Engine upgrade
- Thread starter stina
- Start date
stina
New Member
DaveHerns said:
Hmm with you Dave , sort of understand ! , but i'm gonna have to look at the wiring on my mates scrapper and try to work out what goes where , and where to tap into it . Still none the wiser as to how to do that , other than must be a big wire going into it from the battery , solenide , and i need to identify a big wire out of it ??? to tap into ? that way it will register on the ammeter ?
stina
New Member
O.k guys . moving on , i am still gathering bits , this is the latest . The same kit that Stan ( vaultsman ) used
Couple of questions , at the moment with every thing else standard , what is the best setting for the cam timing ? I know they were set at 0 degrees at the factory . this timing set is adjustable from -6 to +6 deg . I have read that advansing by 2 deg gives better low end torque with some modified engines , but is this still true with the standard 3.5 heads , cam etc ?
Also in the fitting instructions it advises to " degree-in " the cam first , i guess this involves finding a timing disc ( cheep on ebay , but are they universal ? ) and finding tdc . I don't have or want to invest in a dial gauge if i can avoid it .
what i don't understand is the need for this as the key way slots are marked and correspond to the degrees of advance , their is no adjustment other than that .
Any thoughts ?
Couple of questions , at the moment with every thing else standard , what is the best setting for the cam timing ? I know they were set at 0 degrees at the factory . this timing set is adjustable from -6 to +6 deg . I have read that advansing by 2 deg gives better low end torque with some modified engines , but is this still true with the standard 3.5 heads , cam etc ?
Also in the fitting instructions it advises to " degree-in " the cam first , i guess this involves finding a timing disc ( cheep on ebay , but are they universal ? ) and finding tdc . I don't have or want to invest in a dial gauge if i can avoid it .
what i don't understand is the need for this as the key way slots are marked and correspond to the degrees of advance , their is no adjustment other than that .
Any thoughts ?
Attachments
You need an old spark plug to find TDC.
Break off the ceramic bit and then fit a bolt through it with a lock nut, so that you can insert it into the head and it will act as a piston stop. make sure it isn't sharp on the end as it can scratch the piston.
Now slowly turn the engine by hand (take all of the plugs out first) until it stops against the bolt and then mark the front pulley where this is. Then turn the engine the other way until it stops again and mark the front pulley here as well.
TDC is mid way between these points.
Richard
Break off the ceramic bit and then fit a bolt through it with a lock nut, so that you can insert it into the head and it will act as a piston stop. make sure it isn't sharp on the end as it can scratch the piston.
Now slowly turn the engine by hand (take all of the plugs out first) until it stops against the bolt and then mark the front pulley where this is. Then turn the engine the other way until it stops again and mark the front pulley here as well.
TDC is mid way between these points.
Richard
testrider
Active Member
Those pulleys aren't verniers ie infinitely adjustable timing so you stuck with + or - 2º if you don't set it at TDC. There's lots of waffle about the inaccuracy of the timing marks and the woodruff key on the crank shaft, but mine was cock on TDC so I set the timing gears and camshaft to 0º.
Hi Stina,
Your new timing chain set looks like one from JP Performance, made in Australia too! My 4.6 when built up in 2007 was fitted with one. Since then the engine has covered 60,000 Miles (100,000km) and I am pleased to say is running beautifully. Infinitely more reliable when compared to the OEM nylon toothed set, especially being a double row design, steel gears and a true double row roller chain, not the Morse type as fitted to the original Rover ones which stretch terribly.
Have you selected a camshaft at this stage? I assume you'll fit both at the same time rather than installing the timing set and then fitting a new camshaft at a later date?
Ron.
Your new timing chain set looks like one from JP Performance, made in Australia too! My 4.6 when built up in 2007 was fitted with one. Since then the engine has covered 60,000 Miles (100,000km) and I am pleased to say is running beautifully. Infinitely more reliable when compared to the OEM nylon toothed set, especially being a double row design, steel gears and a true double row roller chain, not the Morse type as fitted to the original Rover ones which stretch terribly.
Have you selected a camshaft at this stage? I assume you'll fit both at the same time rather than installing the timing set and then fitting a new camshaft at a later date?
Ron.
stina
New Member
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Ron , No that would be the sensible thing to do but this is me
I want to do the upgrades in two stages , First the timing gears , uprated oil pump , and electric fan ( got all the bits apart from uprated oil pump , will order that tomorrow . ) Hoping to do that little lot next weekend . I will then be happy with the reliability side of things . Then get the cam , followers as and when funds allow and fit with my SD1 heads at a convenient time , over winter . Planning on 3.9 cam and new rocker gear . I know everyone will say it's a silly way round but it works for me financially , and i'll have the piece of mind while i'm getting the other bits together .
stina
stina
New Member
Hi all . Made a start , got the old girl all stripped down and spread all over the garage ! Got the new timing gears on .
Problem though , one of the oil pump cover bolts sheared on dismantling , sort of felt like it was going to ! Any hoo , that was yesterday about the time to knock it on the head for the day , wasn't too concerned , thought i'd drill it out easy today !!!
Filed it flat and punched it dead center , but i've let the drill run off center ( about 3mm into the casing ) I've given up on it at the minute to have a think . Not un salvadgeable yet but weighing up options .
Let someone have a go at it with more idea than me ( i feel a total t**t )
Or an SD1 cover on the bay at the moment , will my oil pump upgrade kit fit the SD1 cover ?
Double or , anyone got a timing cover for sale ?
Thought everything was going too well , was hoping to take her down the prom for the first show of the year tomorrow , won't have the same impact going in the old mans transit :cry:
No sniggering guys . I'm gutted , and feel useless , only helpful posts or ones that will cheer me up will be read
Problem though , one of the oil pump cover bolts sheared on dismantling , sort of felt like it was going to ! Any hoo , that was yesterday about the time to knock it on the head for the day , wasn't too concerned , thought i'd drill it out easy today !!!
Filed it flat and punched it dead center , but i've let the drill run off center ( about 3mm into the casing ) I've given up on it at the minute to have a think . Not un salvadgeable yet but weighing up options .
Let someone have a go at it with more idea than me ( i feel a total t**t
) Or an SD1 cover on the bay at the moment , will my oil pump upgrade kit fit the SD1 cover ?
Double or , anyone got a timing cover for sale ?
Thought everything was going too well , was hoping to take her down the prom for the first show of the year tomorrow , won't have the same impact going in the old mans transit :cry:
No sniggering guys . I'm gutted , and feel useless
, only helpful posts or ones that will cheer me up will be read Attachments
It's unusual for the oil pump bolts to shear. I assume it sheared flush as you resorted to drilling it out, as if any is left proud moles normally pull the broken bit out. The kits increase the depth of the gears to the same as the SD1 so there's no reason why they wouldn't fit into the SD1 cover, and you could avoid changing your dizzy drive gear, but I'd definitely check the running clearance if I did that. I've just sold my last P6 timing cover so no stock of those left here.