Engine cuts out when hot

as I had HIFs already on my car, my decision to overhaul them was easier. Had made some search on the net and here you will quickly find some helpful advices on Volvo forums or Volvo sites from hardcore users because they used the same SU models over the years. It´s like Ron and Harvey say, HIF is preferred also especially for the jet sealing and adjustment on HS which obviously requires guys who are used to work with SUs. If you could get a pair and it´s complete (it´s easy to check if they are complete, take a manual from the internet and compare, they do not have much levers etc), I would take those.
I have ordered a service kit from Burlen (together witch some richer needles as I have made some mods), but before carrying out this work (never done before), I had given away the carbs for blasting with special granulate. They look like new, you just have to clean everything carefully afterwards, but you have to dismantle them anyway. The pics from the Burlen manuals are :confused:, so look for better/larger illustrations on the net, you will need them when adjusting jet heights, float adjustment. Polish the dashpots also and you will finally very happy when everything is back in the engine bay.
Before you start dismantling, make photos from each carb from every side and do not mix the ID-tags (the small tags at on of the dashpot screws). Separate each carb, when working on them one after the other (means, do not dismantle both together, that´s for the pro´s).
BTW, I have also bought adjustable rods (short one from manifold to first carb and larger one for connection of the two carbs), it´s now more precise and final synchro is easier. And it looks better.
 
It is worth checking that the hose from the tower to the radiator is WATER hose and not fuel hose. People commonly replace that pipe with fuel hose as small diameter water hose is hard to find but they are a completely different rubber and the hot water destroys the inside of the hose over time leading to poor flow, holes and blockages
 
the HS6 has seperate float bowls. On the non-emission control cars the breather/overflow pipes point outward then go down to the front of the engine and end in an open pipe below it. On the emission cars the pipes come out the inside and join in a T intersection that goes to the carbon tank. You can fit one engine to the other car by swapping the bowl lids left to right but doing this requires the float height to be reset and it can cause the problem you are having as the hinge point is also changed and they are much more sensitive to back/forward inertia of the car.
 
hi my v8 rover p6 has been running great up until now she now has trouble starting and she keeps losing revs in drive and in neutral ,could this be the rotary arm or carbs ? as oil pressure is good as with the temparature .
 
hi my v8 rover p6 has been running great up until now she now has trouble starting and she keeps losing revs in drive and in neutral ,could this be the rotary arm or carbs ? as oil pressure is good as with the temparature .
Hi have you checked points gap?
 
Hi guys brandy when at temperature keeps stalling thats on normal idle she doesthe same when in drive she dies down and i have to keep starting her up ? but when driving shes brilliant no probs its the idling issues i have and i can smell a little wiff of fuel and a bit of black smoke now and again could she berunning too rich or intake hose leaking air or doesshe need a thourogh tune up as when engine went in shes been run as never had a tuneup is that the way to go?

Many thanks
Mark.
 
black smoke is overfuelling usually... Can be down to sticky floats or over fuelling electric pump without regulator. The smell of petrol means theres probably something coming out of the overflow so i think you have one of these issues.

If you're going to get someone to give it a tune up get them to have a look. Mine has a huco pump and i had to install a malpassi regulator to stop similar symptoms. (Do not use sytec regulators - they disintegrate and cause potential fires.)
 
black smoke is overfuelling usually... Can be down to sticky floats or over fuelling electric pump without regulator. The smell of petrol means theres probably something coming out of the overflow so i think you have one of these issues.

If you're going to get someone to give it a tune up get them to have a look. Mine has a huco pump and i had to install a malpassi regulator to stop similar symptoms. (Do not use sytec regulators - they disintegrate and cause potential fires.)


Many thanks , think a full engine tune and service looks the way to go .
 
OK - just make sure that whoever is doing it knows their' way around it and knows about the fuel pump over pressure issue if you have an electric pump. You're somewhere Bristol way from memory? I heard there was a guy, was it Paul in Bristol or I guess Colin Gould who are closest?
 
Im in basing stoke little village just outside got a guy coming over on wednesday to have a look hes done a fair bit of work on her and hes old school classics hoping he can cure the problem nothing worse when out on the road and you have to keep putting her in neutral to start her up.
 
think my carbs need tuning as when warm the car idles to a halt whilst in drive could be induction pipe got Ron the classic mechanic over thursday .so hopefull should find out the problem apart from that she starts and runs brilliantly .
 
You would think that after owning P6bs for forty years I would have learned that cause of erratic running, stalling and refusing to move when hot. Well there’s one born every day and I only read about it when I dicovered and joined this forum last week. It is something that has bugged my car for years, causing me to not use it for fear of getting stuck somewhere. As soon as I had read about it I rushed to my car and pulle the pipe off and yes, it was blocked. It is now running beautifully again.

Want to hear the funny part? Some years ago I flushed the radiator. To stop water running from that stub pipe, I made a little tapered bung and pushed it in there. When I refitted the radiator, I pushed that pipe over the stub, bung and all. DUH!

Anyway, I owe you all a debt of gratitude for brining this to my attention.
 
We all have those moments!

Which pipe are you referring to, Ian?

I assume this is the inlet manifold - radiator pipe. I cleaned out a blockage on 'Hazel' amongst other things & she's now running as cool as I've ever known :) rather than getting into the red at every opportunity.
 
Phil please accept my apologies for not replying before but I have been having more problems with myself than with the Old Lady. The pipe is the thin one from the carb tower to the radiator header tank. All the best for 2019 to you and everyone.
 
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