jamesdean2112
Active Member
i'd say 50 miles in a car that hasn't moved in 36 years is a great achievement mate well done. I thought the ignition light on the dash was normal lol :roll: something i need to fix
OCC 469 - restoring & running a "sharkstooth" 2000
- Thread starter Phil Robson
- Start date
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
christopher storey said:
The book says 6 deg ATDC.... for the emission controlled cars. I must try to use the early workshop manual
.I've now set the timing to around 6 deg BTDC & the performance has leapt to something quite driveable!
It has also allowed me to set the idle speed correctly which wouldn't get below 1000rpm before. We live & learn The major point now is the clacking tappets which I'll have to set up again. I haven't taken the cam cover off yet, so I'm hoping that most of the clearances are OK.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Now I've had a few drives in OCC with the engine performing much better, I have noticed a pretty marked flat spot between say 40 & 50mph in top gear, similarly in 3rd at lower speeds :?
Might it be a fault with the vacuum advance on the distributor? Perhaps air getting in?
Might it be a fault with the vacuum advance on the distributor? Perhaps air getting in?
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I haven't posted for a while, due to not doing a great deal on the car of late. However, I've now had OCC's engine fully tuned by local P6 guru Eddie. He's also set the tappet shims that I didn't quite get right .
Anyway, the exhaust manifold was cracked which didn't help with the tuning, nor the sound it made so I've managed to get another one.
I've also been making up a better exhaust from parts I have. The really early cars had a different setup to most early ones & I'm coming up with a compromise, given that I scrapped the original one about 9 years ago, so don't have it for a pattern :roll: .
I've made up a front pipe without a can on it & will run it as a 2 can system & see how it goes. It probably should have a can after the downpipe.
After a lot of trial fitting, I'm happy with the fit & so welded the pieces together:
I'm also going to have to extend the 'middle' box section, as the pipe fouls the drive shaft in loaded situations. I did make this one up earlier, but it does need adjustment.
I hope to get this sorted & the car back on the road very soon.
.Anyway, the exhaust manifold was cracked which didn't help with the tuning, nor the sound it made
so I've managed to get another one.I've also been making up a better exhaust from parts I have. The really early cars had a different setup to most early ones & I'm coming up with a compromise, given that I scrapped the original one about 9 years ago, so don't have it for a pattern :roll: .
I've made up a front pipe without a can on it & will run it as a 2 can system & see how it goes. It probably should have a can after the downpipe.
After a lot of trial fitting, I'm happy with the fit & so welded the pieces together:
I'm also going to have to extend the 'middle' box section, as the pipe fouls the drive shaft in loaded situations. I did make this one up earlier, but it does need adjustment.
I hope to get this sorted & the car back on the road very soon.
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Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I had the car out for a decent run yesterday. The exhaust manifold is still blowing, which I presume is because I haven't tightened it enough. Does anyone know the torque measurement because I can't find it anywhere? I was concerned not to overtighten as I didn't want to crack the new manifold.
Also on the run, the ignition light came on for a while, but only glowing dimly. The battery was charged to about 12.88V before the 15 miles & was about 12.40V when I returned. The headlights (candles :roll: ) were on for much of the journey.
Another matter was a significant flat spot which developed after about 7 miles. Up to then it was fine. I can't see any obvious causes. Could the blowing manifold contribute to this?
It looks like I'm having an extended period of 'shakedown', but I'm still pleased with what I've managed to do
Also on the run, the ignition light came on for a while, but only glowing dimly. The battery was charged to about 12.88V before the 15 miles & was about 12.40V when I returned. The headlights (candles :roll: ) were on for much of the journey.
Another matter was a significant flat spot which developed after about 7 miles. Up to then it was fine. I can't see any obvious causes. Could the blowing manifold contribute to this?
It looks like I'm having an extended period of 'shakedown', but I'm still pleased with what I've managed to do
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
No I haven't had it skimmed, Chris. It was off an early-ish car, so may be pitted on the inner surface but I don't recall seeing anything abnormal. I've fitted the correct new gaskets, but no sealing paste of any kind.
On another point; you commented about your '64 car's build date in an earlier post as 22/4/64 & 'out' 27/4/64 for chassis 179. Presumably this was no. 3179, as mine's 3670
On another point; you commented about your '64 car's build date in an earlier post as 22/4/64 & 'out' 27/4/64 for chassis 179. Presumably this was no. 3179, as mine's 3670
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I've had another look tonight at the charging issue. These two pictures were taken 6 minutes apart:
The engine was warm & idling reasonably smoothly.
The IGN light only glows when the accelerator is pressed :?
Any help would be appreciated... I'm not great at electrics!
The engine was warm & idling reasonably smoothly.
The IGN light only glows when the accelerator is pressed :?
Any help would be appreciated... I'm not great at electrics!
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Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Many thanks Graeme.
Do you know if this would be the same for the dynamo in my car rather than an alternator?
Do you know if this would be the same for the dynamo in my car rather than an alternator?
Dave3066
Well-Known Member
Phil
Yes much the same for dynamo charging systems. The RB340 dynamo control box is fully adjustable for voltage and current output. Have a look at Part 4 of this Lucas guide here.
In fact if you read my thread from here you'll see the readings I was getting when I was having problems. I ended up replacing the control box.
Dave
Yes much the same for dynamo charging systems. The RB340 dynamo control box is fully adjustable for voltage and current output. Have a look at Part 4 of this Lucas guide here.
In fact if you read my thread from here you'll see the readings I was getting when I was having problems. I ended up replacing the control box.
Dave
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that Dave. It should point me in the right direction.
I may get someone a bit more electrics-savvy to have a look, & relay your comments.
I may get someone a bit more electrics-savvy to have a look, & relay your comments.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for your help - I have now replaced the regulator & 'Hey-Presto' the IGN light has gone off, the headlights are actually useable & the wipers now manage to get across the screen before the rain stops .
So far, so good. Now I'm tackling the lack of panel & clock lights which I see are routed through the same inline fuse, numbered 27 on this +ve earth 2000 wiring diagram:
My problem is quite simple - where is this fuse? Here's a picture of the back of a (later) strip speedo unit:
As far as I can tell, the panel light rheostat on the left middle of this picture should be fed from this fuse, but I can't find it anywhere on my car; under the dash or otherwise. I presume the feed wire should be red as noted above the fuse on the diagram (an 'R' on its side) & this will be the same colour between the fuse & the rheostat as it is before the fuse.
Please - does anyone know where the fuse is?
.So far, so good. Now I'm tackling the lack of panel & clock lights which I see are routed through the same inline fuse, numbered 27 on this +ve earth 2000 wiring diagram:
My problem is quite simple - where is this fuse? Here's a picture of the back of a (later) strip speedo unit:
As far as I can tell, the panel light rheostat on the left middle of this picture should be fed from this fuse, but I can't find it anywhere on my car; under the dash or otherwise. I presume the feed wire should be red as noted above the fuse on the diagram (an 'R' on its side) & this will be the same colour between the fuse & the rheostat as it is before the fuse.
Please - does anyone know where the fuse is?
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Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Rubythursday
Member
I had a 64 model about 30 years ago so memory a bit dodgy but I think the fuse you have highlighted was an inline fuse under the bonnet branching off the main harness. It is just a vague recollection though.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
You've got a good memory, Tony!Rubythursday said:
This is it:
...and now I have panel (& clock) lights
Fuel gauge still to fix!
Backing into the garage tonight, I've just spotted that the brake lights are only working intermittently, so I would think it's the pressure switch that will need changing next :roll: .
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Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Well the intermittent brake lights was down to the switch which I have now replaced; now they work as they should
I haven't done much to OCC since Christmas, although I have run her out several times. This is what salt & and sitting in a cold garage does whilst you're not looking...
Admittedly this wheel was just grinder - wire brushed & painted, but a bit disappointing nonetheless The moral must be to avoid the salt, as many of you will do. I have a bit of work to do on Hazel as well from the same issue I suppose, & have just started another thread.
I haven't done much to OCC since Christmas, although I have run her out several times. This is what salt & and sitting in a cold garage does whilst you're not looking...
Admittedly this wheel was just grinder - wire brushed & painted, but a bit disappointing nonetheless
The moral must be to avoid the salt, as many of you will do. I have a bit of work to do on Hazel as well from the same issue I suppose, & have just started another thread.Attachments
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I've been replacing OCC's front parcel shelf today as the original one had got very scratched as well as the driver's vent control being missing.
Of course, one job led to another & I decided to refurbish the veneered dash wood inserts whilst I was on:
By carefully using 100 grade wet or dry with water, I sanded off the varnish & cleaned the veneer up.
After 3 coats of varnish, each 'wire-woolled' when dry to make them really smooth, the trim looked excellent & I've put it back in the car. I'll take a picture in the next day or so.
Of course, one job led to another & I decided to refurbish the veneered dash wood inserts whilst I was on:
By carefully using 100 grade wet or dry with water, I sanded off the varnish & cleaned the veneer up.
After 3 coats of varnish, each 'wire-woolled' when dry to make them really smooth, the trim looked excellent & I've put it back in the car. I'll take a picture in the next day or so.
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Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I fortunately obtained an early face-level vent several years ago for just this job. The levers are different as you can see; the early ones have a serrated end & are slightly shorter. It's as though they were designed to be operated by a thumb on the end.
Here is the dash with the vent removed:
I ensured I put enough 'Dum-dum' on again
Interestingly, the early vent flaps have some stickers on the back:
You can also just make out the 'nibbled' edge of the top flap. The material used seems to be a less resilient sort of plastic; this sort of damage was very evident on the front rail of the shelf.
Here is the dash with the vent removed:
I ensured I put enough 'Dum-dum' on again
Interestingly, the early vent flaps have some stickers on the back:
You can also just make out the 'nibbled' edge of the top flap. The material used seems to be a less resilient sort of plastic; this sort of damage was very evident on the front rail of the shelf.
