Lt77 conversion requirements

#1
hi all I should have acquired an lt77 box by the weekend , I know I need a bell housing , and auto prop what else would I need ? ??

I know il have to sort the mount out on the rear , will the 3500s pressure plate and flywheel work with an sd1 friction plate ?

Thanks all
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#2
, will the 3500s pressure plate and flywheel work with an sd1 friction plate ?
The flywheel will be OK, but the 3500S pressure plate won't be, you need an SD1 V8 clutch complete. You,ll also need an SD1 slave cylinder, or a 1/4" thick spacer plate for the 3500S cylinder.
 

colnerov

Well-Known Member
#8
Hi, Is the gearbox coming with the right remote? A lot of these sales are about breaking, what I would call a, complete gearboxes down to make more money. Like removing the remote and even the clutch arm pivot post.

Colin
 
#9
To be honest this will be my first expirence with this box ..... it’s got a remote and lever with it .... wether it’s the correct one I don’t know how would I tell
 

unstable load

Well-Known Member
#11
It would be worth considering the option of having the box opened and checked for bearings, synchros and the pump while you have it on the table. The LT77 is a good box, but they have their issues, like any mechanical product, and this is a good opportunity to check it out.
 
#12
Yes I will do Harvey will rebuild before fitting still got few parts to get
The gear box turns smoothly but has been sat a while by the looks of it ,it’s also missing the output flange so will need this also do you know off one off an land rover will fit?
Here’s the remote
 

Attachments

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#13
That looks like the remote you need.

I can't be sure whether a Land Rover flange would fit, but there must be enough scrap LT77's out there to be able to find one.
 
#18
Normally the D box would be a later one but i would open both boxes first and see in what condition the gears are. There is a main axle with a lot of gears on it and you should check all the gears and especially the reverse gear for pitting. If this pitting proces started, small metal parts can come loose and get into the oil. I have seen a few gears which were in poor condition. There are parts interchangable between a C and D box but i would not do that. If you order a rebuild kit then just mention the suffix and you will get the right package. I used Ashcroft a few times and have good experiences with them. Originally there is a fiber gear set in the oil pump and i would replace that with a steel one. There is a small o-ring fitted in the housing where the selector shaft enters the housing. This is normally not included in the overhaul kit but you should replace it as it can leak there. Also if you have a mechanical speedo, there is an o ring and a small oil seal there

If rebuild good, its a good box. I have one (a B or C suffix) in my MGB V8 conversion for 10 years now without any problems

Peter
 
#19
Bringing this thread back from the dead .....
I have fitted the rebuilt box to my car this weekend ,does anyone know what oil is best to run in it ? The sd1 manual says 75/90 I see on most websites people run atf...

Thanks
 

quattro

Well-Known Member
#20
I use Redline MTL and it's very good indeed. When I first got the car, with the LT77 already installed, it was a bit of a fight to get it into gear, so I drained the gear oil (It smelt like EP) and washes it out with a 1:1 mix of white spirit and Redline MTL. Then refilled with Redline MTL. The gearchange was transformed, it's a real slick shifter now.

Richard
 
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