just a yoke question...no joke

ButterFingers

ButterFingers

Active Member
hi there,
today I had to remove the prop shaft to gain access to the gear stick connection for the bush replacement (auto box). I had always believed that the 2 yokes had to line up and be in the same plane?
Mine were not in the same plain, so when refitting do I adjust on the spline to make the 2 yokes(one each end) line up?
Peter
 
.My 2000/2200 Rover workshop manual states they should line up with each other. An original shaft should have an arrow stamped on both the male splined sleeve and the female outer tube and one should line these two up on assembly. . Often they are faint and difficult to find. Its not always the case, such as Land Rover front axles with coil springs, when the differential is tilted up relative to the gearbox flange.
 
most shafts that use UJ's each end will be in alignment and balanced thus. so ideally inline is best. this is not set in curette though.
 
ButterFingers said:
I had always believed that the 2 yokes had to line up and be in the same plane?
Mine were not in the same plain, so when refitting do I adjust on the spline to make the 2 yokes(one each end) line up?
Click to expand...

Hi Peter,

For most cars, the yokes at each end are in phase, but in the case of the Rover 3500 and 3500S, they are not. There are two arrows, one over the top of the sliding joint ( down from the yoke), the other on the tailshaft. These need to aline, else your tailshaft will be unbalanced. Unlike most cars, the Rover's tailshaft is correctly balanced when the yokes are not in phase.

Ron.
 
roverp480 said:
.My 2000/2200 Rover workshop manual states they should line up with each other.
Click to expand...

Rarely do I look in the book, but your comment prompted me to go visit, and in my 2000/2200 FWM it says nothing about making sure the yokes are in line, only that the arrows must be lined up.
 
And when the arrows line up, the yokes do not align as Ron says. However, it is not a balance problem that is being sorted here. Rover was deliberately introducing an out-of-phase vibration in the shaft to counteract another vibration in the driveline, my guess being the long input extension on the rear end.

Yours
Vern
 
Vern Klukas said:
Rover was deliberately introducing an out-of-phase vibration in the shaft to counteract another vibration in the driveline, my guess being the long input extension on the rear end.
Click to expand...

Hi Vern,

That is very interesting, in order to eliminate a vibration, they introduce another, but 180 degrees out of phase, so the odd and even harmonics will cancel each other. Fourier series, lots of enjoyable advanced mathematics to work with.

Ron.
 
thank you all for your input, a thought occurred to me..........if I have 2 yokes, would not lining up indicate that they are Free Range, caged or paddock :rolleyes:
 
an update to the yokes and arrows pointing ?
I examined the prop shaft and after sanding a bit found the arrows, but pointing in different directions to the workshop manual pictureP7123070.JPG P7123072.JPG P7123072.JPG So when it is painted and looking good I will slide the front off the splines and adjust the arrows.
now another problem has emerged:-
I have extracted the auto gear leaver and cannot get the plastic bush off the ball end. It is held there by a pin in a hole, see pictures.P7123074.JPG P7123075.JPG
How do I replace the bush?

Peter
 

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Knock the pin out first. I'd replace the nylon bush too. They look fine but disintegrate at the slightest touch after 40 yrs.
 
hi there,
I cant push the nylon bush off the ball because it is held there with the pin (see hole in picture)
I have a new bush to replace the old one and after going to the trouble of getting the leaver out of the car, it seems a shame to have to just put it back again without a new one.
The pin is the problem, it goes in from one side only and there is no obvious way of extracting it with out destroying the old one, which would be nice to keep as a spare?o_O

Peter
 
Yoke and gearbox leaver update today:
I could not get the old bush off, so left it on after cleaning and lubrication with new grease. Reinstalled it , a very fiddly job by one self , but finally done. The operation is still very stiff once connected to the gearbox cable.
So my conclusion is that the gear-change cable is the culprit, and need lubrication. Not sure if its the type of cable that can be oiled , some modern cables are nylon lined and need no lubrication!
only have to refit the newly painted prop shaft and job done.
Now to tackle the re-positioning of the choke cable, see other post.
Slow to start P6 V8

Peter
 
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ButterFingers said:
an update to the yokes and arrows pointing ?
I examined the prop shaft and after sanding a bit found the arrows, but pointing in different directions to the workshop manual picture
Click to expand...

I've not seen the arrow on the short yoke that way around. The bloke stamping them was probably bored that day....
 
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