Engine mounts (4-cyl)

#42
Demetris said: These are gearbox mountings from a Mk2 Golf

Hello Demetris,

I live in Cyprus and often find sourcing parts difficult for my 2200 SC (fitted into a 1973 2000 body).

These are my engine mounts:



As you can see, the mount with the larger bolt (which is nearside and which offside, please?) is kaput :!:

Please Demetris, would two of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gearbox-Engin ... 0714891185

be a correct replacement :?:

Best regards,

Ray
 
#43
Don't know if this helps but i fitted these to my 2200TC recently. I bought from this seller:-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Mount- ... 832wt_1379

Parts where FEBI-BILSTEIN brand which are, I am informed by a mate into VW's, a VW OEM. VW Part number is 191199381 / 191199381A use this number in any ebay/google search.

If you look at the photo the mount has a washer which is held in place by two spreader 'ears',. When I compared the new mounts with the old there was about 5mm height difference; the new mounts would have the engine sit 5mm lower. I filed the ears flush with the washer and turned up some 5mm spacers ( though you could use washers ) to get the engine to sit at the same height as before to avoid any problems.

Had no problems and a good result, made a big difference. A big thanks to Demetris!

Pat
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
#44
Ray, it seems that both mounts have failed, the one on the left is more impressive, but also on the right one it is obvious that the inner metal tube has been separated from the rubber, and it is just the metal flange that is resting on the rubber lip. Also the thinner bolt is not standard, probably someone in the past fitted whatever into this mount...

Anyway, the link on the ebay parts looks correct, and you could also use the link provided by Pat above if you like, or even pop down to your local VAG parts shop, with photos or the part numbers that were posted by Pat.

With your old mounts being so bad, be prepared for a huge difference in engine smoothness.
 
#45
Pat & Demetris,

Thank you very much. I did not really look at the mounts until after reading Demetris' post. I have stripped down my gearbox completely and replaced all four bearings, but I'm probably going to find that most of the whining traction noise was due to these mounts and the consequent misalignment of my drivetrain!

Best regards,

Ray
 
#46
Demetris said:
Also the thinner bolt is not standard, probably someone in the past fitted whatever into this mount...
Not so fast. For series 1 SC & Auto cars, the RH bolt is 1/2 inch, the LH is 3/8. On TCs, both are 3/8 inch bolts.

Yours
Vern
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
#47
Vern Klukas said:
Demetris said:
Also the thinner bolt is not standard, probably someone in the past fitted whatever into this mount...
Not so fast. For series 1 SC & Auto cars, the RH bolt is 1/2 inch, the LH is 3/8. On TCs, both are 3/8 inch bolts.

Yours
Vern
Thanks for the correction Vern.
Any ideas on the reasons behind this peculiarity?
 
#48
Demetris said:
Vern Klukas said:
Demetris said:
Also the thinner bolt is not standard, probably someone in the past fitted whatever into this mount...
Not so fast. For series 1 SC & Auto cars, the RH bolt is 1/2 inch, the LH is 3/8. On TCs, both are 3/8 inch bolts.

Yours
Vern
Thanks for the correction Vern.
Any ideas on the reasons behind this peculiarity?
I wish I knew. It seems to be one of the oddities of the 4 cyl cars. One speculation is the big bolt located one side and the small bolt allowed some movement for aligning the engine & gearbox on the rear mounts, but it's just a guess. Even weirder, I've paid attention while parting some cars out and have found big/little pairs in TCs and little/little pairs in SC cars apparently from the factory.

Yours
Vern
 
#49
I'm about to replace my old engine mounts with the VW ones. But there's a hight difference, the new ones are about 7-10 mm higher. I suppose the old ones are a bit compressed because of age and wear, so the difference should'nt be that much if a compared with a NOS. What do you think, can the hight difference be a problem?
 

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#50
The relative height of the mountings is not what's important. Sit each mounting in the hole in the baseunit and measure the height to the top face of the mounting.Or measure from the flange to the top of each. You'll need to open the hole in the baseunit a tad for the new mounts. IIRC the vw mounting is lower by about 4mm. I ended up turning up a couple of spacers. The height difference may not make any difference in praxtice but its best to set it up the same.
 
#51
These two pictures show the difference when the mounts are placed in the base unit. It seems like the new one is about 5-6 mm higher than the old one. The new seems to fit perfectly in the base unit hole without opening it up.
 

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#53
Sdibblers: I haven't installed the mounts or the engine yet, so I have no experience in if there will be any noticeable difference. But I hope it will; the other posts in this thread say it will be a positive effect.
 

Demetris

Well-Known Member
#54
Cooper99 said:
I'm about to replace my old engine mounts with the VW ones. But there's a hight difference, the new ones are about 7-10 mm higher. I suppose the old ones are a bit compressed because of age and wear, so the difference should'nt be that much if a compared with a NOS. What do you think, can the hight difference be a problem?
As far as i can see the mounts that you bought are a little different in design from the ones that i am using. They seem to be slightly taller. However, as you say with the engine weight on the mounts the difference will be less. You should take care to align properly the engine / gearbox according to the instructions in the factory workshop manual. With the engine sitting slightly higher, in order to centralise the transverse rod in the snub rubber of the gearbox tail, the engine / gearbox should lean a little more towards the rear. However, as these differences appear to be within the tolerences of a new vs old standard mounting, i doubt that the difference in the angle that will see the propeler shaft universal joints will be noticeable.
 
#55
Fitted them in my car last year when I had the engine and box out. Mine were tired. New ones are very good no noise or vibration. A great find by Demetris. Well worth doing if you have the time or opportunity like I did. They're not expensive.
 
#57
Those mounts pictured are identical to the ones I fitted, with no need to open up the holes at all. All I did was grind off the little tabs you can see sticking up from the mounts. As they were fitted to a car I was returning to the road for the first time, I can't say whether they're an improvement or not. The whole car feels tighter than my old one, but that's probably down to a much lower mileage and fewer unsympathetic owners.
 
#60
I've just done this upgrade to my 2000TC. It's a substantial improvement, so many thanks for working it out Demetris. I did mine with the motor in situ. I didn't think it would be feasible to fit the new mounts with the engine brackets in place, firstly as I didn't think the motor could be jacked high enough, and secondly, as access to the holes in the subframe for filing them out would be hindered by the brackets, so I did the job by removing the brackets. Yes, inlet and exhaust manifolds need to be removed before the bracket on that side can be removed. Apart from that, that side of the motor was plain sailing. The other side of the motor was trickier than it looked, as both oil feed pipes to the motor had to be unbolted and the hoses moved so that the bottom bracket bolt could be accessed. Then I deemed it advisable to bolt them back into place before doing any filing in that vicinity! The job did score a bit highly on the pain in the arse-o-meter, but was well worthwhile. In my case, the improvement at idle was minor, but the improvement with revs and speed quite significant. I now find myself letting the motor rev out a bit more before changing gear, which makes the car seem quite a bit quicker. And yes, other noises become more noticeable, in my case, tyre noise coming through the bulkhead via the horizontal coil springs. As a slightly unrelated aside, I fitted my car with the 3.02 diff from a V8 car, replacing the original 3.54, and I recommend this to anyone who does no towing or climbing of mountains fully loaded. The car is a little slower off the mark, but winds out more nicely through the gears, so is no slower overall, and revs at 100kph are dropped from 3100 to 2700.
 
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