimmed it and modded it to bolt up to what was on the car.
Sorry no before pics.
Oh and no one else has had prop length issues only me. My prop arrows don't line up either, so maybe my prop has had the tube replaced in the past and the numpty factor has crept in and it was remade shorter thus making the use of a spacer necessary to close up the splines.
 
I put my LT77 into an automatic base unit, adapting the SD1 gearbox rear crossmember to the brackets in the tunnel. I cut a bit off the mounts for the BW35 and added it to the SD1 part, to use the third available bracket as well. Cobble-fabbled, but it has held it all in place thus far. In the last pic you can see where I marked a line on the tunnel where the auto output flange was. The LT77 is a bit shorter, so as Cobraboy has said, a spacer on the auto prop is required.View attachment 16556View attachment 16557View attachment 16558
I really like the extra arm to pick up the third mount on the car. I missed a golden opportunity there, nicely done !
 
Puffs out chest, struts around proudly. Recreating the missing mounting point for the 3500S clutch master bracket without a photo for reference was even more challenging. When I finally saw what the real thing actually looks like, long after I'd completed my installation, I was even more smugly self satisfied than when reading your praise, Mark.
I must add I made everything out of cardboard chocolate biscuit packaging and sticky tape, then handed my origami and brackets to other people with real talents like actually being able to weld and drill holes in the place they're supposed to go. I'd still be sitting on a folding stool in my empty engine bay without their help.
 
Most people use a cornflake packet, It just goes to show that choccy biccy packets are the way to go. Pure class.
 
Very funny guys, thanks for a laugh first thing in the morning.
Mrtask, "I must add I made everything out of cardboard chocolate biscuit packaging and sticky tape " this is known as CAD - Cardboard Assisted Drawing!
thanks
 
I
Oh and no one else has had prop length issues only me. My prop arrows don't line up either, so maybe my prop has had the tube replaced in the past and the numpty factor has crept in and it was remade shorter thus making the use of a spacer necessary to close up the splines.

No we simply reused the auto prop when we did mine
 
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