Fred Flintstone re-vitalized

This will hopefully be the saga of what happened next to the Fred Flintstone modification: The Fred Flintstone Modification

For a start:
  • Fred's car lived in the early nineties
  • Then it was made roadworthy without external bodywork upgrades.
  • After some encounters with local police it was put on temporary storage.
  • It resided so for 22 years.
  • During that sleeping period things happened around him:
    • His landlord moved several times
    • A new set of external bodywork was found
    • Some nice guy fixed the doors
    • His landlord had the bodywork cleaned, sand blasted, metallized and finished the original Glasurit series 22 Arden Green.
    • His landlord had a workshop built for him, and he moved there from the barn.
    • His landlord retired.
    • His landlord helped his family with several building projects, and after some 10 roof projects, a couple of house restorations, lots of windows and a couple of bathrooms, some odd in-between car encounters etc. etc. etc. etc. etc., and what do you have:
  • THE FAMILY DECIDED IT HAD TO BE FUN TIME.
The workshop was cleaned out so he could be found.

On 18. September 2016 an engine startup was successfully attempted:

Now what's next??? Only time can tell.
 
Has it got oil pressure? Or is something else causing that god awful knocking.

Great story and a car in good hands.

PS a warm welcome to you and your landlord.


Graeme
 
Has it got oil pressure? Or is something else causing that god awful knocking.

Great story and a car in good hands.

PS a warm welcome to you and your landlord.


Graeme
I'm wondering if it was a blowing exhaust manifold? Also timing was a good way off judging by the spitting carbs? Great to hear of another one coming back to the roads.
 
I fired up a v8 after many years of storage with same noise and backfiring and flames out of carbs.
Found valves sticking causing piston contact,might be worth removing rocker covers for investigation .
Good luck.
Clive
 
Yep, next is fresh fuel, compression test, oil pressure test, ignition adjustment. Need a trip to the car club to borrow tools home.
 
Procrastinate

Thinking about what to do with the engine - maybe better buy a replacement unit? I almost bought a SD1-sourced last week. Only failed because it had just been sold.
  • So renovated the aluminium "Lokari" wheel well liners + Dinitrol.
  • Measured stainless steel screws and bought 5-10 different sizes.
  • Found some square clips to fit the direction indicators and the door upper cappings in China - at a fraction of the UK cost: 5£ for 50 shipped to DK.
  • Got a piece of 8mm copper tube to have brazed at the fuel tube end: While emptying the tank I broke the steel one and found two with the same fault in my storage. Also bought brazing materials.
  • Dinitrol inside wings and doors.
  • Found an old Blaupunkt Bamberg CR Stereo from '73 to fit. Had previously modified a console with a speaker in each footwell. Tested the setup today:
  • Waiting, oh eagerly waiting for shipments from UK, China, Vietnam and Australia.

Guess my excuses have run out - I cannot postpone it any more - I'll have to approach that engine again. Come to think that wasn't something wrong with one cylinder already when it was put on storage. And then in two weeks I leave for Turkey only to return in January '17, so...... Only it is good to know the state of the beast. Something usable might pop up while being away.

Ohh, and while in Turkey I shall be looking for some not-quite-as-old car to buy and use there. Maybe some M....... B... Already have a W123 in mind.

Deadline for the P6 is Whitsunday '17. There is a major classic event just around the corner, and I have promised to be there with the '66 classic caravan behind. A classic license plate in black enamel with a suitable number has already been reserved thru Motor Historic Association. Unfortunately the original BJ 41996 is not available for classics, she will now be BJ 39996
 
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Still Rovering, although today's guest was a Ford enthusiast:
upload_2016-10-15_19-17-4.png

Happiness, however, is to sort 20 rear light lenses, find and clean the 6 best ones, and unpack three deliveries from the UK: gaskkets, screws and o-rings. All together it sums up to nice rear lights:
upload_2016-10-15_19-21-41.png
 
A renovated and upgraded oil pump made real wonders. This is how it sounded today:

Btw: Notice the new rear bumper and upriders. Stainless Steel made in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. Part of this set: P6 Bumpers Superior quality according to my stainless steel specialist.
 
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Long time no see. Status: My car has been a runner since last august, passed MoT first time, new historical license plates in september. Was a runner until last week when I - ooops -poured Dexron ATF in (see other thread). Interiors restored, door cappings last weekend. Some photos below. Next entry about very easily fixing sticking brakes.
 

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How to fix sticking brakes

First time the engine was started and the brake pedal used, the whole lot got stuck stone hard. Problem is described in a couple of other forum entries. The normal reason is that the servo has a transfer piston/valve that gets stuck.

My local advisor told me to dismantle everything. Then it is hell on earth to get the piston out.

Following decribes my VERY simple alternative that can be done at the roadside without bleeding or anything difficult at all:

Stop the engine, screw off the plastic capping and you will see it: The tiny thing in the middle with a little hole in it - photo 1. Find a small screwdriver and gently hammer it in - photo 2. Get some WD40 or similar down on top. Put the bottom plastic cap on again. Start engine and apply brake. It will normally be stuck again. If it is not you probably forgot to put the plastic cap on, the piston will have come flying out and you got yourself in trouble.

Instead repeat the open - push in - close - brake sequence 2 or 3 times until the piston moves easily. Put everything back together and drive off.
 

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