Help with wire connection

#1
Hi people, I need some help with some wires.
Some months ago I took the engine off from my Rover 2000TC.
I made lots of pictures of connectors and wires as a reminder but my phone died and I lost most of the photos.
Now the engine is back in the car and I've got the big connector that plugs the alternator and other five with no idea where
they go.
I´m enclosing a picture to illustrate with numbers and color codes.
I will appreciate any help.
Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

#4
In the top pic, green (2) goes to the temp sender in the cylinder head, white/green (1) goes to the Otter switch nearby which controls the choke warning light.
 
#6
In the top pic, green (2) goes to the temp sender in the cylinder head, white/green (1) goes to the Otter switch nearby which controls the choke warning light.
Great John !! Those were the two "mystery wires".
Noww I need to guess if my car has ballast resistor in order to connect the starter.
My car is a 2000TC from 76, but for the export market ( Italy )
 

Tom W

Active Member
#8
Your car should have a ballast resistor as it’s 1976. It’s shown as a separate item on the wiring diagram, but in reality it’s a high resistance wire embedded in the loom that runs down from behind the dash to the coil. If the car has been converted to electronic ignition, it could have been bypassed, but that doesn’t need to affect the wiring to the starter.
 
#9
Your car should have a ballast resistor as it’s 1976. It’s shown as a separate item on the wiring diagram, but in reality it’s a high resistance wire embedded in the loom that runs down from behind the dash to the coil. If the car has been converted to electronic ignition, it could have been bypassed, but that doesn’t need to affect the wiring to the starter.
Thanks Tom, gathering all the different info, plus the the post from Demetris ( see pic 2 above ), is quite sure that wire 4 ( first pic on post ) goes to "C" terminal ( pic 2 ).:D sounds complicated but I know what I mean !
Great forum !!
 

Tom W

Active Member
#10
The C terminal connects 12v to the coil only when the car is cranking. If you still have the ballast resistor, the coil is only fed with 9v while the car is running. The ballast wire drops the 12v to 9. The 12v gives a temporary boost to the spark when it would be otherwise weak due to cranking lowering the voltage. The coil for a ballast system is designed to only run off 9v, so couldn’t tolerate 12v continuously without overheating, but will take the higher voltage for a short period, and produce a stronger spark.

What normally happens with electronic ignition conversions is the ballast wire is bypassed as the electronic module needs a 12v supply. The coil is swapped for a 12v coil at the same time. This doesn’t mean you can’t connect the original wire to the starter though. It just gives 2 routes for the coil to get 12v at starting, but makes no difference to how the car runs. It’s safer than leaving it loose as it will be live when the car is running.
 
#11
The C terminal connects 12v to the coil only when the car is cranking. If you still have the ballast resistor, the coil is only fed with 9v while the car is running. The ballast wire drops the 12v to 9. The 12v gives a temporary boost to the spark when it would be otherwise weak due to cranking lowering the voltage. The coil for a ballast system is designed to only run off 9v, so couldn’t tolerate 12v continuously without overheating, but will take the higher voltage for a short period, and produce a stronger spark.

What normally happens with electronic ignition conversions is the ballast wire is bypassed as the electronic module needs a 12v supply. The coil is swapped for a 12v coil at the same time. This doesn’t mean you can’t connect the original wire to the starter though. It just gives 2 routes for the coil to get 12v at starting, but makes no difference to how the car runs. It’s safer than leaving it loose as it will be live when the car is running.
Thanks !
 
#12
My car uses Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition but retains the ballast resistor wire and the original 9V coil. I ran a separate 12V feed from the ignition switch to power the Ignitor, a solution which has the benefit that it allows the original RVI rev-counter to continue to work normally. It all works perfectly. The same 12V feed will also power the electric fan when I fit it.
 
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