Help please on rear brakes....

#1
Hi is there anyone here who is really knowledgeble about setting up the rear brakes that I could phone and speak to them?

Put the P6 in for MOT yesterday and theres a strange issue with the nearside rear brake!

Its better if I can explain to an "expert" :D

Oh & preferably somebody in england because of call costs :lol:

Many Thanks.....John
 
#2
If no one else on here can help you could try Ely service http://www.elyservice.co.uk/. They specialise in P6 Rovers and I've found them to be very helpful in the past when I've been stuck on things, especially when I had just bought my 2000SC. Unfortunately I don't have the experience yet to be able to help, only advice I can offer is have you checked your flexible brake lines as they can collapse internally and cause strange issues to arise like the brake going on and not releasing properly, the other thing is the seals can leak and there will be no signs of leaking externally for quite some time as the brake cover fills up with fluid before it starts to drip out.
I hope someone more experienced can help you.
Good luck,
Jon.
 

Tom W

Active Member
#4
I'm no expert, but I've just rebuilt the rear brakes on mine as part of getting it through the MOT. I had no experience, but was able to sort most things myself at home with forum help and the Rover manual. In the end I sent the calipers off to Past Parts for reconditioning after finding the cylinders were corroded. Had everything been ok, I would have rebuilt the calipers myself. Reassembling them didn't seem too tricky, but it seemed worth getting them professionally redone whilst they were off being resleeved.

There's details in my recomissioning thread http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7453

What's the issue with your brakes? Does your car have Lockheed or Girling calipers?
 

chrisw

Well-Known Member
#5
Lister John said:
Hi is there anyone here who is really knowledgeble about setting up the rear brakes that I could phone and speak to them?

Put the P6 in for MOT yesterday and theres a strange issue with the nearside rear brake!

Its better if I can explain to an "expert" :D

Oh & preferably somebody in england because of call costs :lol:

Many Thanks.....John
Let me guess - they couldn't find a bleed nipple? Or is that the other side - can never remember :wink:
 
#6
The pipe from the offside to the near side does give problems, so could be that. Caused my brakes to bind on the offside a bit but after standing was ok. The inside start to flake and creates a kind of one way valve.
 
#7
Its got all new flexi brake hoses at front and rear, brakes are bled but theres no reading from the nearside rear brake.

The handbrake doesnt seem to sit right back on the caliper end of things?

Also Wadhams said there is 2 different types of rear calipers, (Incase I have to buy new ones)

Its quite annoying!!!! :roll:
 
#8
As my car is at the garage I can not get a picture of the calipers to check wether they are the earlier type or later type calipers.....Can anyone post a pic of both types?

Google cant find many pics of the rear bakes :lol:
 

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#9
check out vaultsman's thread (Rebekah i think!?) - as he has some bits that show a dunlop brake system. Other sort is girling i think which are from later cars.

Rich
 
#10
From memory yours is a 1970 P6B? In which case it has Girling rear brakes. I thought you did some rebuild work on the back brakes before the MoT? Can you refresh our memories what was done? Pads and hoses for sure, anything else?

Chris
 
#11
chrisyork said:
From memory yours is a 1970 P6B? In which case it has Girling rear brakes. I thought you did some rebuild work on the back brakes before the MoT? Can you refresh our memories what was done? Pads and hoses for sure, anything else?

Chris
Yes correct a P6B, The chap at Wadhams said there are two types of girling brakes!...Thats the confusing bit????

I did check them over when I had the diff removed, all I did was check everything was free, free off the small piston inside the nearside rear piston check for leaks and reassembled them.

New pads were also fitted although the old ones were like new it turned out, new rear flexi hoses and thats it for the rear.....

Thanks for now..John
 

arthuy

Well-Known Member
#12
What you may find is that the inner pad is not free to move.

The pad needs to slide along the retaining pin.

Some kits give you a thin shim exactly the same shape as the rectangluar pins. If you fitted them take them off and make sure the pads slide.

I did this years ago, because the pad is stiff the caliper thinks that is has reached maximum adjustment.

However 2 things to check. Does the foot brake operate the caliper? if so the pads probably are moving. Can you see the handbrake cable pulling on at the caliper? If so what may have happened is that the small cam has fallen out.

Colin
 

arthuy

Well-Known Member
#13
re different Girling brakes.

As far as I knew the only differences were with the front brakes.

Although I have seen a couple of minor differences between rear calipers over the years.

Colin
 

Tom W

Active Member
#14
My Girling calipers were slightly different to the pic in the manual. The two studs holding the mech together were machined on mine, with shoulders to support the beam. In the book, they are plain studs with sleeves to achieve the same effect.

There's pictures of my girling calipers in my thread. http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=7453

I agree with checking the pads are free too, mine weren't free to slide on the mounts when I got the car.
 
#15
hi john,
if you want to talk, ring me on 07761 329149 i will then give you my land line to ring me back to keep costs down. there are differences in the rear girling caliper, but only the handbrake mechanism, the caliper internals there is no difference what so ever.

joseph
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#16
There are actually two types of rear caliper internals, but it's been a long time since I've come across one with the early parts. You need to make sure that the different parts are used as sets, not mix and matched. Tom W has explained the exact differences. Most of the problems occur due to incorrect reassembly or setting up.
 
#17
A funny (depending how you look at it) thing happened to my rear brakes.

They worked perfectly fine for the MOT three weeks ago.

Now, they don't work at all. Nada. Nix. Zilch. Rien.
I noticed that the hand brake stopped working, so I wanted to adjust it. Turns out nothing works in the back, no matter how hard you stomp on that old pedal, you can turn the rear wheels by hand. Both of them.
The handbrake mechanism is not seized, it moves from one end to the other when you pull the lever, but nothing whatsoever moves in the rear calipers.

It is a total mystery to me.
 

chrisw

Well-Known Member
#18
The cable isn't shagged by any chance?

If someone inside pulls on the handbrake lever, can you see the cable moving at the caliper end?
 
#19
chrisw said:
The cable isn't shagged by any chance?

If someone inside pulls on the handbrake lever, can you see the cable moving at the caliper end?
Oh yes, the linkage moves the entire way, from one end to the other. But the pads don't move an atom.

Please note, that they also don't move when I apply the foot brake. The car brakes on the front brakes only atm. The pedal feels solid, i.e. not like there is air in the system, or something leaking, which it isn't.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#20
Was any work done to the rear brakes prior to the MOT? If so I would say that at the time the MOT was done, although the brakes worked well enough to pass the test, they were not correctly set so as to allow the mechanism to self adjust from that point onwards, and now that the pads have worn down a bit with use neither the hand or footbrakes are working because the pads are too far away from the discs.The hydraulic piston will be right up against the stop washer.
Otherwise it looks as though you'll have to try setting them up properly, and see what (if any) faults you find along the way.
 
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