OCC 469 - restoring & running a "sharkstooth" 2000
- Thread starter Phil Robson
- Start date
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
OCC is slowly getting there now, with the MOT hopefully just a few weeks away although I've put a list together of things still to do, which is longer than I originally thought (aren't they always? :roll: ). I'm facing reality in that it won't be ready for Bowes... 
I've just had the 'core plug' out of the side plate due to water leaking when I first filled & ran the engine. I made a tool to tighten it properly in situ as it's difficult to get to. Just to be sure I put some gasket sealer on & hope it stops leaking now.
No doubt there'll be plenty of 'snagging' to do when I get it on the road & it's probably best that I'll do some local runs before attempting something more challenging! I've therefore entered it in the NECPWA Sledmere Rally at the end of June. I hope I can make that one!
I've also obtained a Heritage Certificate confirming the car was built on 28 April 1964. Happy 50th birthday!
I've just had the 'core plug' out of the side plate due to water leaking when I first filled & ran the engine. I made a tool to tighten it properly in situ as it's difficult to get to. Just to be sure I put some gasket sealer on & hope it stops leaking now.
No doubt there'll be plenty of 'snagging' to do when I get it on the road & it's probably best that I'll do some local runs before attempting something more challenging! I've therefore entered it in the NECPWA Sledmere Rally at the end of June. I hope I can make that one!
I've also obtained a Heritage Certificate confirming the car was built on 28 April 1964. Happy 50th birthday!
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redrover
Well-Known Member
Aesthetically, the original 2000 engine bay is just so clean and neat isn't it? The series 2 didn't look anywhere near as clean with the V8 slam panel. In so many ways the purer versions of the beast.Phil Robson said:
But I wouldn't surrender my series 2 for daily driving - there are just so many more refinements and upgrades. Also regard the series 2 as equally handsome, just in different sort of way.
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
MOT time must now be very close after the clutch was freed off (per separate post). I've also modified & realigned the exhaust that was fouling the driveshaft & perilously close to the rear caliper, so now everything fits well.
However, now the brakes want to stick on! With the engine off, when the pedal is pushed & down & returns the brakes lights come on & off as normal. If the engine is on though, the brakes get very hard quickly & are difficult to press. The brake lights stay on permanently as well. I was advised that I may have got a seal the wrong way round ( ) but these symptoms suggest that the servo is at fault. I will take it apart & inspect the seals, but could it be the air valve not returning properly?
However, now the brakes want to stick on! With the engine off, when the pedal is pushed & down & returns the brakes lights come on & off as normal. If the engine is on though, the brakes get very hard quickly & are difficult to press. The brake lights stay on permanently as well. I was advised that I may have got a seal the wrong way round (
) but these symptoms suggest that the servo is at fault. I will take it apart & inspect the seals, but could it be the air valve not returning properly?
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Well, I've sorted the brakes by rebuilding the servo (again!). However, I did find that the air valve wasn't working properly which meant that the atmospheric pressure remained behind the diaphragm even when the brake pedal was released. This meant that the brakes stayed on which of course kept the brake lights on.
Next problem is that the handbrake has got stuck on, so I'll have to disconnect it from underneath & put a replacement lever in. The button doesn't release the ratchet.
Another problem is the engine timing, which the book says should be 6deg ATDC for early cars. Running on unleaded should mean a bit more retarded, but my problem is that I can't find any suitable timing marks. When I look past the timing cover there don't appear to be any 'After' markings at all!
The lower marking in the picture is 'TDC' & the markings above it are degrees BTDC.
Incidentally the engine does seem to run well with it estimated at 6 deg After TDC, so I presumably run with that. Any thoughts, please?
Next problem is that the handbrake has got stuck on, so I'll have to disconnect it from underneath & put a replacement lever in. The button doesn't release the ratchet.
Another problem is the engine timing, which the book says should be 6deg ATDC for early cars. Running on unleaded should mean a bit more retarded, but my problem is that I can't find any suitable timing marks. When I look past the timing cover there don't appear to be any 'After' markings at all!
The lower marking in the picture is 'TDC' & the markings above it are degrees BTDC.
Incidentally the engine does seem to run well with it estimated at 6 deg After TDC, so I presumably run with that. Any thoughts, please?
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Phil Robson said:
Either:
Measure the distance between TDC and 6BTDC, and measure and mark the same distance the other side of TDC to give a mark to set to.
Or:
Set to TDC, and then retard it using the calibrations on the vernier on the distributor.
Or: If you have a timing light with built in advance, set the light to 354 degrees BTDC, and then when you set it to the TDC mark, it will be at 6 ATDC. (I think.....You might be lucky and have a light that will calibrate ATDC)
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Thanks once again, Harvey.
I've now got the engine running reasonably smoothly & hope to put the car in for MOT next week. One problem I had was that I'd fitted the air box gasket upside down which seemed to block some air passages! That's quite a few mistakes I've made, but I've got the car to this stage from what was a genuine basket case with a seized engine, so I am very pleased :
And here's another:
I've now got the engine running reasonably smoothly & hope to put the car in for MOT next week. One problem I had was that I'd fitted the air box gasket upside down
which seemed to block some air passages! That's quite a few mistakes I've made, but I've got the car to this stage from what was a genuine basket case with a seized engine, so I am very pleased :And here's another:
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jamesdean2112
Active Member
Excellent work there Phil. luck forward to seeing it in the flesh
christopher storey
Member
In nearly 60 years of playing with engines I have never yet seen an engine with ignition timing after TDC. The reason for progressive ignition advance as speed rises is that the flame front travels at a constant speed of about 120 feet per second, and thus if the process is initiated just before tdc the flame front is just about reaching the piston as it starts its downwards journey in the bore. For an SC I think you will find that the correct setting is 6 degs Before TDC . This is why the timing marks are all on the advanced side of the flywheel teeth
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Yeah, that makes sense!
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Re: Lights Camera Action .... & MOT!
OCC 469 passed her MOT first time today - 36 years after the last one :shock:
She's not finished yet; I think it'll be next year before I get the rest of the panels done as I've got some work to do on the V8s, but she's on the road again!
Here are a few celebratory pictures:
OCC 469 passed her MOT first time today - 36 years after the last one :shock:
She's not finished yet; I think it'll be next year before I get the rest of the panels done as I've got some work to do on the V8s, but she's on the road again!
Here are a few celebratory pictures:
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Willy Eckerslyke
Well-Known Member
Oh well done!
36 years must be some sort of a record.
36 years must be some sort of a record.
jamesdean2112
Active Member
Excellent work mate, well done on passing the mot
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Have now completed 50 miles without a major hitch!
However, the ignition light has come on for a while (& has now gone off); probably dynamo brushes or control box? There's also a bit of a knock from the exhaust & a bit of a rubbing sound to check out. I expected some teething problems & otherwise it has driven well, so I'm not too unhappy.
However, the ignition light has come on for a while (& has now gone off); probably dynamo brushes or control box? There's also a bit of a knock from the exhaust & a bit of a rubbing sound to check out. I expected some teething problems & otherwise it has driven well, so I'm not too unhappy.
Rubythursday
Member
Smart!