Hiya, Newby here with a question.

R

Rocky-Rover

New Member
I have a 2200 TC 1974. I have just changes the clutch after a bit of a corrosion problem (clutch plate stuck on flywheel). The clutch pedal is now very very stiff and need a lot of effort to disengage, (as was the previous clutch). I can't see any adjustment anywhere (on the actuating arm). Scratching my head but thinking Is there different master and slave cylinders for different models/years ?. Thinking my problem is in the master/slave cylinders and hope it's not in the wrong clutch I have fitted ???
Thanks for any help
 
There are a lot of adjustments, so try setting it all up first, as follows
Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder (under the bonnet on the 3500S). At the pedal on a four pot
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up a little at a time.

There are two diameters of slave cylinder, if you want to reduce the pedal effort, you need the larger diameter. This will be at the expense of pedal travel.
 
Thanks Harvey, I will set this up as you have details, is it at all possible to have the wrong clutch supplied and fitted ? with different spring resistance ?
 
Not strictly relevant, but I do remember when I first got my 2200 thinking what an effort the clutch pedal was. But was comparing to modern cars. Never notice now, feels normal. I checked the pedal heights as described above during brake overhaul and all were right. If I let someone have a go, they also remark about the clutch (oh, and the brake pedal, and the steering!). Being used to it, I don't feel it's at all a heavy going car to drive, just reassuringly solid. No clutch issues after four years driving.
 
harveyp6 said:
There are a lot of adjustments, so try setting it all up first, as follows
Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder (under the bonnet on the 3500S). At the pedal on a four pot
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up a little at a time.

There are two diameters of slave cylinder, if you want to reduce the pedal effort, you need the larger diameter. This will be at the expense of pedal travel.
Click to expand...

Hi there

Thanks for this info.

I have a V8 S series car, I have as the 4 pot the threaded rod on the pedal not in the engine bay there it is all closed.
So V8 has also sometimes changes. Not a problem but it will work the same.

Is the operating arm forwards to rear of the car or the front? I have now seen that it is set to the front, so not excact vertical.
The book says pedal is 6 inch is 165.2 mm you say it needs 174.6 mm, it is 6 7/8? the & did confuse me. Dutch think in cm and mm.

The effort is quite heavy but the car was in barn for 42 years, so this ca be sticky what will be better in time.

regards






thanks.
 
The same method works for both V8 and 4 cylinder cars, it's just the place where you set the pedal height is in a different place.

I don't know what centimetres are......
 
harveyp6 said:
The same method works for both V8 and 4 cylinder cars, it's just the place where you set the pedal height is in a different place.

I don't know what centimeters are......
Click to expand...


Oke, cm mm and meter is normal here.

Not a problem, I can recalculate it. Question is the operating arm, do need this to get one spline over vertical in the direction
for disengage the clutch or is this in the direction of the front of the car? Mine operating arm do point to the slave cilinder
from vertical.

Is 6 &7/8 inch just 6 /78 inch? that makes here 174.46 mm I have set the pedal 165 mm as the book says.

What reason is not follow the book? Is this because of the efforts who is sometimes heavy? I had a 2200 and the clutch of that
car was not heavy at all. A higher pedal do also mean a higher foot, that can cause less comfort, but I do test it.

Rover 3500 S has stand still for 42 years in a barn gefore buying it so yes it sticks, special the first couple of pedal strokes where heavy, did make room
piece by piece and now it is working. The release bearing do glide over a tube, (I think) and maybe fat is hardening or some rust
making the bearing gliding difficult.

Thanks

regards
 
The drop arm needs to be pushed rearwards until the release bearing contacts the clutch pressure plate, at that point the drop arm should sit one spline forwards from the vertical.

It's not specifically to reduce pedal effort, although if all the adjustments are way out it should improve by setting everything correctly, it's more to ensure maximum clearance to remove any chance of clutch spin or drag.
 
Oke thanks, I get it.

mine drop arm is then right setup.

I go measure the rest and adjust conform your recommendations.

I like automatic more, but unfortunately that will not fit in a S, also
because of back problems..

regards
 
I have measure and look at it, the piston of slave is in rest 52.3 mm deep.

measured from the edge of the slave cylinder, I did read that I need to measure from the
inside of circlip, then I am close to that 25.4 mm is this right in your advises?

I have also a 7/8 slave cylinder, I think that is the bigger one, or not just guessing.

thanks.
 
V8 only has one slave cylinder diameter. If you have 52.3 mm distance between the circlip at rest you need to start operating the pedal full travel with the pedal stop wound right in, and adjusting the pushrod until with the pedal fully down the piston just touches the circlip.
 
I have now adjust the clutch, 1 inch piston to circlip at rest. the last part, see how far the piston comes to the circlip
I need to ask somebody.

It is possible when full pedal is done, the piston do touch the circlip, so then I need to screw out the pedal stop until I have
some space between circlip and piston.

The pedal stop was already wound fully in, and the clutch arm set as you did mention, the pedal do stop on the carpet.

I have use now a other pushrod end, and did lathe two distance washers, now it is nice and better, the old one was a strange
and quite weak pushrod end.

regards
 

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When you have the piston in the correct place so that when the pedal is fully down it just touches the circlip wind the stop bolt up one turn

All of this is in my original post.
 
harveyp6 said:
When you have the piston in the correct place so that when the pedal is fully down it just touches the circlip wind the stop bolt up one turn

All of this is in my original post.
Click to expand...

Yes thanks for your effort.

Tomorrow a friend do help setup last part.
 
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