Hazard warning lights

dmblbit

Active Member
Any ideas please?

  • Hazard warning lights not working.
  • Bought new relay from Wins. Still not working.
  • Indicators work fine (another new relay), but if I pull the hazard switch the indicators stop working
  • The blue/brown wire from the fuse box appears to be dead
  • Both sides of the number 2 fuse also seem to be dead
Have i got to take the fuse box off and if I do will I regret it?
 
Remind me, what does No2 fuse supply?

Often operating the Hazard switch a good few times will probably get it working. As they are not used much the switch internals tend to get a bit corroded.
 
Remind me, what does No2 fuse supply?

Often operating the Hazard switch a good few times will probably get it working. As they are not used much the switch internals tend to get a bit corroded.

this has been my experience too.
A wise man once said "Use it, or lose it"
 
I’ve tried pumping the switch to no avail. Fuse number 2 on my car feeds only the hazard warning lights and does not run through the ignition switch so i thought it should be permanently live
 
I’ve tried pumping the switch to no avail. Fuse number 2 on my car feeds only the hazard warning lights and does not run through the ignition switch so i thought it should be permanently live


Hazards should be live all the time, so if you have no power to either side of fuse 2 then you will have to trace back to see where that supply comes from, and what has happened to stop it.
 
Unfortunately, that's what I thought too. So I suppose I'll have to start by removing the fuse box - is it a risky undertaking?
 
Just checked the wiring diagram again and the supply to fuse 2 is linked to the supply to fuse 1 which serves the horn, clock etc, all of which are working fine, so I’m suspecting that whatever links the two has failed somehow. Going to be brave and try removing the fuse box tomorrow. To avoid unplanned excitemen, I think I’ll disconnect the battery first . . . . . . . .
 
Read the 'infamous P6 fuse box' thread thoroughly. There is a diagram somewhere that shows the interconnects between the fuse clips. One of the suppliers sells little wire clips that improve the connection between the two sides of the fuse end clips - these can be made from 1/32" piano wire. The only connection between the 2 sides of the clips is the fuse end cap itself. Its a good practice to remove each fuse, clean the end caps, and apply Deoxit or similar to improve connection. Also good to undo earth connections, clean thoroughly, Deoxit, refit.
 
Just checked the wiring diagram again and the supply to fuse 2 is linked to the supply to fuse 1 which serves the horn, clock etc, all of which are working fine, so I’m suspecting that whatever links the two has failed somehow. Going to be brave and try removing the fuse box tomorrow. To avoid unplanned excitemen, I think I’ll disconnect the battery first . . . . . . . .

Have a look here before you start removing it - Problem: High beam doesn't work on outer headlamps!

As JP says, the power comes in on one side of the fuse then has to pass through the top of the fuse, to the other fixing, then into the second fuse, so a dodgy clip or fuse cap can cause problems

Richard
 
So here's how it (eventually) went.
  • Disconnected battery and undid screws holding fuse box to bulkhead.
  • Checked link between 1 and 2 behind fusebox and couldn't see anything wrong, although not exactly sure what I was looking for.
  • Used a bit of wire to connect the top of 1 and 2 together and reconnected battery.
  • Hey presto, hazards are working.
  • Disconnected battery again and removed temporary connection.
  • Put fuses back in with fusebox still loose, reconnected battery just to see what happens, and mysteriously hazards still working without the temporary connection.
  • Put it all back together and hazards still working fine, although for the life of me I have no idea why.
  • All four indicators flashing and green arrows on dashboard too. Only thing not working is the flashing light in the switch. New bulb needed I presume.
  • Left with a mixture of delight at the outcome and frustration at the absence of credible explanation.IMG_0273 (1).jpeg
 
Explanation is that you disturbed the fuse cap-> clip connection and restored it to connection. The 2 fuse clips that the ends go into are ONLY connected by the fuse end cap. Suggest you remove each fuse one at a time, clean the caps with an abrasive nylon pad, apply Deoxit , replace. I made some small wire 'U' bits as below from 1/32 piano wire...point the ends inwards a touch to help them grip and stay in place.
yyxTBWp.jpg
 
Clips like that are for sale by one of our suppliers....at GBP3 each! If you have any signs of the fuse box melting you need to do some preventive maintenance - as well as fit relays on the headlight circuits.
 
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