Fitting upper timing chain tensioner

taffyjenks

Member
Hi. Having checked to see why my timing chain was slapping against the head I discovered that somehow the pad has become detached from the end of the tensioner and God knows where it has gone.So tomorrows job is to fit a new tensioner.Can anyone give me any tips on the best way to fit it as I am not sure how to release it when it is fitted so it tensions the chain properly.The tensioner I have purchased is a Rolon with the bolt on the rear.
Thanks
Tony Jenkins.
 
I have just been working on my car, adjusting the tappets. I was glad to find that I had a tensioner fitted with the plug in the back.

These tensioners work by turning them clockwise with a 3mm allen key. Turn them clockwise to remove the tension, and release the tension. If you want to see how they work, take them apart and you can see how this works. The most important part is never turn them anti clockwise, otherwise bits of tensioner go flying into the sump.

Start with the tension released. Install it by doing up the 2 bolts. Then turn the screw clockwise. What I normally do is turn it clockwise a few times, to the the feel of where tension, and where tension release is. Watch the tension down the oil filler hole is, or perhaps take off the cam cover, and you can make sure it is working right. Also you can feel the tension on the chain.

Do not forget to put the plug back in afterward. To do this use a large dollop of grease in the socket. Enough so that the grease hydraulically locks the plug from being pushed back into the socket. Then carefully screw it in. There should be a tube in the hole, which will prevent the plug from falling into the sump if you do not use enough grease. You will then need a magnet to retrieve it, and you can then try again.

James.
 
Before starting, I stuff bubble wrap into the gap around the chain so that anything I drop has less of a chance of getting far. When refitting the tensioner, I fit a small cable tie around it to prevent it coming apart, then remove it afterwards. Belt and braces, but better than having to remove the sump - learnt the hard way!
 
Cheers for that.Removed he old tensioner this morning and when I examined it the rubber pad off the end ,the spring and some of the inside parts seem to be missing.Dont know where they have gone so may have to remove the sump anyway.Boo hiss!!
Regards
Tony
 
Sounds a sensible precaution. On the plus side, it can be done fairly easily without having to remove the engine or anything drastic.
 
taffyjenks said:
Cheers for that.Removed he old tensioner this morning and when I examined it the rubber pad off the end ,the spring and some of the inside parts seem to be missing.Dont know where they have gone so may have to remove the sump anyway.Boo hiss!!
Regards
Tony

The parts can just sit in the sump if you don't want the bother, though if it were me I'd fret about it. The danger is when they first fall out, if they make it past the timing chains on the way down you have nothing more to worry about. I once found two sets of tensioner in the sump of a engine that was running fine before we took it out. That mechanic must of been having a bad day.

Yours
Vern
 
Thanks for the replies people.First effort at doing anything like this but fed up trusting garages to do work for you.When I got to he old trensioner this morning I noticed that the mechanic had not put the plug back on the rear of the tensioner.Remember reading somewhere that this must be replaced.However I feel I may have been a little over confident.I turned the engine by hand to see if I could recover the spring from inside.It was lying on the chain.No joy but sounded as if chain slipped.I hope I havent done any damage as I am now apprehensive about starting it up in case I bend the valves.Deep Joy.

Thanks again
Tony Jenkins.
 
taffyjenks said:
When I got to he old trensioner this morning I noticed that the mechanic had not put the plug back on the rear of the tensioner.Remember reading somewhere that this must be replaced.

The tensioner is operated by oil pressure, so without the plug you get no pressure, so the tensioner doesn't work.
 
taffyjenks said:
I hope I havent done any damage as I am now apprehensive about starting it up in case I bend the valves.Deep Joy.

Thanks again
Tony Jenkins.

Whenever I work on timing gear I always turn the motor a full 2 revolutions, by hand (with spark plugs out). If you feel something striking or binding you know that you need to check the timing as something must be out. That way you do not have to end up with bent valves.

James.
 
Thanks everyone.Spent a little time this morning changing the tensioner.Followed the advice and although the job was very fiddly with my sausage fingers,I put it all back together and she sounds ok.Hopefully no lasting damage from the idiot that fitted the tensioner last time.
Regards
Tony

P.S.I had a lady from Chicago knock at my door wanting to have a look at the car and take some pictures.Over here on Holiday and still took the time to show interest in one of our cars .She went away delighted.I did tell her though that she should try and have a look and listen to a V8 due to their love of big powerful cars.
 
I am afraid that I spoke too soon.Having started and run the car on a number of occasions with her sounding sweet,I felt confident enough to take her for a spin.After about three troublefree miles made very short rattling sound, the oil light came on and that was it.Good night Vienna.Tried turning the engine by hand wouldnt budge.I fear that is the end for the old girl.Towed home by AA Van.Now contemplating whether to try and get another engine or send her to the P6 club in the sky.
Sad Times
Tony.
 
That don't sound good..............But........I'd have to dismantle it far enough to see what's happened and whether it can be fixed, (within reason) as that will only cost your time, not money.
 
Thanks Harvey.It is something I will have to consider but I was thinking the same way as you.Will check as far as I can.It is not mobile now so I cannot possibly make it worse.
Regards
Tony.
 
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