No does not need to be exactly 45mm, I said circa 45 as I did not have one to hand. I just now unscrewed one from a box and have taken a pic for you. The end of this one is flatted a bit, so has maybe lost @ 0.5mm.
The over all length inc thread is circa 60mm.
Received a box of goodies from the U.K. today. I’ll tart up the cover and send off my spare speedo for calibration and a cable, and that should pretty much be the last of the bits organised. Oh, I also need an SD1 slave.
I am pretty sure that when my GSY101 arrived it looked the same as the slave I have on my V8 powered Defender. The LR part number is UKC8677L, but the LR part (as usual) is much cheaper. I did visually compare the SD1 part to an old dead LR cylinder I had on the shelf for rebuild, but didn't actually get the callipers out to check bore dimensions...
So I've hit a snag with my clutch kit, which was supplied to me with as fitting an SD1 application/P6 flywheel. But it has a 10.5" friction plate, and the pressure plate fouls inside the bell housing. Eventually it has dawned on me that I need a 9.5" kit. I want it to take a future bhp increase <250 bhp, so it's back to google.
Will do. I've also asked Clutchfix, who are willing to ship out a replacement 9.5" set(!) for nowt, for all the measurements so I can verify fitment before risking another dud. He doesn't even ask for a return of the kit I have. Quite impressed with that.
Edit: Does anyone have a photo of a 3500S flywheel less clutch to share, and also an SD1 one? I've mislaid my WM.
Today I fitted my replacement steering damper, brimming with Castrol 80w 90 and a splash of Lucas Stop Leak just for good measure. The pin assembly seemed damaged on my ‘new’ unit so I reused the old one (left in shot). I’m satisfied with the damping action - firm, smooth and no notchy action or free play. The arm was incorrectly fitted, probably out by one spline, and I’m fairly confident I’ll reach full lock both ways now. One side rod boot was holed, fortunately I had a good used one to hand.
I had taken out the heater for access, and was planning to swap the fan over from one I have sitting, but my box has rotted out underneath and has traces of leakage from the core so… I’ll fit the spare one so that it works for now. (Why did I never order that bloody foam…)
Been giving the heater box some rudimentary attention today (top looks great, the rest not so much), and managed to pry off and reuse some foam from the top flap on the bottom (floor channel) one. The others are mostly intact but ready to turn to dust. Pressure tested the replacement core to 1 bar, and that went well. But when I rotated it later on while moving it, water came out of the inner tank. Not taking it as a good sign. And the guy only tested it for like, a minute.
Also discovered that the heater to body seal is soaked with PAS fluid and has swelled. Might be one of the sources of my particular car stink, along with escaping coolant. And more, I’m sure. Not sure what to do about it, as I’ve no replacement to hand and not much to fashion something out of.
Let me look at the spare upper seal again…
RE THE OIL pump test hole - post #214, pic 3, centre hole of 3 is location of grub screw plug to remove and test pump.
Also on the throwout pivot , mine is 50mm(67mm overall) so I need to go out and find FRC7891, which should be correct, at 60mm overall. Wrong - should be UKC13 apparently , to get the 43mm length. One Ordered.
After I was sent the wrong clutch, the vendor supplied the following details about the one he reckons I should have instead. I've no flywheel to hand so can only count input shaft splines. Does this sound about right?
"Drive plate spring battery diameter 155mm (minimum recess in the flywheel) Friction lining is 162mm bore size
Number of splines 23
bolt pcd 270.00 mm (+/- -0.20)
3 x dowel positions on same pcd
max outside diameter for the cover 290.00mm"