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sdibbers

Well-Known Member
I have a slight tappet noise on my TC. I do know one valve guide is worn and I wonder if that’s the issue. Make a band to go around the camshaft sprocket before you run the engine without the cover or you’ll have oil everywhere! Ask me how I know! :)
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
I've experienced that problem once, and although the customer wasn't prepared to pay for further investigation, I put it down to the buckets worn in the carrier, which is a problem that occurs on the XK engines.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
I've experienced that problem once, and although the customer wasn't prepared to pay for further investigation, I put it down to the buckets worn in the carrier, which is a problem that occurs on the XK engines.
Interesting, the buckets on my TC were unworn as far as I could tell when I removed the head. (Sorry to hijack the thread a little).
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
It was the thought I had, and in the absence of looking into it further, and not really being able to think of much else, that was the conclusion I came to. I've had cracked caps that made a noise but I would think the OP would have noticed that if it were the case here.
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
So the question is: Why the clacking? It could be the valve springs (which I didn't change when I rebuilt the engine :oops:) but apart from that, I can't think of anything. I intend to run the engine without the cam cover on to see if I can detect where the noise is actually coming from.
After discussions with good friend & local P6 guru 'Eddie', I have decided to bite the bullet & remove the engine so that I can strip it & find out what's going on. In my friend's opinion, I shouldn't have been driving it as he thought it was serious enough to cause severe damage to the engine.

Here goes (with a helping hand from my son, Tom):

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After I'd disconnected everything, it took no more than 1/2 an hour to get it out, so it went smoothly:

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I'll let you know how it goes....
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
I'll let you know how it goes....
I'm almost too embarrassed to post this picture - look what had worked loose - the chain sprocket bolt!

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Fortunately it hasn't done any damage, but I wish I'd known before I took the engine out :rolleyes::(.. Fortunately I hadn't taken the head off (I was locking the timing). Anyway, nothing more serious which has to be good news & I'll do a bit of tidying up before I put the engine back in. There's a small oil leak between the engine & gearbox, plus the RHS sideplate gasket is leaking.

I've mentioned it some time ago, but you may see that there is no engine number on the ledge. This engine was a Rover - rebuilt unit (in the 60s I think) & has a plate on the LHS screwed to the block, number 600600 or similar. Likewise with the gearbox.
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
I'm always saying "try the simple things first". I probably ought to practice what I preach...:rolleyes:

It reminds me of the 'Police Squad' episode where they chop a car up looking for drugs, only to then find them in the glove box!
 
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Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
OK, so the engine is back together & I've done 90 miles this weekend without much difficulty, except a bit of faltering today. I haven't set up the timing or done any tuning though yet, so I can't expect it to be spot on until I do.

The large washer behind that bolt was missing, so I took the sump off as I thought it would be in there - which it was! I'd already put the engine back in at this point as I thought it would be easier to access the sump from my pit (which it was). I did wonder about being able to get at the front sump bolts with the engine in.......but Rover had of course thought of that!:cool:

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I always thought the 2 curved bits were rusty bits that had come out :rolleyes:, but of course they're not!

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Perfect... :D
 

roverp480

Active Member
I've mentioned it some time ago, but you may see that there is no engine number on the ledge. This engine was a Rover - rebuilt unit (in the 60s I think) & has a plate on the LHS screwed to the block, number 600600 or similar. Likewise with the gearbox.
Rovers policy was for a reconditioned replacement engine to take on the engine number of the old engine being replaced and that number would be stamped on the engine in the correct place, by the dealer. As often as not it never happened. Any numbers on the brass plate are the Recon Engine Part Number, location of rebuild and oversize/undersize dimensions of bore and crank. A new engine would have a new sequence number already stamped
 
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Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
No progress on this since my last post, but your opinions would be welcome on the remaining rattle that this engine has.

The noise is like a metallic pinking above, what I would estimate is around 3,000 rpm. It is not actual pinking because if the engine has to work harder (like going up a gentle hill in top gear) the noise disappears altogether, ie: the opposite of pinking.

I suspect it will be the little ends (gudgeon pins) which were one of the few things I didn't replace when I rebuilt the engine a few '000 miles ago. I didn't replace the valve springs either (but have a new set to go in, so may well do those as I'll have to take the head off to eventually put the pistons back in, assuming I change the pins.

If it was valve guides (which I think were replaced when the head was converted to unleaded - but can't find the paperwork...:rolleyes:) I presume they would cause a rattle under load also.
 
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