front bottom link removal

billoddie

Active Member
Hi gents.
Having a little bit of trouble in removing the threaded balljoint end on the bottom link.
The bush on the other end is the one that needs replacing, and I have removed that end.
I have also removed the split pin and nut from the ball end.
I would have thought at this point, it would be a simple matter of using a soft faced hammer to bang the threaded shaft loose.
It wont budge.
Am I missing something?
Or maybe need to take to it with a block of wood and heavy hammer?
The photo shows the end that i have removed...other end is stuck
Thanks heaps
Brenten
 

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Hi Brenten

There's nothing else needs to come off. When these have been in a long time they do take a bit of "persuasion" to come out. Careful placement of a fork type balljoint splitter should do it though that tends to end up with a split rubber, but the rubbers are replaceable. Try hitting the end of the link (the bit the balljoint threaded stem goes through) with something a bit harder than a soft faced hammer. Might just be enough to break the seal it's made after years of being in there.

Dave
 
Hello Brenten,

You won't unfortunately break the taper by hitting the actual threaded shaft, rather damaging the threads is a more likely outcome. I use the actual tool as shown in the workshop manual and that works a treat, but without that tool the only option I can think of is to follow Dave's suggestion and hit the side of the stabiliser arm where the link attaches. You will need to hit it pretty hard, and that is what concerns me. Back in 1987 or so I removed an upper ball joint for the first time and broke the taper by belting the side of the top link. It took from memory quite some time...not something I care to repeat. Ever since I have used the correct tool for that one too, such a difference!!

Ron.
 
Ok. Thanks heaps guys.
I will head down and buy an appropriate separator ASAP.
Very much appreciated advice, as I would have been banging away forever for no result except damage
 
Probably not the best way,but in the past I have used 2 hard heavy lump hammers hitting either side of the taper housing at the same time to break the seal,also a bit of applied heat can help,especially as the ball jiont rubber can be replaced.
 
Worth just adding in explanation, that it is not the nut and split pin that hold the joint together. The two tapered surfaces lock together on their own. The nut is really only there to to stop complete disintegration after the taper joint has already failed.

Chris
 
Ok.
So I went and purchased a scissor type of ball joint seperator from Repco.
After sacrificing the boot, I managed to get a good fit under the link and ball.
Tightening in the bolt...no release...tighter...nothing...more... thread in the tool strips! :x
OK, back to the drawing board. :cry:
Will have a go with hitting with a lump hammer. There is a demo on such on Youtub, and it seems to work a treat!
The other bummer for the day was another stripped thread...this time in one of the thermostat housing holes. Yikes! :x
Do I repair with something like Permatex/Loctite thread repair?
Or drill/tap and fit an insert? :?
I know the latter is preferable, but, for a thermostat housing app, is the permatex a feasible option?
 
The other bummer for the day was another stripped thread...this time in one of the thermostat housing holes. Yikes! :x
Do I repair with something like Permatex/Loctite thread repair?
Or drill/tap and fit an insert?

Helicoil insert would be best practice.
 
With ball joints , you tighten the extractor up as much as you think it can take and then give the ball joint a smack with a hammer
Most times it will fly apart
 
Riiighhht! I totally didnt do that.
Learning lots here...lets hope the car can make it through the process in more or less one piece!!
 
billoddie said:
Riiighhht! I totally didnt do that.
Learning lots here...lets hope the car can make it through the process in more or less one piece!!

You can tighten up the separator and then warm the area surrounding the joint up with a hot air gun (Not a blow torch).

This can help, don't overheat things though.

Richard
 
OK.
These things still giving me grief.
Been sporadically at them for a few weeks now.
On the advice of an auto parts shop, I abandoned the screw in type separator, and bought the "tuning fork" type.
Banged it in good and hard... smacked the lower arm (tried many places)...wont budge...at all.
Every few days i have a go at them, but just the same old result.
Ideas?
Any!!
 
Have you been giving the joint a good spray of penetrating fluid between attempts?

quattro said:
warm the area surrounding the joint up with a hot air gun (Not a blow torch).

This can help, don't overheat things though.

Richard

I know Richard has previously advised against too much heat, and for good reason, but the next step would be applying a bit of localised heat via a blowtorch or gas welding torch if you have one. Apply heat to the end of the stabiliser arm where the joint fits in, insert fork and give it a good whack with a hammer. The worst that can happen is that something breaks, but it's no good with the old knackered one fitted either and parts are easily sourced and replaceable so I'd go for it.

However, it shouldn't need heat if you give it lots of penetrating fluid over a period of time so I'd try that first.

Do you have anyone else close to you who could maybe pop over and have a look just to make sure you haven't missed anything?


Dave
 
With the car jacked up, and the weight supported safely, use a jack under the arm you're trying to remove, next to the joint, lifting it until it's supporting the weight of the car. (But only just.) Then with the nut screwed on a few turns to protect the threads, hold a large hammer behind the arm, while simultaneously hitting the other side, and the taper will split.
 
Thanks Harvey.
I'll give that a go...will get it eventually. I'm too tight to pay anyone to come out and do it :)
 
GOT IT!!!!
Thought about heat, but have no heatgun/blowtorch.
So I tried Harveys way.
I initially placed the trolley jack under the end of the link bar...but that only encouraged the car to slide on it and almost down on to me!
Rethink!
Placed the trolley jack under this point (please tell this position isn't likely to damage something else somewhere else)
Banged in the separator...out she came. Didn't need to do anymore.
However, due to the extent of prior banging/butchering, it seems to me that the rubber boots i purchased to replace the damaged ones, are basically wholly insufficient.
Looking at the link, I had to remove a whole lot more than just a rubber boot.
There seemed to be a hard metal ring/washer type thing and an old metal retaining spring. Surely just replacing the boot without these other ancillaries isn't enough?
Furthermore, there seems to be a degree of damage to the smooth round part of the joint...like some metal lacerations from being gouged with the separator.
I figure I have two options.
1) Take it in to a suspension place with what I have and get them to replace any other miscellaneous bits, as well as their advice as to the serviceability of the part.
2) Get new bottom link balljoints
Thanks for everyones feedback...my goodness it was good to see that taper pop up!
(Photos are blurry sorry...need better camera)
 

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I would clean the crap out of it, pack it with fresh grease, put the new rubber boot on and see if there is any play.

If there is no play, clean up the damage (ask your suspension experts advice as well) and put it back together.

If there is any play, get a new one and good luck with that, they are few are far between. Take note, they are handed.

Best of luck

Richard
 
quattro said:
Take note, they are handed.
They are "handed"? :shock:
Which is?
I have checked them out and there is not a trace of play...tight...in a good way.
But i only have the boot.
No metal ring (?), no round spring thing, (which was rendered non functioning by way of taking it off)?
Can I get these bits?
I think the gouging damage will clean up ok with a bit of filing.
Thanks Richard. :)
 
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