HIF6 Float question

Hi, I dunno if this helps as u may already be doing it but I found I had to remove the jet ect before I could measure the gap.
coop
 
cooper1203 said:
Hi, I dunno if this helps as u may already be doing it but I found I had to remove the jet ect before I could measure the gap.
coop
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Always good to check Coop. I found that too otherwise you can't place the straight edge across the center of the body and the curve of the float.
 
I think I've fixed it! Found a guy with the exact same symptoms on a mini forum with a HIF44. He filed off some small burrs on the flats of the needle. So I treated the needles to some love with some 400 grit wet and dry. Softened the edges of the flats along with the lead in chamfers at the top of the shoulder of the needles. I also removed the seats, and using a Q-Tip in an electric drill polished the seat with some t cut. I reset the float levels so they are flush with the body face instead of the factory 1mm gap. I've refitted them, tuned and balanced them and left it idling for a good while to see if I get the leaks. The good news is, not a sausage! Not sure which of those three things fixed it but it seems to be all working now. Not to mention running pretty smoothly.

I've driven about 20 miles with it being 30°c and she's running fine. Although she does get lumpy if stuck in traffic with this temp. Pilkie suggested extra heat insulation on the heat shield and I think he's on to something there.
 
No problem Coop, I felt I might have over posted. As it happens I pulled the Rover out of the garage this morning and fuel gushed out of the front carb. I ended up taking up my friends 3500S instead. Then drove his 68 Plymouth Fury police car back. It was a hoot! The Rover was light years away from the Plymouth, no wonder the U.S. Motor press thought the Rover was the future.
 
Finally have it sorted I think (again). Used Rolls Royce spec needle valves that have the Viton tip and a spring loaded button at its base similar to the brass tipped valves. It also has a clip that secures itself to the float tab. I've set the float height now as per SU's specifications and she seems to be running much better now.

Here's the best valve needles.
 

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I should follow up (belatedly, very belatedly). So the burrs weren't the issue.
It turns out that New Jersey fuel contains about 10% ethanol. That drops the boiling point of fuel enough that on a 88°f+ day the float chambers would boil causing the floats to sink and flood the carbs. I used an adhesive heat shield material on both sides of the factory heat shield. Since I did that I've had two years of trouble free motoring.
 
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