Finally a tidy 3500S!

... and we have a runner :D

Struggled quite a lot bleeding the brakes manually. We eventually realised, through trial and error, that not only is it advisable to begin with the rear circuit but that any other way is, in our experience, impossible. The servo needs a full stroke to run fluid to the rear line, which it won't have if the front lines have been bled and closed off. The pedal firms up completely and there's not enough movement to pass fluid through the various components and into the line. We had to pump the brake pedal hard, fast and repeatedly to get fluid running to the rear line at all, with the front lines open. This is a dual-circuit ("tandem") system, so we could see when the fluid eventually entered the booster from the forward reservoir. And yes, I was tired and impatient from having taken on too many jobs at once to study the literature comprehensively for each one...

The polybushed rear suspension has come out *exactly* as I had hoped. I've yet to reset the panhard rod and I'll re-check the shocker settings too as it still has a bit of a sideways wag in certain situations. Front control arms have also helped a lot, so now I have a car that handles much better and displays quite a lot less body roll... During my two years of ownership the Hercules tyres seem to have hardened, so on wet tarmac two nights ago I got a bit naughty in roundabouts 8)

Having silenced the front hubs with new bearings I have made way for the various other hums, songs and low-pitched whines to be heard from elsewhere in the car. The gearbox clearly lives in a sing-songy world of its own (it also leaks quite well) but there's quite a bit of noise from the rear. Bum. Which means I'll be axle-standing the rear, running it in fourth and playing doctor-and-naughty-Rover with my stethoscope on the diff and wheel hubs.

Although the car looks all right she has plenty issues. A few more than I'd have liked. A medium-term fix to the bearing noise has been found, though: one used top-of-range Pioneer CD radio and brand new 250W 6x9"s for the apertures in the parcel shelf, for the princely sum of just over 60 pounds sterling.
 

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Tor, the axle stand/4th gear/stethoscope examination sounds scary. Have you got a heavily insured expendable mate to do that bit :LOL:


John.
 
John,

I see where you're going with this. I have a cousin who's a copper. I'll ask her to chock the fronts.
 
Tor, Ideal, just remove the bonnet, aluminium is easily dented, but I was thinking more of the hub/drive shaft/stethoscope high speed rotation combo causing ripped ears and possible strangulation, has your cousin a spare collegue? :LOL:

John.
 
Already spent her colleague setting up custom flat spots on my Hercules tyres last winter. I have to think. I know someone at the BMW dealership... :idea:
 
Wee update... Little has been done this autumn. The brakes people advised that the RHS rear was just out of reach for an MOT when they checked the system for air a while back, and that it either needed cleaning or adjusting. So I did both, tightening up both ratchets a little while at it. Easy job with the outer pad removed. There was oil contamination from the refit process on the RHS disc. I was relieved to see nothing to suggest a leak from the calipers. Fingers crossed. Knock on wood. Pray.

I had also brought about a deDion seal failure when at one point the tube was violently over-extended and twisted. I hadn't supported the elbows on both sides as I was fitting the whole shebang. Turns out the arresting clip snuck its way under the shim and tore up the LHS seal while the RHS seal just decided to leak in solidarity. Replaced the one and cleaned the other one, smeared the lot with grease inside and out and refitted, tweaking the clip ends so that they protrude properly. Now there's no groan and I is ready to apply for an MOT. Might slip a little bit of really gloopy oil in it later on if I feel lucky - what I had in there was Mobil 1 synth or something entirely unsuitable anyway - proof that being impatient just because it's late on a Saturday really doesn't work.

I've tried the brightest amber LED bulbs I could find to fit behind my red rear indicator lenses but the light is weak and I'll be looking for better ones.
 
The car has a cheap old toggle flip switch for the fuel pump override, and I've wanted something more fitting for that and for any future accessory. So... I received a little box labelled "Aircraft parts" last week and felt all funny inside. The two stub-nosed flip switches I thought looked perfect for my application. They are for the supercharger in a Spitfire, and the boost gauge in the background is a little bit of fun that I can use with my tuned turbo diesel to see how much overboost I'm getting. That's NOS for a DeHavilland Hornet... 8)

I'll be after one or two surrounds from the P6 HRW switch to re-label FUEL/OFF plus a couple of other tiny bits in the Wanted section.

Anyway, thought I'd share the fun...
 

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Just need to figure out how to get this bit in next....

url
 
OK so in the nearish future I'll replace all four road springs. Demetris' description of his experience with them has helped me decide to go for Ian Wilson's HDs for the rear. I like progressive action and a rear that doesn't sag so much with passengers onboard. Unladen ride height at the rear is half an inch low. Question is, what to do with the front? Mine has non-PAS springs with PAS retro-fitted. Spring action is, for lack of a better term, passive. Feels like they're clearly under-spec even with correct 'S' rears, so the car doesn't feel balanced.
 
Hi Tor

I think you already know my views on variable rate vs single rate rear springs - I'd go for single rate, Rover spec, heavy duties every time. But then if you finish up not liking the variable rate ones, changing the back springs isn't a huge undertaking.

What I can't remember is whether you have fitted the uprated front anti roll bar yet? If you have, then I am very surprised at your comment re the feel of the front end. If not then fit one before you go anywhere near the springs. Also use adjustable dampers at the front so that you can up the damping rate to your own favoured compromise between control and ride. You really do need to do these two things before you consider any change to front springs. You are likely to be astonished by the effect, and changing front springs is a bi of a faff ( :evil: ). You don't want to get it wrong and have to do it again.

The difference between manual and power steered front springs is unlikely to be the cause of your issue - I doubt very much that you'll be able to tell the difference.

Chris
 
Hi Chris,

The reason I want to change the fronts too is because they feel too weak in how they return after compression, not due to body roll - which is fairly low even on the stock anti-roll bar. If they're not inferior to the requirements of a PAS equipped car I think they've had it, as the car's got close to 200k kms on it anyway. I already have adjustable Konis and I had to crank the front ones up quite a bit to compensate for the "flat" response of the springs - sorry I can't describe it any better. As far as the front goes, the ride is poor. Springs are on the cards particularly because the front top link bushes are up for renewal - and I've a set of home made P6 front spring compressors on loan :D
 
OK so I'm one of those that think French classics with yellow headlamps look kinda special (like they're wearing secret-service shades), and enjoy the fact that you can clip-on just that look with some Lucas beam converters continental touring... What luck then, to find an eBay ad for two (!) NOS pairs at a fair price... Dropping by the garage with some near-new rear brake pads (which look great) I got from mrtask, I mocked up one of the pairs just to see... 8)
 

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Love them, I've always had a soft spot for the big old Citroens with the yellow headlights, shame they did away with them really.
 
In January I made contact with a previous owner in Sweden, where my car spent half its life. He could fill in a lot of blanks, which means I now have quite a comprehensive history file - while the exact mileage will remain a mystery. The pictures he sent me last week show the car's suspension perfectly even side to side - if a tad low at the rear. The next owner, who has since passed, converted the car to LHD and sold it on with a saggy left hand suspension. It might have something to do with him having been quite a large chap.

The photos were taken shortly after the car was resprayed, around 1986.
 

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Finally spent most of a day in the garage, overhauling the PAS pump and doing oddjobs. The pump has been leaky since I got the car and had a bit of a growl, so I reasoned to change the bearing too. Needed my suspension joint puller kit to get the old one off the axle, while the new bearing went on with a few taps of the hammer. The unit looked good, so nothing else to say about it apart from it being a fairly straight-forward if messy job - less involved than the brake booster anyway. Still, having a manual to refer to is a good idea. Catching the PAS fluid as the hoses come off is awkward, as is getting the pump out after the bolts are undone. But then, I'm working in a parking garage with substandard lighting :?


Was surprised to find the main bearing a dry one, held in place by an outer cover with the main bracket on top. Here's the new one.



Assembled, ready for refit.


Adjusting the routing of the high pressure hose was next. Unlike any other hose I've used this will hardly twist at all, only bend (a bit like a bicycle chain), so after having turned the union at the pump end 90 degrees to get better clearance, the hose started to buckle. In the end I found I could manage to twist a pair of collars half way up and that relieved the tension. I'll have to wait and see if the slight disturbance has triggered a leak or if the collars are there for that purpose.

Finally also fitted a new vacuum advance unit to the distributor. I had suspected the old one was intermittently faulty, stiff or whatnot, but as it turns out on removal I could hear my own breath entering the diaphragm when I sucked on the nipple, however Freudian that sounds, and so that's dead. It explains why I've never quite felt the car particularly sharp or responsive. New elbows on the vacuum pipe will also help, the carb end one had split badly.

Having had a pair of LEDs in the side lights and not loved them, I pulled a pair of interior spotlight bulbs from a scrapped E36 Bimmer last week that went in tonight. They fit fine, plus they're 10W and thus sufficiently brighter to make me happy.
 

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