Engine out.

On the shim issue, I’ve been there with loose bucket. But not loose enough to fit my thinnest feeler. In my case I assumed it was 0.001” and used that as a starting point. If it’s still out of spec at least you can now measure it. I know it’s a pain to pull the camshaft again, but it’ll be the last time.
 
I cheated with the zero clearance issue. I cut down a camshaft to get a section of just two lobes, and held that down into the bearings and worked until I had a close to the required clearance. Saves bolting the camshaft in and out every time. It's obviously not 100% accurate, but it gets you close enough that you can normally set the clearance in one go when you bolt in the camshaft, with zero clearance sometimes you can end up in and out with the camshaft multiple times.
 
Thanks for that, am I right in thinking that the only way to check the running clearance is to trial fit it?.
o
 
harveyp6 said:
I cheated with the zero clearance issue. I cut down a camshaft to get a section of just two lobes, and held that down into the bearings and worked until I had a close to the required clearance. Saves bolting the camshaft in and out every time. It's obviously not 100% accurate, but it gets you close enough that you can normally set the clearance in one go when you bolt in the camshaft, with zero clearance sometimes you can end up in and out with the camshaft multiple times.
Click to expand...

There was a similar wrinkle with the BL 'O' series engine, where the cam cover was the top half of the bearing caps. You remove all the buckets, then put one in, lay the camshaft in and hold it down then measure the one desired valve to obtain the clearance, then remove it, then onto the next one. Which means you can do it on the bench instead of bent over in the engine bay.
 
Steve C said:
Thanks for that, am I right in thinking that the only way to check the running clearance is to trial fit it?.
o
Click to expand...

Use a clutch aligner that fits inside the spigot bearing closely. Put as many feelers gauges as you can in between them. Note the thickness of the feelers gauges.
Measure the clutch aligner, measure the first motion shaft. If the FMS is smaller than the aligner, add that difference to the sum of the feeler gauges. That figure needs to be between 5 and 8 thou.
If the FMS is bigger, then you need to ream out the spigot so that you can get a 5 to 8 thou running clearance

I think...... :LOL:
 
colnerov said:
There was a similar wrinkle with the BL 'O' series engine, where the cam cover was the top half of the bearing caps. You remove all the buckets, then put one in, lay the camshaft in and hold it down then measure the one desired valve to obtain the clearance, then remove it, then onto the next one. Which means you can do it on the bench instead of bent over in the engine bay.
Click to expand...

There were Churchill tools to hold the camshaft down in place, but most people didn't have those, and your method works just as well. Not a bad engine the "O" series. I only worked on a couple though.
 
harveyp6 said:
There were Churchill tools to hold the camshaft down in place, but most people didn't have those, and your method works just as well. Not a bad engine the "O" series. I only worked on a couple though.
Click to expand...
I have a vague memory of certain O series applications requiring 2000 rpm for setting ignition timing. The exhaust manifolds on 2000 SD1s would glow red hot.
 
Hi, bit worried about the spigot bearing, new bearing straight out of box slipped over and rotated nicely on the FMS I soaked it in oil for 24 hours, as per advice, then in the freezer for 24 hours, managed to fit the bearing ( very tight, had to use a light weight hammer to gently tap it in).

I dont have a spare FMS, and the clutch aligner I have is only a universal one which holds the plate to the cover, I have looked every where to get a correct rover alignment tool with out any luck.

I have measured the FMS at 19.17mm and the best I can measured the internal bearing as 18.46, this obviously is no good, the only way I can see to check the clearance is to try and fit the box, when you say ream out the spigot,do you mean run a fine file around it.

Regards Steve.
 
You use the spigot of the clutch aligner, and measure the FMS on your gearbox. If you have a micrometer and feeler gauges you have everything you need. I have no idea what metric measurements mean
 
Had to revert to the heavy lifting method of trial fitting, offered the box up 5 times between reaming out a small amount of material, and finally the FMS slipped in nice and smoothly, removed the box and removed a very small amount of material just to allow a bit of clearance ( estimated), back on with the box, bolted up using the bell housing aligning bolts, and the FMS seems to rotate nice and smoothly with no dragging.

As I dont have a correct alignment tool, made my own using a large 4 inch long bolt, wound insulating tape around to fit the bearing and more further back to fit the clutch plate, again trial fit and all ok,

It may be a bit rough and ready, but seemed to work ok.

Regards Steve.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top