engine rebuild.

[whiterover]

Hi Everybody. I have started to rebuild my replacement engine, and have found that the crankshaft thrust face is very badly worn. I have located a new crankshaft but it is for an auto. does anyone know if there are differences? I was wondering about the flywheel mounting.
John.
Oh! I meant to say the motor is a 2200.

 

[harveyp6]

The cranks are the same, it's just the spigot bush that's different. (So in effect there's no such thing as an "auto" crank, just cranks that come out of auto cars.) Same thing applies to V8's.

 

[whiterover]

The cranks are the same, it's just the spigot bush that's different. (So in effect there's no such thing as an "auto" crank, just cranks that come out of auto cars.) Same thing applies to V8's.

Thanks for the info.
I will buy the crankshaft, and then remove the insert (spigot), then I will have a new crankshaft to fit. I have also found new Plus ten thou pistons and standard main shells. Now am hunting for standard big end shells. Looking forward to the rebuild.

 

[j_radcliffe]

You might like to get in touch with Custom Spares in Brewster NY. I had heard that they were in the process of getting standard size main bearing and big end re-manufactured in Israel. I do not know if this has happened yet.

http://www.customsparesltd.com/productsByPart.html

Your other option could be to get the big ends on the crank ground, 10 or 20 thou undersize, and then pick up one of the sets of big end bearing which are on sale on ebay right now. You kind of have an option to get the mains reground as well, buy undersize main bearing to keep everything the same, and then sell the standard mains which you have. Standard size mains are getting a bit rare these day so they should move. If you do just get the big ends of the crank ground, then make a note with your records for the car. That way if someone rebuilds the motor again in 20 years time, there will be fewer surprises.

What suffix is your block. The main bearings did change after 1965, and if you use the earlier ones in the later motor, then the crank will soon sieze. I would not recommend later bearing in an early block either.


James.

 

[whiterover]

Hi Thanks for that. The engine rebuild is on hold at this time, as one of the half shaft universals failed. So while that was being attended to, I fitted the series two diff. To do that was part of the long term plan anyway. It seemed a good idea while Rover was up high on axel stands. I had to take a day of from doing this as while I was transfering the calipers the diff fell on my foot, didn't damage the diff.
John.

 

[KiwiRover]

Ouch! Glad the diff is alright though.

Sorry John, hope you're alright too of course. :wink:

 

[darth sidious]

The cranks are the same, it's just the spigot bush that's different. (So in effect there's no such thing as an "auto" crank, just cranks that come out of auto cars.) Same thing applies to V8's.

Thanks for the info.
I will buy the crankshaft, and then remove the insert (spigot), then I will have a new crankshaft to fit. I have also found new Plus ten thou pistons and standard main shells. Now am hunting for standard big end shells. Looking forward to the rebuild.

Unless my memory is playing tricks on me, isn't removing the spigot a bit of challenge? (unless you happen to be the incredible hulk, superman, or a gorilla, of course! )

 

[harveyp6]

Unless my memory is playing tricks on me, isn't removing the spigot a bit of challenge?

They can be, but eventually they will always come out. Auto ones are probably the more difficult, especially when the flexplate has gone which chews them up making it even more difficult. That was when I did most of the ones I did, that and engine changes from auto to manual.

 

[darth sidious]

Unless my memory is playing tricks on me, isn't removing the spigot a bit of challenge?

They can be, but eventually they will always come out. Auto ones are probably the more difficult, especially when the flexplate has gone which chews them up making it even more difficult. That was when I did most of the ones I did, that and engine changes from auto to manual.

Cheers matey!

 

[Willy Eckerslyke]

One trick is to fill it with grease and then hammer in an old input shaft. The spigot bush gets forced out by the hydraulic action of the grease which has nowhere else to go.

 

[harveyp6]

One trick is to fill it with grease and then hammer in an old input shaft. The spigot bush gets forced out by the hydraulic action of the grease which has nowhere else to go.

That's the way I've always done the manual ones but it won't normally work with the autos. Another problem is that the 1st motion shaft has a flat surface about 1/8" wide along the length of it which gives the grease an escape route, so machining up a round bar the correct size would be better. You could use one of the jacking pins you're too afraid to use to support the car....