Interested in a P6

zaph

New Member
I am tempted by a P6, the twin carb 4 cylinder ones take my fancy and there are few around at a tempting price.

However I owned a Triumph Dolomite or more accurately a kit to make a Triumph Dolomite when I have fixed all the problems with it. Including the dread tinworm. Put it this way, before I bought that car I couldn't weld, now I am fairly competent with a mig welder.

Which brings me to my question. How easy is it to repair the structural part of a P6? In theory it sounds easier than a conventional car. Unbolt the bodywork and weld up what is underneath. Welding for strength and not having to worry about getting an invisible weld, like you do with a conventional monocoque.

However my guess is, in reality, it aint that simple. So how easy is it to fix a rotten P6?
 
Both easy and hard.. the majority of a P6 bodyshell is fairly straightforward, the exception being the sills.

They're effectively a box section, an inner and an outer. I'd probably only trust Clive Annable or Colin Gould to properly do them.. and they're not cheap when done properly.
 
Both easy and hard.. the majority of a P6 bodyshell is fairly straightforward, the exception being the sills.

They're effectively a box section, an inner and an outer. I'd probably only trust Clive Annable or Colin Gould to properly do them.. and they're not cheap when done properly.

How complicated is the construction? I have welded sills before and most are effectively box sections, generally with a reinforcing panel inside.
 
It is not only the sills. The D posts are rather complicated (complex shape, double skined, it is structural part for the rear end), even if you buy ready made replacement panels. Also the bulkhead is complicated, because it carries the front suspension and has built in ducts for the heater system.
If you take a look at the various projects that are posted in this forum, you will get an idea for what is involved. There is everything in there, from the simplest rebuilds, to the most complicated restorations.
 
Depends on how bad the car is really. I’ve had a bit of welding to do on mine, but not as much as many have had to do. The repairs I’ve had to do have been very straight forward.

It’s probably better to buy the best you can afford, rather than trying to fix up a really rotten car. The cost of panels and any paint work will more than eat up the price difference between a bad car and a reasonable one, and that’s before you add any labour if you’re getting professional help.

I have a 2200TC, they're a great car but sadly often overlooked as most people want the V8
 
Depends on how bad the car is really. I’ve had a bit of welding to do on mine, but not as much as many have had to do. The repairs I’ve had to do have been very straight forward.

It’s probably better to buy the best you can afford, rather than trying to fix up a really rotten car. The cost of panels and any paint work will more than eat up the price difference between a bad car and a reasonable one, and that’s before you add any labour if you’re getting professional help.

I have a 2200TC, they're a great car but sadly often overlooked as most people want the V8
Ditto on buying the best you can! As to the 2200TC, while I have a pair of lovely V8s, knowledgable folks say that 2200TC is the one to look for!
 
rover P6 prices are comparatively low compared to car same condition by other makes. do read up what tis look for and ideally take along somebody whom knows about them and where to look such as under rear seat cushion etc . tin worm can get involved and panels might not be so easy to replace as on some cars due to complexity etc . lot to be said for buying best you can afford. 22tc has good rep and performs well on road with modern traffic .avoid base 2000's models . ideally get power steering a this was an option and leather seats are always better than cloth. a road test drive ought to be mandatory . you get a lot of body roll on a P6 and this can be disconcerting until you get used to it. check normal places for Tinworm and obvious fluid leaks . if theres a file for history. spares etc then thats a bonus. Good luck but do try and. get a look at. few before buying. eg rover meets? Enfield pageant? etc where you can see and talk to owners plus many will b happy to let you have sit in and good peek at everything . decent owners will tell you areas to check..
 
Ditto on buying the best you can! As to the 2200TC, while I have a pair of lovely V8s, knowledgable folks say that 2200TC is the one to look for!

I prefer the early 2000's, single carb.. handles and even performs better than a 2200TC
 
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