Fuel gauge not moving

#21
Finally managed to find time to try Mike's fuel sender...after googling and youtubing...it is my old sender and I believe as you guys said it is the resistor. When I attached the replacement sender and move the float up and down, my fuel gauge reacts accordingly and quite smoothly too. So just trying to finish about 30ltr of fuel and will get that new sender in the tank. I'm tempted to try to do it myself but probably need to find the right tools to open it up in the first place. Wished the sender can be removed from the top of the tank somewhere...
 
#22
It isn't a hard task, just a bit messy and draining the tank is a bit of a pain as the reserve holds over one gallon, so you need something bigger than a mower fuel tin but short enough to fit under the car. You can use a long hose and put the tin outside the car but the top of the tin still has to be below the bottom of the tank; which isn't very high above the ground if the car is just on stands. Then again if youhave an electric pump fitted, put a hose on the outlet into a jerry can and pump the thing dry.
 

Quagmire

Active Member
#23
I fixed my dead sender - the float was holed and full of fuel, but even waggling it about out of the tank gave sketchy readings.

Its easy to open, just carefully bend the three (I think its three) metal tabs that hold the cover on. I then gave the inside and wiper a blast with contact cleaner and bent the wiper slightly so it applied a little more pressure and remained in contact at all times.

Just be careful with the windings on the track as they are extremely thin and delicate!

The plastic float was replaced with one from a series landrover.

Assembly is the reverse of removal, or whatever the Haynes books say... :D
 

vaultsman

Well-Known Member
#24
rafrover said:
Finally managed to find time to try Mike's fuel sender...after googling and youtubing...it is my old sender and I believe as you guys said it is the resistor. When I attached the replacement sender and move the float up and down, my fuel gauge reacts accordingly and quite smoothly too. So just trying to finish about 30ltr of fuel and will get that new sender in the tank. I'm tempted to try to do it myself but probably need to find the right tools to open it up in the first place. Wished the sender can be removed from the top of the tank somewhere...
Good news then!

Once you've got the fuel lines undone, the only tools you need are a hammer and a small punch.

The sender is retained by a locking ring with 3 lugs....like this: http://shop.roverp6cars.com/epages/es146747.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=24713850&ViewAction=ViewProduct

There's also a rubber seal under the sender, which you can also see on the link above.

Just tap the ring around anti-clockwise to release the lugs from the locking tabs on the tank., and you can then wiggle the sender out. Mark the flange/tank before removal so you know the sender's orientation in the tank.

Make sure when you fit the replacement you get the seal seated right....otherwise you'll be dripping fuel!

Good luck!
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#25
vaultsman said:
Make sure when you fit the replacement you get the seal seated right....otherwise you'll be dripping fuel!
By "get the seal seated right" I presume you mean between the sender unit and the tank, not between the sender unit and the locking ring, as I saw on a TR7 a while back. :lol: That one leaked..... :roll:
 

vaultsman

Well-Known Member
#26
harveyp6 said:
vaultsman said:
Make sure when you fit the replacement you get the seal seated right....otherwise you'll be dripping fuel!
By "get the seal seated right" I presume you mean between the sender unit and the tank, not between the sender unit and the locking ring, as I saw on a TR7 a while back. :lol: That one leaked..... :roll:
:D :D :D

Yep, as I said H.....or at least what I meant.

vaultsman said:
There's also a rubber seal under the sender, which you can also see on the link above.
I suppose, in relative terms, "under" could be construed as "closer to the ground". I really should be more careful with my words.... :wink:
 
#29
Just searched and found this thread. Very helpful, I attached a wire with a male spade connector to the female spade wire going to one side of the sender unit, earthed this and the fuel gauge reasonably quickly went all the way up to full. I reconnected it all as was while in readiness for getting the car on ramps to pull the sender and it now works! Assuming it must have been a bad connection at the sender?
 
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