how is the V8 engine dirty?

Seems, that I still have to learn a lot about the RV8....
I had bought a new filter for it (not knowing, that it is an in-goeing filter) and wondered about the difference to the flame traps. The arrow on the filter which was previously installed pointed "out of the valley", but when it is for fresh air into the valley, it seems that it was mounted the wrong way.
 
The arrow on the filter which was previously installed pointed "out of the valley", but when it is for fresh air into the valley, it seems that it was mounted the wrong way.
Lots of people simply use an in-line fuel filter, and as it's filtering air, the arrow is largely irrelevant for that purpose.
 
If you look at this picture, you'll see a row of bolts just under the line of the spark plugs. There are 5 here, and 5 under the rocker covers. Now look carefully beside the dipstick, under the third plug, and you'll see that the head bolt is missing.



These are 14 bolt heads, but the block is designed for 10 bolt heads, so the outer 4 are left out. 10 bolt heads will not have the holes at all.

To clean the flame traps, use a small amount of petrol, outside and swish them about. Carb cleaner will do the job as well, just keep on squirting it in until the oil and muck has gone. Don't smoke with that stuff, it is highly flammable!

Richard

I have just checked mine and it has 5 bolts on the top and four on the btm= 14 bolts on both sides...= dirty engine?
Peter
BTW, awesome engine presentation...:)
 
so are we talking about the actual flame traps, being replaced with conventional fuel line filters, the plastic ones readily available in parts shops?
Peter

Not quite, the small filter goes between the air filter can and the port on the block at the back of the valley. The flame traps stay as they are between rocker covers and carbs.

Oily air is sucked out of the engine via the rocker covers and into the carbs, this creates a slight vacuum in the block which helps prevent leaks and stops you getting the smell of hot 20/50.

Fresh air is admitted at the back of the valley via the small filter. I guess the filter just adds a slight restriction, otherwise if air could flow in too freely you'd never get the negative pressure required in the crankcase.
 
Not quite, the small filter goes between the air filter can and the port on the block at the back of the valley. The flame traps stay as they are between rocker covers and carbs.

Oily air is sucked out of the engine via the rocker covers and into the carbs, this creates a slight vacuum in the block which helps prevent leaks and stops you getting the smell of hot 20/50.

Fresh air is admitted at the back of the valley via the small filter. I guess the filter just adds a slight restriction, otherwise if air could flow in too freely you'd never get the negative pressure required in the crankcase.

Exactly as Quagmire has so eloquently described.
 
If the car has been well maintained during its life with correct oil +changes and flame traps replaced at correct intervals then they don't get that dirty, I've never had that problem.
By the time you see crusted / carboned engine internals it's not been serviced correctly or insufficient oil changes as some owners do very small milage and could take 3 years or more to do 3000 miles by that time the old 20/50 oil would be knackered.
Clive.
 
If the car has been well maintained during its life with correct oil +changes and flame traps replaced at correct intervals then they don't get that dirty, I've never had that problem.
By the time you see crusted / carboned engine internals it's not been serviced correctly or insufficient oil changes as some owners do very small mileage and could take 3 years or more to do 3000 miles by that time the old 20/50 oil would be knackered.
Clive.

with all my old cars, regardless of mileage, I have always changed the oil every 6 months, my fence post will never ever rot , but last year , with a paddock fire , caught alight and took lots of water to distinguish, burnt merrily for ages, such is life....
Peter
 
Another reason why synthetic is such a boon on modern cars which sadly we can't really use. It's far more stable over time as well as temperature so low mileages are less of a problem.

what's the thinking on synthetic is a newly rebuilt, totally spotless engine?
 
what's the thinking on synthetic is a newly rebuilt, totally spotless engine?

Hi Peter,

The 4.0 and 4.6 litre engines that appeared in the P38 Range Rover and Discovery used a semi synthetic oil, either a 10W50 or 15W50 from memory. This was largely due to the higher running temperatures that the engines were operating at. The thermostat had an opening temperature of 96 degrees C, with a normal running temperature of 100 degrees C or so.

Ron.
 
I had a 1985 rover vitesse some years ago and the handbook specified 10/40 semi synthetic which I used.
You could probably use that in a p6 if you use SD1/ high volume kit on a freshly built engine.
Regarding classic oils having extra zinc, never had any issues using the 10 /40 not sure if they new much about zinc in oils then.
Clive.
 
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