Finally a tidy 3500S!
- Thread starter Tor
- Start date
Tor
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all your kind comments guys, much appreciated! Feels great to have turned another corner (lordly, at speed and sticking my bum out) 8)
Didn't you read my "Drivetrain Vibration" thread?? No seriously, I'd love to come over for a meet ... and some expert mechanical attention/tune-up/servicing and so on. If not this year then maybe 2013...chrisyork said:
I hear you! They do highlight the benefits of choosing a quiet tyre though.corazon said:The feel of the car with that wheel/tyre combo is fantastic, the more you drive it the more you'll like it
They are and I am, for the most part. My suspension is funny and it's kept lying to me that the shockers are dodgy when they never were. I proved it by swapping L for R on the rear and setting them up the same. I'll get there though.Barten said:
Tor
Well-Known Member
New theory: As mentioned early on the car has a rolling/bucking action over bumps, especially in right-handers. It also tends to bump deeper and sit lower at the RHS rear (even now, with new springs, shockers reset). Finally, over little bumps, kerbs, cobblestones etc. the hint of tail wagging that should be there feels biased to the right (unless the mirror-view confuses me).
When fitting the diff after the rear was out for overhaul I had to tug the diff hanger to the left in order to slip the LHS hanger bolt in. This was with the panhard rod fitted as I figured I'd avoid access issues with it afterwards. I had a longish chat with our SA Rover guru about it and he figured there might be a connection between the two. I put the idea in the below quote to him and he is pretty sure only the former of the two applies. By pulling the diff to the right, the panhard rod adds resistance to the RHS suspension, and the de Dion extension motion is aided on the left but not the right as the suspension compresses. And no, I didn't do anything about this last time I was under there. Sigh.
I've already jacked the D post so wheel clearance should hopefully still be OK. I'll try to undo the hanger bolts and see if the whole rear can find its ideal position too...
When fitting the diff after the rear was out for overhaul I had to tug the diff hanger to the left in order to slip the LHS hanger bolt in. This was with the panhard rod fitted as I figured I'd avoid access issues with it afterwards. I had a longish chat with our SA Rover guru about it and he figured there might be a connection between the two. I put the idea in the below quote to him and he is pretty sure only the former of the two applies. By pulling the diff to the right, the panhard rod adds resistance to the RHS suspension, and the de Dion extension motion is aided on the left but not the right as the suspension compresses. And no, I didn't do anything about this last time I was under there. Sigh.
chrisyork said:
I've already jacked the D post so wheel clearance should hopefully still be OK. I'll try to undo the hanger bolts and see if the whole rear can find its ideal position too...
Hi Tor
I think we can now safely discount damper and suspension bushing issues as the cause of your odd handling. But I think you are way off beam with your analysis of the significance of the panhard rod issue. Remember that the P6 rear suspension is pretty unique! The suspension arms, links, tube etc have absolutely no role in transferring cornering forces into the body shell. All the cornering load goes up the driveshafts, into the diff and from there into the body. So that panhard rod has a much more significant role than you credit it with!
First of all, get someone to follow you as you drive down a dead straight road. It is just possible that the car could be crabbing slightly (similar to a live axle car with the axle not at right angles to the direction of travel), but more likely is that front and back wheels will be tracking true, but offset from each other.
That would imply that the diff is offset from the centre line of the car. Adjust the panhard rod until tracking returns to true.
You already have new rear springs, I know. But have you renewed the front ones, or had them out of the car yet? Your symptom also sounds a bit like the effect I got on Lucky when the front springs were of different lengths (one having sagged with age more than the other). That was my kicking off point when I found the height error between the spring seats in the shell at the rear. Are you sure you don't have something similar? It is quite easy to check - the only dismantling required is to release the tops of the rear dampers so that you can get at the underside of the spring seat.
Chris
I think we can now safely discount damper and suspension bushing issues as the cause of your odd handling. But I think you are way off beam with your analysis of the significance of the panhard rod issue. Remember that the P6 rear suspension is pretty unique! The suspension arms, links, tube etc have absolutely no role in transferring cornering forces into the body shell. All the cornering load goes up the driveshafts, into the diff and from there into the body. So that panhard rod has a much more significant role than you credit it with!
First of all, get someone to follow you as you drive down a dead straight road. It is just possible that the car could be crabbing slightly (similar to a live axle car with the axle not at right angles to the direction of travel), but more likely is that front and back wheels will be tracking true, but offset from each other.
That would imply that the diff is offset from the centre line of the car. Adjust the panhard rod until tracking returns to true.
You already have new rear springs, I know. But have you renewed the front ones, or had them out of the car yet? Your symptom also sounds a bit like the effect I got on Lucky when the front springs were of different lengths (one having sagged with age more than the other). That was my kicking off point when I found the height error between the spring seats in the shell at the rear. Are you sure you don't have something similar? It is quite easy to check - the only dismantling required is to release the tops of the rear dampers so that you can get at the underside of the spring seat.
Chris
Tor
Well-Known Member
Ponder, ponder, ponder... Yes I think that theory of mine might have been a bit weak. Like my brain-to-keyboard connection. It's the LH not the RH that sits low. But anyway. I'll get my mate to help look for crabbing motion. I foresee issues with motivating myself to measure the spring seats. Front springs are planned for renewal together with top link bushes.
Tor
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
The Rover is now my daily driver most of the time, and is behaving quite well. I'm going to leave for winter the job of replacing front springs and take the suspension saga to the next step with top link bushes and the rest of it.
Today however I came to a stuttering halt, which was gradual, just like when the need to pull the Pet Res knob arises. So, fuel related? Undid the carb inlet and sure enough, no fuel. The pump is on an override switch (a genuine Supermarine Spitfire compressor toggle, as it happens 8) ) which I flicked to produce a single spurt of fuel each time. Flicking the switch once a couple of seconds got me the final half mile home. Inspected the filter-and-regulator, an adjustable Malpassi unit, bypassing it and tried again. Pump has a live feed and is dead.
Biltema, Scandinavia's idea of Halford's, lists two puller units. The black one looks identical to the one I have, which is labelled Hüco. The silver one looks suspiciously like an unbranded Facet job, maybe a 'Silver Top'? I'm looking for reasons to go for that rather than replacing the one I have, which seems to be higher capacity (if not pressure). Anyway, 349 kroner equals some £38 so I think I'll not eBay this one and be sorted within an hour.
The Rover is now my daily driver most of the time, and is behaving quite well. I'm going to leave for winter the job of replacing front springs and take the suspension saga to the next step with top link bushes and the rest of it.
Today however I came to a stuttering halt, which was gradual, just like when the need to pull the Pet Res knob arises. So, fuel related? Undid the carb inlet and sure enough, no fuel. The pump is on an override switch (a genuine Supermarine Spitfire compressor toggle, as it happens 8) ) which I flicked to produce a single spurt of fuel each time. Flicking the switch once a couple of seconds got me the final half mile home. Inspected the filter-and-regulator, an adjustable Malpassi unit, bypassing it and tried again. Pump has a live feed and is dead.
Biltema, Scandinavia's idea of Halford's, lists two puller units. The black one looks identical to the one I have, which is labelled Hüco. The silver one looks suspiciously like an unbranded Facet job, maybe a 'Silver Top'? I'm looking for reasons to go for that rather than replacing the one I have, which seems to be higher capacity (if not pressure). Anyway, 349 kroner equals some £38 so I think I'll not eBay this one and be sorted within an hour.
unstable load
Well-Known Member
I have a Huco, and it's great.
Tor, if it's one of the SU type pumps, give it a thump with a calibrated buggering stick.
Sometimes they get stuck and need releasing.
Tor, if it's one of the SU type pumps, give it a thump with a calibrated buggering stick.
Sometimes they get stuck and need releasing.
JVY
Active Member
Is b**^&ng stick imperial or metric :?:unstable load said:I have a Huco, and it's great.
Tor, if it's one of the SU type pumps, give it a thump with a calibrated buggering stick.
Sometimes they get stuck and need releasing.
.I recently got "Huco'd" by Mr York and this is the link he gave me:
http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/index.html
unstable load
Well-Known Member
I have various sizes in both metric and standard format. Comes from workingJVY said:Is b**^&ng stick imperial or metric :?:
on American helicopters with French engines..... :twisted: