Heater box teardown and rebuild

Oh that Alex! I accidentally bumped into her Youtube channel last week. I liked her "Roveralls", I wouldn't buy them second hand from her mind!!
Maybe you could message her there.

Surely you don’t call that tea try using a teapot ,loose tea rolling boiled water
 
On the Rover front I admire your enthusiasm. Can relate to space cramps .to stop sneezing wear a mask as there’s nasty bugs in car rust ,keep up the good work Yours Rob
 
I have now remove the heater, it is in a good condition, but needs overhaul because foam is bad and scrumble.

I did see that the box has screws but also pop rivets, I need to drill out otherwise I can not reach nothing. I think
this is not original, as (I have the latest production car from Belgium maybe screws are running out and did use this
pop rivets.
 

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I have now remove the heater, it is in a good condition, but needs overhaul because foam is bad and scrumble.

I did see that the box has screws but also pop rivets, I need to drill out otherwise I can not reach nothing. I think
this is not original, as (I have the latest production car from Belgium maybe screws are running out and did use this
pop rivets.
It is normal to have a combination of screws and pop rivets. They were assembled in the factory this way. The reasoning for the placement of the different fasteners is a mystery and discussed elsewhere on the forum.
 
Check that where the inputs from the interior move arms (pic2) the shafts are not slipping in the arms - this happened on mine and meant that the input flap did not open.
 
Check that where the inputs from the interior move arms (pic2) the shafts are not slipping in the arms - this happened on mine and meant that the input flap did not open.

I have check all of this, I do replace the rivets because these are oxidated. I have now tear apart the heater and can start remove rust from it.

I need to find the flap foam replacement, I check internet.
 
Check your local hardware shop for foam with adhesive backing - I found quite cheap roll, ~6mm thick. Worked on the flaps well. Take pics as you dismantle. There is some on my heater here P6B S Project Car, and many other threads. Take a pic (like pic2) with the heater positioned as it is in the car - its easy to get the levers and rods in the wrong orientation, makes life very difficult.
 
Check your local hardware shop for foam with adhesive backing - I found quite cheap roll, ~6mm thick. Worked on the flaps well. Take pics as you dismantle. There is some on my heater here P6B S Project Car, and many other threads. Take a pic (like pic2) with the heater positioned as it is in the car - its easy to get the levers and rods in the wrong orientation, makes life very difficult.

I have take pictures to prevent the wrong assemble. I am now busy with antirust protection.

Thanks for your advice.
 
The heater is ready to be rebuild again, the motor is serviced so things go well. For people who have less heat,
the matrix has a cellrubber surround, the air needs to go through it and not around it, that is cold air. It also prevent noise.
 

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There are several threads covering various parts of heater rebuild....Inner guards- the panel covering the front springs?
 
There are several threads covering various parts of heater rebuild....Inner guards- the panel covering the front springs?
Apologies it seems i may have responded to an incorrect part of the thread. but yes the panel covering the front springs. Aware of a thread covering their removal?
 
Anyone on here pulled out a heater box from a P6b fitted with A/C from the factory? I guess most of the a/c cars were NADA.
I have got factory a/c in mine and the heating has deteriorated over the 50yrs to the point of being abysmal.
I would love to attack mine but notice the a/c lines go into the heater box and I dont want to go into places that cant be fixed.
 
What does the manual say about the process of heater removal when AC is present? ie, how far in can you get before you have to disturb an AC line and go past the point of no return? In my heater one end of the core was bulging which is a bad sign - the fact that the in and out pipes are on the same end means its a 2 pass core, meaning one end cap has a baffle in it to force the coolant through the core, else it will bypass it.
 
What does the manual say about the process of heater removal when AC is present? ie, how far in can you get before you have to disturb an AC line and go past the point of no return? In my heater one end of the core was bulging which is a bad sign - the fact that the in and out pipes are on the same end means its a 2 pass core, meaning one end cap has a baffle in it to force the coolant through the core, else it will bypass it.
Absolutely never thought of looking at the WM -duhhr. Its that time of the year , my head is in a weird space. Us 'umans need each other so badly.
Thanks jp928
 
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