HOK 36L - 2000TC Progress Report.

#1
Finally, I can now start this thread after 3 years of P6 ownership, just sold my MGB and have moved the P6 into its spot in the garage and is now on blocks so I can work on it more easily.
Up till now I was restricted to the other end of the garage where it is narrower but I have managed to so far - refurbish the front brake calipers, the clutch master and slave cylinders and the pipework inbetween, fit a new fuel pump and renew the pipework to the tank, the tank itself was leaking and thick with rust inside so was scrapped and I have just sourced a replacement tank which will go on after the welding is completed - safety first!
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The picture above shows the car in situ, the wheels are all about 13 inches off the ground and gives good clearance with a car creeper. I made the blocks myself and are totally solid and stable, the MGB sat on them for nearly 4 years with no issues.
Going back to work completed, I have removed both outer sill covers and have welded the offside sill at both ends and I am currently focusing my attention to the nearside sill which I must admit is a lot easier now the car is where it is and up on blocks, it's also nice having all the tools within reach.
I have also just repaired my fuel sender that fits in the tank, yes I know that you can buy them new but I always try to mend anything if I can and I do like to think that I've saved a few quid. 1 (12).jpg 1 (13).jpg 1 (14).jpg
The pictures show the fuel sender cleaned up and with a new plate with the resistance wire screwed to it, I have reused the arm with a new float attached, I bought a new sender for a Range Rover for £18 and just used the bits I needed, this is considerably less than buying a complete new unit. I have tested it out on the car and is good to go.
I am currently sorting out my pics from when I repaired the o/s sill and as I am now in the process of repairing the n/s sill, I intend to give a more detailed analysis of this with plenty of pics, I know this is well documented on this forum but this is my take on it and hopefully will be of interest to someone, so watch this space, will be back soon.

Cheers, Phil.
 
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#3
Thanks for that, funnilly enough, I've just seen the same sender for a Range Rover classic on the bay for £9, I'm gutted, it cost me £18
 
#4
In my initial welcome post on this forum I was wearing rose tinted specs and was really pleased with my purchase, having removed them and over 3 years later, I now love it, I like the way its put together, and even now cannot get over the way the doors shut with a satisfying clunk.

I have sorted some pics of the repair to the o/s sill, I couldn't find them all but have some to show, below is the rear of the sill showing the extent of the rot which is probably the worst on the whole of the car.
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This is shown after cutting some of the rot out, at first I thought how am I going to reconstruct this? but one bit of steel at a time welded in, I ended up with this below, not the prettiest of welding but it is strong and solid.
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Quite a lot of work involved here, cutting numerous pieces of cardboard templates and then transfering onto steel and welding in.
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Eventually it ended up as above, strong and solid and finished with copius amounts of underseal.

Below is a pic of the front part of the sill after welding a plate in and then undersealing.
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That's it for the o/s sill repair as I seem to have lost a lot of pics but rest assured I am currently working on the n/s sill and trying to capture the process in detail which will be coming up soon.
 
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#5
Back again at last with the next installment, have been busy with my 16 year old new daily driver so the P6 has been waiting in the wings.

Below is the front of the n/s sill ready to be plated up with new steel.
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Next the steel cut and ready to weld in.
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Now welded in and dressed and primed. 20180522_204021-1024x614.jpg
Quite a simple repair as only one piece of steel to be welded in.

Next the rear of the n/s sill and the final part of the welding, this took 3 pieces to weld in.
Below the first piece of steel cut and bent to shape.
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Now in place and ready to weld.
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Welded in place.
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Finally dressed.
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The rear piece now welded in.
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The final piece now welded in and all dressed up, repair now completed more or less apart from paint and maybe a bit more tidying up along the bottom lip with my favourite tool, the power file.
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The base frame is now complete as far as welding goes, I am glad as mig welding is not easy and can be a bit frustrating at times to say the least, must admit I think I got away lightly as only the sill ends needed attention, the rest of the frame appears to be solid.

My attention has now turned to the rear suspension and is currently undergoing a complete strip down and refurbishment.
 
#7
I am amazed at what you have achieved working on/under wooden blocks , lying on your back welding, grinding and cutting..
when finished , you will know so much of the interment details of this car that , having an affair would seem like a day in the local kindergarten, making mud pies and fairy cakes?
well done and keep the pictures coming on..:rolleyes:
Peter
 
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PeterZRH

Well-Known Member
#8
That's a really tidy job. You should be proud of the results. It's almost a shame no one will see it!

Welding is a funny thing. There is a great deal of skill involved (I've tried but have none) but so often I see work done at home better than much of what is done professionally. That's a function of the amount of time fabricating. Let me guess, that was a good 20 or so hours work.

My car has a very solid fix in this area but I really need to have it dug-out and done to this standard. For now as it passes my highly scientific "jack it up, open the doors and 18 stone of me jumping up and down on the sills" test I'm happy.
 
#10
Thanks for all your comments, most appreciated, it was a bit of a struggle at times especially when you are lying on your back with a mask on and trying to get enough light on the work area, am just glad that it's done.
Below is one more picture showing the rear of the n/s sill after a bit more tidying up and primer.
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I have now turned my attention to the rear suspension and brakes, originally I was just going to drop the diff out to work on the rear brakes but since reading about failures on the de dion elbows and the lower arm literally breaking away, I decided to go for a full suspension strip out and refurb.
I have now stripped the complete rear suspension out, after looking at it I decided to do it bit by bit rather than drop the whole lot in one go, I won't give a step by step commentry as I'm sure that this is all too familiar to a lot of you, but below are some highlights for your perusal as I know you all like pics.

Bolts removed from drive shaft.
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Drive shaft separated.
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Brake disc now removed.
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Top link parted.
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De dion tube removed.
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De dion tube parted.
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Bottom link showing condition of bush.
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Front bottom link anchor point on base frame.
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Drive shafts cleaned up on the bench.
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The old bushes were removed and the de dion elbows, springs, bottom links and top links are all now at the shot blasters, believe it or not in my eagerness to get them there I forgot to take before pics, so you will have to make do with the after pics when they are back any day soon.
 
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Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#11
It looks like your differential drive shaft seals may need replacing in the diff. A faff of a job because of the removal & refitting of the collar, but well worth doing whilst everything is apart.
 
#12
Yes, I was concerned about the seals, the diff's coming off soon so I will have a look, there's certainly enough to keep me busy, there's also the brakes to do as well.
Just looking at your thread Phil and I can see that you've done a great job on your rear suspension so looks like I'm in good company here on this forum.
 
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#13
Well the suspension parts are back from the blasters at last and are shown below, will have to get it painted soon before rust starts to appear again!
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I am well pleased with the end result, I think they look great for 45 years old!
I have given all of it the once over for any signs of cracks or holes, overall it seems ok and all the steel is still solid and has a good ring to it when tapped with the magic pin hammer, the all important bottom fixings on the elbows that support the lower arms are one of the main areas of concern and the pics below show one of them, the 2nd pic of the inner shows pitting to the steel which is evidence of corrosion, but it's still solid and would probably be ok. To be on the safe side I intend to weld some extra steel on the outer side to provide piece of mind.
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Have also been busy removing the diff so coming up soon.
 
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#14
Have now completely removed the diff, I am a bit of a chancer so I probably didn't do it the easiest way.

Below, propshaft seperated at diff.
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Rear bar released from diff.
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Diff waiting for 2 bolts to be removed and brake pipe to be cut.
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Took me ages to work out where the top nuts were hidden, under these covers in the boot.
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Diff now dropped onto some wheels.
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Eventually got it down on the floor with handbrake cable still attached, seems I forgot about this. 44-648x486.JPG
Cable now detached.
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Plenty of room under here now.
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Diff removed away from car ready for inspection.
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Now the diff and suspension is all removed I can't believe how easy all the nuts and bolts came off considering they have not been removed for 45 years, not sure if it's my particular car or P6's in general, now the work begins, plenty of cleaning, painting and refurbishing to do, must admit I am looking forward to the brakes believe it or not.
 
#16
I did wonder if springs would be any good but I just put them in with the rest of the stuff to be blasted for good measure, I suppose it would be false economy not to change them whilst suspension is all apart.
 
#17
Well I'm back again, can't believe it's been nearly a year since my last post, plenty to report and plenty of pics for you perusal. Have completed the total rebuild of the rear suspension and brakes and the car is now sitting back on its wheels, I have nearly finished replacing all the brake lines and hoses, also a new master cylinder and a refurbished servo, I have refitted the fuel tank and resprayed the boot lid.

Now some pics, below is the suspension parts in primer, decided not to use the old springs in the end.
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Reinforcing the de dion elbow for the lower arm linkage, the steel cut out.
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Then welded on.
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Dressed
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Finally, primer.
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This process was carried out on both sides of each lower arm and carefully inspected afterwards and seems to be successful.

Next up fitting the new bushes in, I decided to stay with rubber bushes from Wadhams and managed to insert them using the bench vice.
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Long bar needed on vice handle for the bigger one on lower arm.
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The vice held up and completed the task!
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Lets turn to the diff next, I decided to replace the drive shaft oil seals, I do like a challenge, I decided to machine the existing collars off and make some new ones on the lathe.
Below the drive shaft just removed in its housing.
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Machining off the collars on the lathe, very delicate operation, not much space.
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Nearly there.
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Now just slips off.
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Collar removed successfully, am replacing bearings so not bothered about the swarf everywhere.
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Remains of collar.
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Now lets remove the shaft.
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Can now see the oil seal ready to prise out.
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Removing the bearing.
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The diff drive shaft now disassembled on the bench.
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Will be back soon once I've sorted out the other pics.
 

Dave3066

Well-Known Member
#18
Lots of great work there. That was a hell of a lever on that bench vice for fitting those bushes. I tried that once and managed to crack the vice giving it too much force.
 
#20
Yes, I was taking a chance using the vice but it is an ancient Record vice, they dont make em like that anymore, forgot to mention that I did put the lower arm bushes in the freezer overnight, the top arm bushes are a lot smaller and went in easy.
 
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