Finally a tidy 3500S!

Went for my EU inspection today. After an initial failure :( for lack of brake boost I got some help, fitted an old relief-valve piston (with, crucially, a soft, older seal) and the booster came on again. Then we had a pass, and I can legally drive my Rover again for the first time in eighteen months 8) The rebuilt PAS pump gives me slightly better assist (it's pretty light now!), but I've not got rid of the growl that comes when maneuvering. It sounds like it's coming from either the pressurised hose or somehow from the steering box. I'll try to bleed it next.

Changed the oil yesterday, for 20W 50 "classic" type mineral oil from Biltema (not unlike Halford's), made by Statoil and with more than 1000 ppm of zinc. There is a ticky tappet in the engine's RHS bank that's a little more muffled now. I'm leaving that for a 3.9 camshaft modification. I fitted a good brake pad for the one that was contaminated (thanks mrtask!) and set up the rear calipers again. I've tidied up the wiring to the electric fuel pump using crimp-on bullets with a bit of shrink hose and original Lucar connectors. Found two unused wires, one green/purple by the inner LHS headlamp, which must be the fog pickup, and a green/black of unknown origin. I can so far not spot it in the diagrams.

Oh, I almost forgot - the brakes guy, who knows the P6 well, shakes his head at the rear bleed nipple sitting below the fluid line port. You "never" get the air out of them as long as that's not changed around, he says. And he also shared a tip for bleeding the system, which is probably tandem-circuit specific... The union next to the booster has a pressure failure warning switch in it. This must come out and the moving thingy inside jammed using a pin before bleeding commences. Else one system will bleed but the other block. Which explains why we couldn't bleed the rears at all with either of the fronts having been done first. I'll let him sort my next fluid change. End of story.
 
Tor said:
Oh, I almost forgot - the brakes guy, who knows the P6 well, shakes his head at the rear bleed nipple sitting below the fluid line port. You "never" get the air out of them as long as that's not changed around, he says.

I'm so glad I wasn't told that nearly 40 years ago otherwise I might just have given up and never done any..... In theory the bleed nipple would be the upper one, but as we all know you'd never get at it, as it is I've never had problems bleeding them and getting all the air out, (single line systems) and most of the ones I did I bled them on my own. (No friends you see, it was a case of having to.....)

Good news on the pass though. (Even though the brakes weren't bled properly) :LOL:
 
DaveHerns said:
We need someone to swap the rear bleed nipple over and see if it makes any difference to the feel of the pedal

It won't make any difference, firstly because you never have any problems bleeding them out the way the bleed nipple is positioned as standard anyway, and secondly because shifting the nipple above the inlet pipe is a waste of time because it still isn't the highest point on the system, and it never will be, and if you can't get the air out because the nipple is below the pipe, after you've swapped them over you won't be able to get the air out because the nipple is below the flexible hoses, and the master cylinder.....
 
But doesn't the master cylinder being the highest point on the system mean that fluid drains through by gravity pushing the air with it ?
If the air worked it's own way out through the system by travelling back to the highest point , you'd never need to bleed brakes
 
DaveHerns said:
But doesn't the master cylinder being the highest point on the system mean that fluid drains through by gravity pushing the air with it ?
If the air worked it's own way out through the system by travelling back to the highest point , you'd never need to bleed brakes

Leave it for long enough and the air will find its way to the highest point. Bubbles always float in liquid, gravity can't do anything about that.
 
harveyp6 said:
Tor said:
Oh, I almost forgot - the brakes guy, who knows the P6 well, shakes his head at the rear bleed nipple sitting below the fluid line port. You "never" get the air out of them as long as that's not changed around, he says.

I'm so glad I wasn't told that nearly 40 years ago (...) as it is I've never had problems bleeding them and getting all the air out, (single line systems) and most of the ones I did I bled them on my own. (No friends you see, it was a case of having to.....)
:D
That should teach him to "never" say "never".

harveyp6 said:
Good news on the pass though. (Even though the brakes weren't bled properly) :LOL:
Quite! Thanks. I think.
 
Tinker day today, and time for a tune-up. Pulled off the airbox, admiring my satin black paint job of two years ago, and checked the carb synchronisation and throttle linkage. The latter had some play in it, which I cut back using tiny strips of 0.05" copper sheet round the pin stubs on both shafts plus thicker pins through the bush itself. Sorted, pending a new one.

The new vacuum advance unit I fitted in March was overdue, and makes a big difference in pickup.

Also found and fixed a leaky connection in the fuel tank breather pipe. Every time I filled up I couldn't open my windows for at 100+ kms for the stink. Very unpleasant. Fingers crossed it's gone now.

Next, the carbs were out by a bit. I've been running quite lean as well, noticeable through a lot of nipping and tugging coming on and off throttle (especially in low gears), a weak idle etc. The distributor securing bolt wasn't tight and I was getting heavy pinking. Retarded the timing to just clear the pinking, and reset the carbs as per the Rover manual. Noticed the LHS jet won't rise above flush as per the HIF6 adjustment procedure when I undo the mixture screw, while the RHS one does by quite a bit. I'm not sure what to do about that, apart from going for a rebuild kit - doing everything. But I went by the book for the rest of it. I seem to be getting the mixture relatively even, and the car shifts better than it did, but the lift pins tell me the mixture is still out: lift and hold, and the RPM goes up momentarily before dropping and threatening to cut. The RHS one cuts the engine altogether and I can't really seem to fix it. Fuel mileage is also not what it should be, at about 15l/100 km urban.
 
Tor said:
Noticed the LHS jet won't rise above flush as per the HIF6 adjustment procedure when I undo the mixture screw, while the RHS one does by quite a bit. I'm not sure what to do about that,

I wouldn't worry about it. In use, with the mixture set correctly, the top of the jet tube will never be sitting proud of the bridge anyway, it will always be below.
 
OK cheers Harvey, mind now at ease.

rockdemon said:
ah :) me being thick didnt note the 's' in the topic title....
Not implied! Just that different folks accept different running costs...
 
New progressive rear springs arrived, along with 21 lug nuts from Wins (one spare), so my Vitesse rims can finally be fitted with the original studs 8) But it's not my week. First of all I'll definitely have to jack the LHS lower D post as per custom for these wheels using 205/60s. No surprise though, and for the record they foul by a tiny margin compared to the Rostyles with their 205/70-14s. Secondly, I've a slow puncture in one wheel, maybe two, after spending good money fitting my S/H tyres to them. Thirdly, test-fitting them I snapped a wheel stud on the RH rear. Darn and bless, must be metal fatigue after years of wearing a very wobbly Rostyle. For various reasons I have a front hub with upright etc. in storage so I had a few studs. Smacked out the old one and replaced it, wheel can go on. Then I snapped a second one, LH front. Darn and bless it all. I just spent my spare nut and don't have the tools to drill out the remains in the two I just pulled off. A few more on order. Next, a touch of slip disc made itself known while skiing yesterday. That's a first :?

Anyhow. The flat surface of nut collar meeting flat face of the Vitesse rims seems to exert extra stress on the studs. I'm afraid to pull hard now. Recommended torque settings, anyone?
 
Tor said:
Recommended torque settings, anyone?

65 lb/ft on the Vitesse wheels with the SD1 studs n nuts.

I would use that for yours but would be a little worried that you have broken two already :shock:

Richard
 
New springs fitted, Vitesse wheels on, torqued to 66 lb/ft. New issues surface, but anyways. After having faffed about with saggy springs and soft shock settings since I got the car, I decided I would also turn up the Konis to a quarter-turn from max just to make sure I'd get a firm result to start with, and rather dial back if need be. And - waahey! :D Ride height now looks perfect, but more importantly the rear suspension is really taut. Body roll is reduced by leaps and bounds, and in terms of firmness it's in the same ball park as my 3 series Bimmer :shock: It's firmer than the front to be sure, and after some run-in time I'll probably turn back the shock rebound by a good bit and see how that affects everything. This mod and 205/60s on 6.5" Vitesse rims means the car is rather different to drive. I'm starting to like it a lot...

There is a drivetrain vibration covered in a separate thread that will need dealing with. I keep throwing new service parts at the car, hoping annoyances will go away, so too in this case. Two new propshaft UJs have been eBayed this morning.

To celebrate the sporting new stance of the car I reserved the Sunday for a spot of fettling - ie. first wash in 18 months. The wheels have been in storage for six years but they cleaned up very well - looks like they've been powder-coated in the not-too distant past. After this I went out to the coast with the camera to take a pic or two in the fading light.
 

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