Headlight keeps 'blowing' - They don't last 5 minutes!

Phil Robson

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

My P6's offside outer headlight has been replaced 3 times in the last 3 weeks. Can anyone tell me why it keeps going?

I have just noticed also that the main beam has now failed on the same side.

I use the car a lot. It just had to be this time of year...

Any ideas or similar experiences?

Many thanks,

Phil (East Yorks RO) :(
 
Hi
Check the 'on charge' battery voltage, i.e. measure the battery voltage with the engine running at 2000rpm and it should be around 13.8 volts.
 
phil - if its more than 13.8V the alternator will be gubbed. Check the fuse holders for security while your at it - they have a habit of becoming a bit loose, causing high resistance joints, which heat up and melt the fuse box!
 
Might be worth checking it's tight in it's holder to stop vibration and the plug connector on the bulb is a tight fit
I've come across this in a friend's house ,checked all the terminals , found nothing wrong but the problem stopped
Strange
 
scauto said:
Check the fuse holders for security while your at it - they have a habit of becoming a bit loose, causing high resistance joints, which heat up and melt the fuse box!
Click to expand...
Yes! Both our Series 2's have melted bits which have cut off power to the n/s headlight on the 3500 & makes the wipers intermittent on the 2200. I've got a few replacment fuseboxes but they're going to be fiddly Blighters to change. :(
Click to expand...
 
Have you modified something which has made the fusebox melt or is this a weak spot ?
I think it would be easier to by pass the affected fuses and fit an in line fuse
Dave
 
Hi everyone,

I have just checked the fusebox & the upper holder for the dip/headlight right hand side has indeed melted! It doesn't look too serious in that everything still looks to be in place with no evidence of scorching, etc, but I presume it will need changing.

Is there anything else I can do to keep it OK it in the meantime?

Thanks for all your help,

Phil. (East Yorks RO)
 
Dave - its a weak spot - fuse becomes a little bit loose in holder over time which sets up a high resistance joint which gets hot when current passes through it ( a mini- heater for the golve box!) and the plastic melts. I agree that it would be easier to fit decent blade fuse holders and not replace the box with another used Rover one - but you can buy aftermarket fuse boxes with screw terminals for the wiring - that would probalby be the best way to replace the box rather than having to try and solder all the wires - certainly would not try crimps even with a pro crimping tool :)
 
Might be an idea to change any fuses where the ends are corroded. The same thing happens on mid 90's Ford Escorts so I think we can say the Rover fuse box is better quality
 
I have now checked all terminals & connections thoroughly, and have replaced duff lights. Lost the near-side dip yesterday & noticed some more melting of the fusebox around the off-side's terminal (both are connected) which I removed & cleaned all up. Result was that the light came back on so it hadn't blown.

I then tested the voltage at 3000rpm on that light & found it went up to 15v (tho' pretty steady). Is the alternator &/or regulator the problem?

Happy New Year,

Phil (East Yorks RO)
 
I have not specifically checked the battery, Tony, but have now had the alternator tested. It is giving up to 15.4V & therefore the regulator doesn't appear to be working properly.

As the regulator is built in, I'm having the alternator exchanged.

Thanks all for your help. I will report the outcome.....

Phil.
 
Slight change of plan. The alternator is an 11AC & it's regulator is seperate & fitted near the fusebox, on the sidewall in the passenger footwell.

I have obtained a new one from Wadhams (excellent service - as I've always experienced - no connection with them, by the way) & have fitted it tonight.

Result is spot on. Going a fair distance in it tomorrow, so it should be OK.

Thanks to all.

Phil.
 
Out of interest has anybody replaced the standard type alternator with a more modern internally regulated type ?

Richard
 
Yes
2200 use a internally regulated alternator. They are slightly different as the regulator has an extra terminal that is connected to the battery joint under the drivers foot. That is where it senses the battery voltage. I have had no problem however fitting a standard alternator and leaving the sensing wire disconnected. However the local autoelectrical supplier fitted me the extra terminal to a standard 17ACR.
 
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