leaky rears and rebuilds

arthuy

Well-Known Member
Just typical,

I have booked an MOT for monday and was checking the car over when I spotted a drip or two from the rear drivers side caliper. I rebuilt them about 18 months ago and except for shuffling about the back yard the car has only done 30 miles.

Luckily when I did the callipers I decided that I never wanted to repeat the experience. So I have a spare set on stand by ready to go on.

I was wondering though if anyone else had problems with the kits. I must say I took the cheapest option saving about £10 for the 4 caliper kits. I bought them from a company which was sponsoring a page or so in Practical classics. I was a bit disappoionted when they arrieved because they weren't Lucas or lockheed. they were in sealable plastic pouches, they didn't have red grease or directions, but were complete. If I had known they were what they were I would have just got the kits from lucas as I was happy with the kits I got form wadhams for the master cylinder and servo which were lucas and lockheed.

I will strip the caliper down and find out why it has burst a seal. I suppose it is a lesson in buying good quality parts.
 
I find the problem with these things is lack of use, for some reason rubber bits tend to perish when not used, same seams to apply to power stearing racks (on rover 800's) ok when the car was parked, but leaking fluid everywhere when started again 6months later.

I rebuilt my rears a couple of years ago with a similar kit, and have had no problems since, maybe just bad luck ?

Richard :)
 
Richard,

You are probably right about the bad luck. I will strip it down to get tp the bottom of it.
 
I spent all day yesterday and a bit of the night too.

I took both rears off for an inspection and removed the leaky one. I openend the dustcover and it was full of fulid which explains why it had been seeping through the dust covers seal.

I have two spare sets, so got to work putting the spare on and would sort the leaker later. got them on and the fulid was coming straight out like a water fall.

So I turned my attention to the original leaker. Obviously the pistion seal had failed so I took it apart and had a look. there was thin rusty type line around the seal. (lack of use) cleanend and put back together. I tested it by making up a pipe to go from the unit to the pipe from the cars system, got a lovley aasistant to pump the brake. observing no leaks and good operating I put them back on again.

Will get them bled today.

As for the good spare. well I took the cover off and had a look, This was the spare set which get canabalised, there was no piston !! which explains the accelerated rate of fluid loss. Never assume eh!

The car is going for the MOT tomorrow. providing this fix has worked I don't see much else couple of tyres for sure.

Fingers crossed. :)
 
Just as I thought, lack of use.

I usually smear a little copper grease on the outside of the piston, helps prevent the rust line you mentioned.

Fingers crossed !

Richard
 
Oh, just had a thought, did you replace the "oily paper" that is fitted inside the cover ?, not entirely sure if this should be oiled or soaked in brake fluid, but I guess its there to help stop the rust.

Perhaps somebody else can put me straight on that one.

Richard
 
I left the paper in it's soaked condition.

The good news is that the rear calliper didn't leak again. bad news is it failed the MOT. Head lights aim is to low. brakes un even - rears due to being taken off -- front due to a warp in a calliper. steering idler to much play. Missing split pins from front steering rod (oh dear! especially since previous owner was an MOT tester), a hole within 30cm of a mount. just behind the shipping eye on the cross member, and the emissions were 1900blah blaha and the limit is 1200.

Not to bad considering that it is over 4 years since the last MOT test and I have been working on her for exactly 2 years. I have done the panels, new bushes, rebuilt the whole brake system, electrics, exhaust and spent many hours with a mig welder and grinder. I was really worried that I would have failed for the welding, If you ever see it you will know. I have patched floor to sill for the entire length on both sides. All this and I have zero mechanical, welding auto electrical training.

Hopefully this time next week I will be scooting around in my p6. I will then be getting a respray.
 
At the last MOT I questioned the tester with regards to the patches. My convertible having huge sections replaced plus numerous patches of which many are replacements for earlier patches.

The tester told me that it didn't matter how many repairs were done as long as they were done to a good standard.

Sounds like a list of problems but when you look closer its probably no more than a days work.

Good Luck

Richard :)
 
Hi Richard,

I was worried about the welding I had done because I hadn't welded before or had the standards checked.

Quite right a days work. I got an idler from a friend, so a patch on the crossmember, tweek of the carbs and I will be rolling.

I have had a bit of a time getting a new set of front discs. I didn't think they were sold individually. the price varies but looks like wadhams is best at £30 +vat. I called the Practical classic favorite for interest £59.60+Vat. Theses guys are never cheaper and nearly twice the price without fail, though they are very helpful and friendly.
 
I bought my last pair from a run of the mill local motor factors, you'd be suprised how much is available, and you won't find them cheaper anywhere else.

If you have a "Partco" or "Andrew Page" near you give them a call.

Richard
 
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