Engine upgrade

rockdemon said:
Ah sorry! I don't know then...

No problem Rich , may be i'm being over cautious .
harveyp6 said:
If you haven't altered the pressure relief valve, and it wasn't stuck beforehand, then fitting the high volume kit won't make any difference. The kit increases the volume, not the pressure.

Hi Harvey , i put a new standard relief valve and spring in there , as advised in the kit instructions . So are you saying if the drill turns it and it's not binding up ( which it does , and it's not ! ) it should be o.k . Just concerned how low it pulls the drill down . Cold , new oil and new gears , maybe it's how it should be ?
 
How fast does your drill run ? If it's 1000rpm it's turning the oil pump as fast as the engine would at 2000rpm so I'd expect a fair bit of resistance I think that's right - dizzy and therefore oil pump turn at half engine speed

Filing the back of the casing flat and using a nut is what I was going to suggest but I am aware I am a cheapskate
 
Turn the ignition on, spin the oil pump and get someone to sit in the car, looking at the gauge, and tell you how much oil pressure you have. When you have oil pressure, there is no need to keep the pump spinning, you are only priming the system not lubricating the whole engine.

harveyp6 said:
stina said:
. I know i have oil pressure , I can hear it and feel it on the drill . I'm concerned i may have too much .

If you haven't altered the pressure relief valve, and it wasn't stuck beforehand, then fitting the high volume kit won't make any difference. The kit increases the volume, not the pressure.

Sorry Harvey, but I disagree. I fitted one of these kits to my old Monza Car and it certainly did increase the pressure.

If you are pushing more oil through the same gaps, then the pressure is bound to increase.

Richard
 
Surely though the relief valve limits the maximum pressure ?

Isn't the idea that the high volume means it gets closer to the relief valve pressure at lower rpm, where normally it would drop right down ?

Or should I keep my mouth shut :LOL:
 
quattro said:
If you are pushing more oil through the same gaps, then the pressure is bound to increase.

Richard

The ultimate pressure can't increase, if that were the case then the relief valve wouldn't be functioning. The pressure may be increased at any given rpm after fitting the kit, but it will never exceed the pressure that opens the relief valve.
 
And, in particular, you get more volume at low rpm, which is very important for the long term health of the engine - better cooling of pistons etc, more oil to the rocker gear and so on. But once the pressure relief valve setting is reached then the volume is limited by the size of passageways in the engine.

Chris
 
Stina, I was a bit surprised at how much load it put on the dril when I primed the pump in my engine so I think you're safe to start it. By the way, I used a normal electric drill with a lead not a battery powered one.
 
By the way, I used a normal electric drill with a lead not a battery powered one.

I used a battery powered one, but had to put it on the lowest gear/highest torque setting. It was new at the time...
 
Thanks for that guys , feel more confident now i've had a read through the last few posts . Will get her back together and fired up over the next few afternoons . Had to do the shopping today , was itching to get out there though .
Couple of pics of the rad fan and the thermo switch ready to go back in ( I know you wont like the mounting system Harvey , but the ties do have sleeves fitted through the fins to keep them from rubbing the matrix ) Spent a bit of time fitting new olives to the fuel lines/pump , and splodging a bit of black paint round the crossmember area . Was waiting for some feed back on the oil pump , i can crack on again now :D
 

Attachments

  • engine work 1 (1).jpg
    engine work 1 (1).jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 741
  • engine work 1 (2).jpg
    engine work 1 (2).jpg
    56.1 KB · Views: 741
Oooh! Getting to the exciting bit isn't it!

Well done that lass - like the tool chest just in view, matches your professionalism.

Chris
 
Just a cheepie Dave full of crap i've collected over the years , can normally find something in there or around the garage to get the job done though ! :D You need to see the mess just out of shot Chris then reconsider your comments :D I always end up with quite a clean up operation after one of these projects :D
Ps do you recognize the top hose Chris ? Been saving it for a special occasion !
 
Hi Guys , bit more progress . dizzy in fuel pump on , rad in connected up , Had to cut out top inside front valance , was prepared for this ( testriders thread iirc ? )
Cranked her over , oil light went out . Gotta put alternator back on and ready to fire up . Ran out of time .
Few pics , was a bit concerned putting the hacksaw into the valance , but needs must ! looks like it was always like it now it's done . Behind the grill any way .
 

Attachments

  • rad 1.jpg
    rad 1.jpg
    53.9 KB · Views: 699
  • rad3.jpg
    rad3.jpg
    64.2 KB · Views: 699
  • rad2.jpg
    rad2.jpg
    57.4 KB · Views: 699
  • rad.jpg
    rad.jpg
    51.3 KB · Views: 699
Hi all , up and running , sounds good ! Put the dizzy back in to spot on the marks i lined it up on when removing , let her warm up and put the timing light on and it was 10 deg dtdc , before it was 6 deg dtdc .With the cam running at half crank revs , does this mean the cam was 2 deg retarded due to the streached timing chain ? Any hoo , set it to 6 btdc .
Oil pressure was around 30 psi hot tickover , but when held at 2500 rpm it was above the 60 psi , not so good for a v8 i believe ? So in a moment of inspiration i took the new pressure relief spring out and compared it to the old one ( the new plunger slid out with it so not sticking ) the old spring was about 3/4 mm shorter and not quite as tensioned , so i put that back in with the new plunger . Fired her up and had just on the 60 psi at 2500 rpm so happier with that . Haven't road tested yet ran short of time . I know it'll get the oil hotter on a run , so should drop a little more . Was wondering if it still seems to high could i fit a second copper sealing washer between the nut and the pump body to take a little more pressure off the relief spring ???
Still got the engine driven fan on at the moment , got my tame mechanic coming to help wire it into the shunt properly , and bypass the ignition ballast while the dash is out , still running off the washer bottle , never been happy with that really !
Any hoo , left her out in a thunder storm to wash the dust off and chamoised her off after tea . Looking good :D
 
stina said:
Any hoo , left her out in a thunder storm to wash the dust off and chamoised her off after tea . Looking good :D

Noooooooooooooo all that good mechanical work and you've scraped a leather over the paint :wink:

Maybe it's just me who is particular about how I wash my cars.

Great job on the engine stina. You're an inspiration to us all :D

Dave
 
Hi Stina,

Great job there, really neat & stunning engine bay as is the whole car, peace of mind with the Kenlowe fitted, do you have any pic so of the whole car as I havent yet seen it on here.
My car used to shed it water out the rad once hot straight out the over flow, always had low raditor level so I went nf flea bay & bought an MGB V8 expansion tank & a 14" kenlow style fan but I've wired to a seperate manual switch, but with expansion tank fitted the level barely moves at all, if anything it keeps the block too cool, it doesn't reach normal once the car is hot & on a run, maybe change the thermostat, havent used the fan at all.
Cheers Damian
Hey Dave, I love my leather chamois,(I know spelt wrong) makes my car really shine 8)
sparkleP6.jpg
 
DamianZ28 said:
Hey Dave, I love my leather chamois,(I know spelt wrong) makes my car really shine 8)

You're cracking paint job is what makes the car shine Damian :D but that won't last long if you continue using a leather on it :(

Dave
 
Back
Top