Engine time :)

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#1
Finally making a start on building a less noisy/tappy/clattery engine for Sleipnir.

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The engine came from Stan - a kind donation :)

I've just been cleaning off all the muck. The next stage will be to remove the cam and crank/pistons.

Is there any sort of retention for take the cam out, or are they just stiff to remove and need elbow grease?

I've picked up a NOS crankshaft, so need bearings and pistons rings, a new cam/tappets, along with gaskets and a rear rope seal.

I'm going to use the front cover off the current engine, as it already has steel gears and upgraded oil pump.

I have a NOS oil pump cover to go on.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#4
You have to remove all the lifters to remove the cam, if you are not going to change the shell bearings then support the cam all the way out so as not to drag the lobes over the shells. it will pull out very easily.
I would get an engine shop to measure the bores, only a little wear will mean a rebore, throwing new rings into worn bores is like throwing money away

Consider renewing all the core plugs, a leak later will be troublesome to fix.
Be careful on timing set choice, I bought an engine with a new double roller timing set and the chain was slacker than a used OEM one, it wusnt Cloyes, but the name escapes me.
Consider fitting proper valve stem seals onto your guides or changing to guides with tops machined to suit.
Edit

I looked up the timing set, it was J&P. Even emailed them for spec etc - they didn't want to know, took it off and threw it in the bin, wasn't even any point in selling it.
 

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#5
Thanks for that :) I'll be posting every little detail up here and looking for as much experience as possible because I have very little in this field... :)
 

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#6
THe timing chain on the engine that's in is new and is tight (much better than the one i took out) so hopefully that'll be good enough to go back on....
 

arthuy

Well-Known Member
#7
How are you going to clean the block?

I used nitromors to get the heave oil deposits though I am considering having my block ice blasted to bring it up like new. If there is somewhere near you it is worth looking at.
 

rockdemon

Administrator
Staff member
#8
Carb cleaner and a roll of paper towel has done a lot...

We have an engine machining place about 4 miles away who a neighbour used to work for. Going to take it to them to fully clean and measure bores i think? Then later will get them to machine heads.

Is it worth mchining the top of the block too? I dont know ! :)
 
#9
I overhauled a few RV8 and always left the top of the block untouched. You should check your valve guides and if not oke then buy new ones which already have the possibility to fit the modern valve stem seal like Cobraboy suggested. I think machining the old ones would cost more then replacing these for upgraded ones.
You could consider to fit a large capacity oil pump so the capacity will be identical to the SD1 engine.
If the engine has rope seals on the crankshaft it is useful to convert these to modern oil seals. V8 tuner sells kits for the front which work well and are easy to install. The rear would require machining of the block. I replaced the waterpump bolts for a set of SS ones as these can difficult to remove

Peter
 

unstable load

Well-Known Member
#12
Carb cleaner and a roll of paper towel has done a lot...

We have an engine machining place about 4 miles away who a neighbour used to work for. Going to take it to them to fully clean and measure bores i think? Then later will get them to machine heads.

Is it worth mchining the top of the block too? I dont know ! :)
The engine place will be able to check the deck for straightness when they do the bores.
I would have the block chemically cleaned by them, too. You get it back spotless and without mess and fuss on your part.
 
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