Hazel

#61
I have now re-removed the gearbox sump & have taken time to carefully flatten the mating edge which was still somewhat uneven around the bolt holes.
I'm now awaiting a cork gasket that I will locate with a little Vaseline & nothing else. I'll report back in due course!
dont forget the honey and pollyfiller............ aka dont forget the fruit gums mum..........
 

unstable load

Well-Known Member
#62
I'm now awaiting a cork gasket that I will locate with a little Vaseline & nothing else. I'll report back in due course!
I suggest you use a lick of tacky sealant like Reinzosil and stick the gasket to the sump with that, and once dry, a lick on the mating face to the block and then fasten it down.
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#63
I have now refitted the sump again, with a cork gasket & a tiny smear of Vaseline to locate it. Everything seemed to go well & I've refilled the gearbox with ATF-G (2nd time).

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I'm not sure why it has 2 extension pieces on the o/s :confused: They're like the ones on the engine sump to attach the autobox coolant pipes.

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Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#65
The 2 extension pieces are to hold the fuel pipe if the box is fitted to a P5B.
I might swap those for normal bolts then :)

Hazel's rear brakes have been a little under par recently so I've changed the pads as this is the simplest fix, if it works. The calipers were rebuilt a year or so ago when the suspension & diff were refurbished, so hopefully they'll still be OK. However, I already noticed evidence of a tiny oil leak at the bottom of the diff & also a sign of a very small leak from the o/s diff drive shaft seal, but they're very minor & nothing is getting onto the brake disc.

The old pads have some meat left on but are a bit contaminated & shiny:

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This is the before & the after:

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I managed to wind the cups back in with the Rover tool. It would certainly have been easier to remove the discs but a bit of patience paid off. I removed the middle exhaust box to get to the n/s as the joints were blowing anyway, so it was a good opportunity to sort these at the same time. Space is still tight at the n/s as the handbrake mechanism is a little higher up.

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This is hopefully bringing the work on Hazel to a close for now. I'm getting new front tyres then submitting it for an independent check ('MOT') in the next few weeks.

There're still a few rust blemishes (& scabs...) on some panels & I really want to take the outer sills off to treat & 'shutz' the middle sills, which are in good condition but have surface rust which I don't want to get any worse.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#66
Pad sliders incorrectly fitted. Look how out of line the pad faces are. The inner pad is almost off the disc. Remove and clean the breather, it may cure the leak.
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#67
Pad sliders incorrectly fitted. Look how out of line the pad faces are. The inner pad is almost off the disc. Remove and clean the breather, it may cure the leak.
:rolleyes::rolleyes: That is a schoolboy error from someone who should know better!
As you can see, I copied what had been done last time without thinking.....
Hopefully the brakes will be that bit better now ;)
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#68
The brakes are fine now :)

The usual advice of 'try the easy things first' that I often dish out was not followed in that I thought a long-term slight brake / handbrake softness was going to be awkward to fix.... In the event, a fresh set of pads did it, after several months of putting it off. The car has been laid up a lot of the year though due to panel work, cooling & sumps gasket issues.

Anyway, the auto-box sump now has its new cork gasket in place & it doesn't leak AT ALL :cool: The bolts have been tightened with a ratchet spanner but only to just beyond the point where there's some resistance.

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Here's the proof!

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(I do have permission to use a baking tray as a drip tray :D)

Must be moody shot time, then:

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:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
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