Heater box teardown and rebuild

Demetris

Well-Known Member
#21
I must admit that with the bonnet off you have more natural light available while you work, and there is no risk to bang your head on it!
As Dave says taking it off is not that bad, however, having to align it again at refitting is not exactly straightforward, even if you try and mark the position of the hinges. Get the alignment wrong, and you 'd better have the grille off too, because the lock wouldn't want to release easily.
 
#27
Hi All,

Hope it’s not too late to jump on this. I’ve stripped my heater box but need to know what’s best to replace the foam seals with. I’ve seen 3mm scrim foam online but also seen mention of neoprene. Also some of them seem to be maybe a 5mm thickness.

I would certainly appreciate contact details for Alexandra P as I’m not on Facebook and quick look doesn’t show any details for her.

For the record no bonnet removal required. Scuttle comes out fairly easy am I’m a blunt tool at that.

Cheers
 
#30
Hi everyone.
Reading several posts regarding the heater unit brings up several conflicting procedures, as well as the beloved Haynes manual
Everything on my heater works fine and dandy.... except it has a small leak which i know will only get worse. I have bought a new replacement item and looking at it there appears to be no fixing points or screw holes so my question is... do i have to remove the whole unit or will the matrix come out on its own?
Or will i have to remove the top engine cover like the Haynes manual sugests?
 

Ban306

Active Member
#31
If it was me I would just remove your old unit and inspect underneath it and the bulkhead, as it can hide a horrible mess underneath, I removed one on a 2000 without removing the bonnet and it was easy to remove there is a seal underneath the heaterbox that I would suggest replacing.
 
#32
Cool thanks. I know it makes sense to do it but weather not great in Scotland this time of year and i have limited (nil) garage space.
 

Ban306

Active Member
#33
Your welcome Just have a wee dram before you start just to keep cold out of course :)
I removed mine in winter so I feel your pain,
The heater boxes are really over looked, even when I look at a really nice looking P6 I always wonder whats under the heater box
its amazing just how a small amount of rain water can travel under the carpet and can rot the floors out or the bulkhead.
The other problem is once you remove the heater box you need to cover the the wholes I used adhesive heat shield
then made a rubber pipe up to bypass the heater box so I could still drive around.
Reference to removal I found just getting a socket set working on it was fine, windscreen wipers off and the front scuttle panel off.
Removing the bonnet well I would avoid this if you can I manged to remove mine on a 2000 without bonnet removal.
If you have nice paint work I would suggest protecting the scuttle or the bonnet as it can touch the paint as your removing it.
Only problem is once the scuttle is removed and the wipers are out your then will be thinking you need to re grease and service the wiper linkage the list goes on Good luck with it Dean and please ask away if you have a problem loads of owners are on this forum are always happy to help
 
#34
Thanks for tha advice, completed the task successfully although the heater was not very warm. Checked everything this weekend to find that i had damaged the main heater linkage and the air vent was not opening.
Manually opened the vent and will now leave till better weather. The upside is that i had to turn the heater down today as it was too warm.
 

Ban306

Active Member
#35
Thanks for tha advice, completed the task successfully although the heater was not very warm. Checked everything this weekend to find that i had damaged the main heater linkage and the air vent was not opening.
Manually opened the vent and will now leave till better weather. The upside is that i had to turn the heater down today as it was too warm.
Your Welcome Dean if you need a new linkage let me know I have loads here I can post to you at no cost.
 
#36
Alex charges about £350 for a completely refurhiahed heater box which has new matrix, new seals, new fan motor etc - or £300 if you send her your old box. Sending your old box only costs about £12 by courier. But fitting them is a pig of a job as wipers have to come off, scuttle and bonnet have to be removed, glove box doors removed etc. I paid someone to do that on mine.
So an expensive job - but at least I have some heat in the car now and can clear the front window!
But bear in mind, even when done, these heaters are not what you would describe as a furnace . . .
I have Alex’s contact details if you need them. She is a lovely lady to deal with.
Alex charges about £350 for a completely refurhiahed heater box which has new matrix, new seals, new fan motor etc - or £300 if you send her your old box. Sending your old box only costs about £12 by courier. But fitting them is a pig of a job as wipers have to come off, scuttle and bonnet have to be removed, glove box doors removed etc. I paid someone to do that on mine.
So an expensive job - but at least I have some heat in the car now and can clear the front window!
But bear in mind, even when done, these heaters are not what you would describe as a furnace . . .
I have Alex’s contact details if you need them. She is a lovely lady to deal with.
Hi, could you please let me have the contact details for Alex so I can discuss a complete heater box with her. Thanks. Terry Hill
 
#38
Hi, could you please let me have the contact details for Alex so I can discuss a complete heater box with her. Thanks. Terry Hill
Oh that Alex! I accidentally bumped into her Youtube channel last week. I liked her "Roveralls", I wouldn't buy them second hand from her mind!!
Maybe you could message her there.

 
#39
I took bonnet off just for ease of things. removed whole heater box .scuttle etc and took apart heater matrix one end by desoldering . a thing metal wire slightly flattened with a hammer was used to push through all heat exchange tubes to clear debris and muck .afterr a good clean out and about a cup full of crud and rust etc re-soldered and refitted. Hard part I found was getting the fiddly control rod arms reconnected .. heater works now but isn't exactly a hair dryer ...only downside was trying too remove choke cable but I worked around that. sadly it now stays on so I think Ive buggered something up under console part.did find a sort of horseshoe shaped metal bracket with a small crew and nut attached loose. suspect it fits to choke cable but not worked out how! might be why light stays on even when choke is off.
 

colnerov

Well-Known Member
#40
Hi, That horseshoe bracket holds the choke light switch onto the choke cable. The light is on because the switch is detached. You will find the switch, a black bakelite item, adrift behind the console speaker grille somewhere. The switch 'saddles' onto the choke cable with the switch button going into the hole in the choke cable. More fun ahead.;)

Colin
 
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