Getting back on the road
- Thread starter sdibbers
- Start date
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
I don't know. How would he feel about only having four cylinders to play with? I will say, this is one of my new favourite events. we had 43 cars running. Fastest was a chap in a Lotus Seven 4:37 (My lardy arse managed 6:46) ! My favourites were the Old Grey Mare, an 90 year old race car with a Ford flathead V8 and the Hudson 1934 Indy Car.
Last edited:
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
That was taken by Sean Smith, a friend and talented auto journalist and photographer.
Client list - Sean S Smith photography
Photographer of classic, modern and exotic cars for editorial and advertising. shot in action and still situations. using existing backgrounds or creating whole new backgrounds in photoshop.
motorgrafix.com
Gargo
Active Member
Just watched the video. That's some hillclimb, looks steep with long straights; power and top speed a must. You did well, the screaming tyres (tires) in the corners kept reminding me it was a speed hillclimb.
One myth busted for me was the finish line checkered flag marshals in the US;
I had assumed all US motorsport used a trained qualified flag waver, jumping up and down holding two checkered flags rotating like a clock with a busted governor. But no..... It was a bored bloke in a deck chair, holding a static flag.
I too have a bag packed.....
One myth busted for me was the finish line checkered flag marshals in the US;
I had assumed all US motorsport used a trained qualified flag waver, jumping up and down holding two checkered flags rotating like a clock with a busted governor. But no..... It was a bored bloke in a deck chair, holding a static flag.
I too have a bag packed.....
Last edited:
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Yes! He never troubled himself with excitement over the whole weekend. The starter had a certain style though!
As for the hill, it was all steep! Squealing was trying to maintain momentum through the switchbacks, a lot of them it was better to take the outside line as the inside had a massive uphill camber. Gearing was a little high for it, the gap between 2nd and 3rd felt huge! I realised that Beryl was the heaviest car in the climb, so I think we did ok. I must’ve left 3-4 seconds on the table in this run. The slightly faster run later (6:46) didn’t make it onto video unfortunately. I took more care on the lines in the sweeps, braked a little later going into the hairpins.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
I’ve been meaning to fit an oil pressure gauge to Beryl for ages. But I’d wanted it to at least not look like an afterthought. So I decided to scan a spare Series I tacho and clock pod so I could match the curviture on the front plus the correct depth etc. after scanning the pod I modelled a new pod in CAD. This has a dovetail feature on one side so it can slide onto a track I’ll glue to the tach pod. That way I can remove it easily if I need to pull the dash.
I decided to try an experimental feature on the 3D printing software know. As ‘fuzzy skin’. It creates a dither in the path of the extruder creating a textured finish that hides layer lines. I printed the parts in ASA plastic, a material that’ll hold up to high temperatures and vibration well. Next will be finding time to wire up the lamp and fit the capillary tube.
Here’s some photos to show progress:
The CAD model with the 3D scan mesh.
It’s finished! Still on the printer bed with its support structure in place.
Showing the dovetail and internal shape
The gauge fits perfectly!
In place on the dash. Doesn’t look too out of place I think?
I decided to try an experimental feature on the 3D printing software know. As ‘fuzzy skin’. It creates a dither in the path of the extruder creating a textured finish that hides layer lines. I printed the parts in ASA plastic, a material that’ll hold up to high temperatures and vibration well. Next will be finding time to wire up the lamp and fit the capillary tube.
Here’s some photos to show progress:
The CAD model with the 3D scan mesh.
It’s finished! Still on the printer bed with its support structure in place.
Showing the dovetail and internal shape
The gauge fits perfectly!
In place on the dash. Doesn’t look too out of place I think?
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
I’ve been copying @cobraboy ‘s homework again. He’d noticed wondering under braking in his group 2 replica, it was quelled to a degree by making a brace for the top link. It seems that there is some flex sideways under load (if you compare its T shape with a conventional triangular control arm it makes sense).
If you remember, a while ago I 3D scanned the inner wing and front suspension. I used that to block out the suspension and body work a while ago. I was able to use that to design the brace, end eyes that locate over the ball joint and outer mount studs. I wanted to be able to adjust the length to aid forming. So welded a left hand thread nut on one end of the tube and a right hand thread nut on the other. This with matching threaded rod and two lock nuts.
Because I was able to measure angles and offsets I was able to machine the end eyes out of 1/8” (3.2mm) steel. The ones that are captured by the top ball joint studs I have offset slightly to avoid snagging on the top link.
After fitting I went for a quick test drive. Worryingly it felt better, worryingly because it meant it fixed flex! Steering wheel has no shake on rough roads, it doesn’t ’load up’ in cornering due to excessive camber change. So, worth the effort.
Couple of notes on the following photos:
(1) Yes, new ball joint gaiters ordered and on their way, ball joints appear in good condition.
(2) Ball joint nut will shortly be replaced with new nyloc nuts, due to the extra height meaning the split pin holes are no longer accessible.
CAD sketch model
Eyes in place ready to tack the brace in place
Brace tacked in place
Paint and finished install.
If you remember, a while ago I 3D scanned the inner wing and front suspension. I used that to block out the suspension and body work a while ago. I was able to use that to design the brace, end eyes that locate over the ball joint and outer mount studs. I wanted to be able to adjust the length to aid forming. So welded a left hand thread nut on one end of the tube and a right hand thread nut on the other. This with matching threaded rod and two lock nuts.
Because I was able to measure angles and offsets I was able to machine the end eyes out of 1/8” (3.2mm) steel. The ones that are captured by the top ball joint studs I have offset slightly to avoid snagging on the top link.
After fitting I went for a quick test drive. Worryingly it felt better, worryingly because it meant it fixed flex! Steering wheel has no shake on rough roads, it doesn’t ’load up’ in cornering due to excessive camber change. So, worth the effort.
Couple of notes on the following photos:
(1) Yes, new ball joint gaiters ordered and on their way, ball joints appear in good condition.
(2) Ball joint nut will shortly be replaced with new nyloc nuts, due to the extra height meaning the split pin holes are no longer accessible.
CAD sketch model
Eyes in place ready to tack the brace in place
Brace tacked in place
Paint and finished install.
Gargo
Active Member
That is worrying, it means we'll all have to do this too....
jp928
Well-Known Member
Either way would suit me - welded or components ! Sequence of welding - fit ends to suspension, adjust rod in place, tack weld, remove, final weld, refit? Looks like loads on rod are tension, I dont think it would do anything in compression?
Looks like you only have spacers on the RHS outer support?
Looks like you only have spacers on the RHS outer support?
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Hi, yep that’s pretty much it. My understanding of loads suggest the braces are indeed under tension.
I have shims on both sides, as I have a little more negative camber than standard to compliment the lowered suspension. This doesn’t affect length of the braces as the brace only ties together two points on the same component (the top link).
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately we do need the LH thread so you can lengthen the brace during fitting with both eyes over the studs. I’ll price up the kits and post on here.