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Front Link Bushes, Rubber or Polyeurothane?

Discussion in 'Suspension / Steering' started by PNP, Feb 12, 2018.

  1. PNP

    PNP Member

    I'm about to do the ball joints on my SC Auto and was wondering whether to replace the lower link bushes with rubber or poly while I have the struts out. The car is not a performance machine so I'd prefer a quiter ride over a stiffer one. Do the poly bushes typically have a tendancy to squeek? Also, what other rubber parts should I consider doing while I'm at it? I was not thinking of doing the top link bushes until I strip the car to paint it next yr.
     
  2. Vern Klukas

    Vern Klukas Member

    Use rubber. To my mind, the poly bushes are always too stiff. However, personally I'd wait until next year and do the entire front suspension rubber at that time.

    Yours
    Vern
     
    Chalky likes this.
  3. PNP

    PNP Member

    I've only got one top ball joint that needs doing urgently, the rest ar OK. I guess I could do that one afternoon and plan the whole job for later on. Given its only a top ball joint, I assume I could leave the brake caliper and disc on the stub axle? would make the job fairly simple.
     
  4. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    All the hub and caliper can be left in place. Just (Just:rolleyes:) split the taper, remeve the three 1/4"unf bolts, and knock the joint out of the pillar. When putting the new joint in make sure those 3 bolts are lined up, you can use longer bolts as a guide for this, then remove and refit the originals. Rover book times are very generous and you got 54 minutes to change one of those IIRC.
     
  5. 1396midget

    1396midget Well-Known Member

    "Just split the taper, remove the three 1/4" unf bolts, and knock the joint out of the pillar."

    Yeah, this took me a DAY! haha!:D:D:D:Do_O
     
  6. Vern Klukas

    Vern Klukas Member

    I was chuckling a bit too at Harvey's tongue in cheek. I've done a top ball joint this way just two or three times, and after the first time before splitting the taper I took out the 1/4 bolts and beat on the joint to get it started out of the pillar socket enough that I could easily get a punch underneath even with the pillar was flopping around on the lower joint. That helped.

    I much prefer taking the pillar right out and doing it on the bench.

    Yours
    Vern
     
  7. unstable load

    unstable load Well-Known Member

    The post of the day!!:D
     
  8. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    I've done a few with varying levels of ease, or pain haha.
    I can think of much more troublesome jobs on cars though, rear trailing arm bushes on my V70 spring to mind..my weapons of choice without the special tool for that were drill and ratchet strap :D
    Jim
     
  9. So Cal V8

    So Cal V8 Active Member

    It's an easy job as long as you do all the right preparation. As it's a bit of a convoluted process I will use the following photo to illustrate what I mean...
    IMG_20170114_152603.jpg
     
    drabbers, corazon and mrtask like this.
  10. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    And you've not even split the taper yet.....:D
     
    corazon likes this.
  11. So Cal V8

    So Cal V8 Active Member

    Prep Harvey, prep...
     
    corazon likes this.
  12. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    You obviously adhere to that old saying "Got to let the dog see the rabbit....."
     
    So Cal V8 likes this.
  13. So Cal V8

    So Cal V8 Active Member

    I am all about ease of the task at hand H. And as the HBOL tells us, assembly is the reverse of disassembly
     
  14. corazon

    corazon Well-Known Member

    To be fair, it's probably worth it for the 360 access
     
  15. ghce

    ghce Well-Known Member

    I am guessing that removal of the roof is an essential pre-requisite of the operation.....
     
  16. So Cal V8

    So Cal V8 Active Member

    Graeme, you have clearly marked yourself out as an amateur - how else would you do this job... pfffft
     
    ghce likes this.

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