Finally a tidy 3500S!

cobraboy said:
The clutch arm pivot balls come in three lengths, it is essential to use the right one, an SD1 V8 ball is circa 45mm overall not inc thread.
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I’m being offered one that is 43mm. Is there any chance you could verify that is must be exactly 45? I guess I could space it out if need be.
 
Hi
No does not need to be exactly 45mm, I said circa 45 as I did not have one to hand. I just now unscrewed one from a box and have taken a pic for you. The end of this one is flatted a bit, so has maybe lost @ 0.5mm.
The over all length inc thread is circa 60mm.
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Fantastic, thanks for going out of your way!

I’m getting this one, and everything else I need, from one U.K. source. He deals in RV8 engines and gearboxes, breaks SD1 cars and Land-Rovers. Details on request!
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Good stuff , Tor! may I ask who is the UK supplier as I need the mechanical speedo drive for LT77 and a SD1 gear knob.
Thanks Damian.
 
DamianZ28 said:
may I ask who is the UK supplier
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PM’ed you!

Received a box of goodies from the U.K. today. I’ll tart up the cover and send off my spare speedo for calibration and a cable, and that should pretty much be the last of the bits organised. Oh, I also need an SD1 slave.

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The lever pivot that came with my 'spare' box is 37mm/1.5", so will have to toss that one. Also has an ordinary lever, without reinforcement.
 
So I've hit a snag with my clutch kit, which was supplied to me with as fitting an SD1 application/P6 flywheel. But it has a 10.5" friction plate, and the pressure plate fouls inside the bell housing. Eventually it has dawned on me that I need a 9.5" kit. I want it to take a future bhp increase <250 bhp, so it's back to google.
 
10.5" clutch is for Land/Range Rover V8.

Just for my information and education would you be able to post a couple of pics of the 10.5" pressure and centre plates?
 
harveyp6 said:
Just for my information and education would you be able to post a couple of pics of the 10.5" pressure and centre plates?
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Will do. I've also asked Clutchfix, who are willing to ship out a replacement 9.5" set(!) for nowt, for all the measurements so I can verify fitment before risking another dud. He doesn't even ask for a return of the kit I have. Quite impressed with that.

Edit: Does anyone have a photo of a 3500S flywheel less clutch to share, and also an SD1 one? I've mislaid my WM.
 
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Today I fitted my replacement steering damper, brimming with Castrol 80w 90 and a splash of Lucas Stop Leak just for good measure. The pin assembly seemed damaged on my ‘new’ unit so I reused the old one (left in shot). I’m satisfied with the damping action - firm, smooth and no notchy action or free play. The arm was incorrectly fitted, probably out by one spline, and I’m fairly confident I’ll reach full lock both ways now. One side rod boot was holed, fortunately I had a good used one to hand.
01208EEE-437E-4C73-BABD-0F27F8A10546.jpegB14457DE-B74A-43DF-91C0-32376C135F51.jpegD710FC42-914C-4379-94C6-6DA7C3799BA6.jpegI had taken out the heater for access, and was planning to swap the fan over from one I have sitting, but my box has rotted out underneath and has traces of leakage from the core so… I’ll fit the spare one so that it works for now. (Why did I never order that bloody foam…)
 
Been giving the heater box some rudimentary attention today (top looks great, the rest not so much), and managed to pry off and reuse some foam from the top flap on the bottom (floor channel) one. The others are mostly intact but ready to turn to dust. Pressure tested the replacement core to 1 bar, and that went well. But when I rotated it later on while moving it, water came out of the inner tank. Not taking it as a good sign. And the guy only tested it for like, a minute.
Also discovered that the heater to body seal is soaked with PAS fluid and has swelled. Might be one of the sources of my particular car stink, along with escaping coolant. And more, I’m sure. Not sure what to do about it, as I’ve no replacement to hand and not much to fashion something out of.
Mmh…
Let me look at the spare upper seal again…5D805742-C0A3-445C-9BF8-E273365D68CD.jpegCA23669D-552C-4372-B9AF-C778D778F17D.jpeg
 
RE THE OIL pump test hole - post #214, pic 3, centre hole of 3 is location of grub screw plug to remove and test pump.
Also on the throwout pivot , mine is 50mm(67mm overall) so I need to go out and find FRC7891, which should be correct, at 60mm overall. Wrong - should be UKC13 apparently , to get the 43mm length. One Ordered.
 
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After I was sent the wrong clutch, the vendor supplied the following details about the one he reckons I should have instead. I've no flywheel to hand so can only count input shaft splines. Does this sound about right?
"Drive plate spring battery diameter 155mm (minimum recess in the flywheel) Friction lining is 162mm bore size
Number of splines 23
bolt pcd 270.00 mm (+/- -0.20)
3 x dowel positions on same pcd
max outside diameter for the cover 290.00mm"
 
Hi all,

So I managed a couple of hours with the Rover today, first time since July. Found out the steering gear is at fault. With track and side rods off I could still only get 1.5 turns left, 1.75 right. Bless it all. Since it’s also quite leaky I’ll see if I can find one of the NOS ones I used to spot from time to time some years ago.

Also managed to locate the heater box before the sun went. I was sent a square of 15 mm closed-cell adhesive foam recently, and cut a good lower seal out of that.
 
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